Best non-stainless steel for EDC?

Rick Haney Design

Rick Haney Design

Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Messages
518
I'm doing a poll,I primarally use CPM S-30V,ATS-34,20CV,Trying Sandvik stainless here of late for my tactical designs.

My question is,What non stainless steel do you like for EDC folder blades?
CPM 3V looks good,Wear resistance,Toughness.

For folders,Wear resistance seems to be paramount for EDC blade.Toughness not as much.Explain the best you can, Why you think your choice of steel is best.Most of my folders are 3.5" to 4" blades.

Your input will be greatly appreciated.:D
 
3V certainly is a great steel. Possibly one of the best at balancing toughness with wear resistance. Bailey Bradshaw has used it in many of his folders with great success for some time now. If you do decide to use this steel, however, I would highly suggest you make your customers aware of the somewhat unique manner in which this steel corrodes. As you may be aware, 3V has a tendency to pit deeply, and pit far more quickly than other traditional non-stainless steels which, in similar conditions, might only accumulate some surface rust or develop a patina.
 
I use A2 which is a tool steel with some chrome, the chrome is about 6% which prevents it from rusting but will stain in some applications. I have made some folders for my self and customs for customers that understand the corrosion of steel out of 1095 but would not turn the average person loose with 1095. A2 is air hardening which you can plate quench or send out.
 
Looks like the can of worms will get spilled here. Heck why not, time for a slight debate amongest friends. I will throw Vasco wear and D2 into the pot any questions about D2 ,call Doctor D2.
 
Hopefully this will be a open discussion.:confused:

Getting feedback from all types of makers on any subject is what makes these forums so valuable.;)
 
Just one other thought on folders, if there is rust damage there may be places that cannot be reached for cleaning on a folder. This is why I use A2 so the the internals will be more difficult to damage, not imposible but more difficult.
 
D2, but not all D2 is the same, there is a lot of variation in HT.

D2, austenitized 40 min or more, rapid quench (plates or slow oil), with cryo as part of the quench (no snap temper) and tempered to 62 at low temperature, minimizing excessive chromium gobbling carbide formation. Surprisingly good fine edge stability this way, try it, you'll like it. Cuts things like plastic, cardboard and paper well due to the large carbides, and a strong roll resistant edge. Resists rust from sweat. Not too brittle, even at this relatively high hardness and minimal RA. Good qualities for a small precision cutter, which pocket knives tend to be. Easy tree topping edge.

I've carried one I made for a long time without a spec of rust. Not to bad to sharpen.
 
I have heard good things about A2 but havent never used it. Can somebody tell me what the HT recipe is? Cryo required? What is the best hardness for a slip joint? It makes good spring steel too I presume? Spring temper? Please spill some of your secrets for this steel.

Good thread here.
 
Taken from crucibles data book, as quenched Rc 64, 400degrees = 61RC
1100 degrees = 51 Rc, maybe try 1150 and see if it Rc's out between
48-50. It also states that it may benefit from cryo(A2). I beleive Dr D2
once said give a guy that looks sloppy in a Tux a D2 knife and he'll rust it
Ken.
 
My blades are a little thin on the front edge so I go a little soft 56-58 that way I dont worry about being too brittle. I have Paul Bos do the HT and he does the springs as well. From what I can see most of these knives hold a good edge, My friends have some and I keep asking to resharpen and they say its fine.

I have done my own HT for fixed blades and its not too difficult, ramp up to 1250 hold a little while and then to 1750. The key is a good soak but 20 minutes seems to be fine. The great part is the air quench or plate quench you can do alot of straighting. I temper twice for 2 hours at 400f. I dont do cyro. Here is the lable off the steel package

steel005.jpg
 
Wow Thanks Ken and Patrick.
I like to buy steel that has a label. Thats what I like about O-1 steel also.
I'm going to try some A2 for a couple blades.
You guys like it OK?
Bruce
 
This steel has been great to work with, the flat grind is a real luxury. I really like the results and the performance of the steel. I have done belt and mirror finish and both work fine. I took a 440c blade and a A2 on a ocean kayak trip, carried each one day and made sure they got wet during the day several times. There really was not much difference in the corrosion, both has some pitting and discoloration. I am sure that over a longer period the 440c would hold up better but with good care the A2 will work in most environments.
 
Pat,You have convinced me to try some A2.:D400 X2 = 60 to 61 RC on the temper.I should be able to get it locally from a specialty tool steel company.If not,Where can you order A2 from?For folders I like to start with .140 to .160 thick material.
 
Rick Haney Design said:
Pat,You have convinced me to try some A2.:D400 X2 = 60 to 61 RC on the temper.I should be able to get it locally from a specialty tool steel company.If not,Where can you order A2 from?For folders I like to start with .140 to .160 thick material.
Click to expand...

Our own NWA is selling it. See this thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=576031
I was very happy with both the service and quality from him.

Before then I used http://www.flat-stock.com/ and was happy with their product too, but they are a little more expensive and not a fellow knife maker.
 
I had a local supply the has run dry, they had a bunch in stock that I bought but they are not going to restock. I'll have to check the links provided to find a new supply. Not sure what size folder you are making but I start with 0.125 which is plenty thick if the stock is good precision ground. I was using thicker stock until I got this stock but its so clean I really dont loose much thickness.
 
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