Best no fuss drill bits for making easy holes for 1/4 and 3/16th rod stock?

rickmenefee said:
Tapered pin reamers
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This piece of advise has saved me from pulling out all of my hair.

I also drill holes in several steps gradually stepping up to a numbered drill bit slightly undersized. The ream to final size. Then a quick couple of turns of the tapered pin reamer by hand to give the pin room to expand when peening. This is a great tip for ebony.. And the final cut drill bits last much longer since they are just finishing the work.

I also agree with backing the piece of wood you are cutting with a scrap piece. It keeps the exit hole from splintering.
Nathan
 
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butcher_block said:
i have been doing it wrong for years i use 1/8 for 1/8 and 3/16 for 3/6 only now and then do i get a hole to tight. i peck my holes out on a mini mill with cobalt bits. 9 out of 10 times in stablized wood (now if i was peening pins in 1/8 inch thick wood that might be a problem)
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Harner, I was thinking the same thing. OP, your pin stock is oversize almost always. Go slow, use quality bits (like Norseman) and learn how to drill holes.

Mic your pin stock. If it's over size, chick it in the drill press and sand out down a bit.

Fixed blade holes aren't rocket science. Folders are a whole lot more finiky, but fixed are fairly straight forward.

Do yourself a favor, get a few really good bits. Norseman or similar, not Irwin or Dewalt or other department hardware store cheapies. My 1/4" norseman connected to a cheap drill press punched 24+ 2" deep holes in unhardened A2 and still asked for more. Good bits are worth the price of admission.
 
The issue isn't what size to use for the hole...it is what size to use for the pin. Pin diameter varies a lot more than one would think. All sizes on flat and round things is "nominal" unless the item is labeled "precision ground".

Either measure carefully, or make a test hole in some scarp ( which is what I do).

The rules are:
Sharp bits !
Proper bits...wood bits have a different angle than steel bits. You can use the "universal" bits from the hardware store, but if you want a better hole, use the bit made for the material.
Clean holes - use a backing board. Light pressure in...light pressure out.
Check your drill press for alignment ( 90° between the bit and the table). This is the number one reason holes are sloppy and not round. You can align your drill press with a 12" piece of scrap 1/4" rod.
Proper bit size - usually about 50 thousandths over the pin size. Use the letter or number needed to make a good slip fit. It shouldn't bind, nor should it have any slop.
Obviously, where tolerances and concentricity is important, use a reamer of the required size. This isn't normally needed on pin holes, though.
 
Marko3 said:
If you blowing out the holes on your stabilized wood ... When you drill in to it make sure it is on top of another piece of wood..
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Bingo! That's also called a backer board.

I'd try quality brad-point bits, like Fuller, and keep them sharp.
 
F's for 1/4" #30 for an 1/8" and I thinks its a W for a 3/8" for my Mosaic, Thong. & Pin stocks. Tape on the back and having your wood on top of a backing piece of wood helps too as mentioned.

I use a lot of Loveless style bolts and buy the step drill right from supplier at the same time.

I also have an old wooden block that I've drilled into with each of these drill bits that is also marked. #30, F etc..

I put each one back in the correct size hole in the block after each use. The size, number ,letters can wear off over time so that way I don't get them mixed up with the pile and boxes of other drill bits I have.
 
If you want some good drill bits, go with Norseman. There are some great deals to be had on Norseman products but I don't want to post it here and get reprimanded.
 
Second the backer board suggestion (piece of wood on the bottom.) Another thing is to make sure the bit is SHARP.

For wood, I'd suggest a good brad-point bit. Fuller makes quality bits.

If there's a Woodcraft or Rockler store near you, go check it out. They can hook you up with wood turning experts. Experienced pen-turners know all about boring stabilized blanks. Blowout is very easy with pen blanks since you're drilling a 7mm hole through the end grain. I've turned a few but am by no means an expert.

Whatever you get, buy quality, and don't be toted to go to Harbor Freight!
 
Norseman bits are great. Run your press as slow as it goes and use plenty of feed pressure, you want to see metal being removed when you press down.

F bit (1/4" hardware)

#30 bit (1/8" hardware)

Those sizes are a slip fit and will not show a glue gap when done correctly. Pins and bit sizes will vary but over 100's of knives I have never had a problem with sizing yet. Remember after heat treat sometimes a hole will need to be cleaned up... usually by running the same size bit through the hole to remove any oil crud, decarb, etc.
 
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