Best rust preventative for blades?

Joined
Jan 31, 2008
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1. Just got my first Busses in from the cupidganza. My knives seem to be multiplying like rabbits now.
I'm looking for advice on the best oil, grease, rust preventative for this collection of INFI. I gather that INFI is very rust resistant, but I want to do everything possible to protect these blades as they take their safe queen positions. I have a grease called XF-7 by MD labs that I have used on my chopweiler with good sucess, but the blade is already coated.

2. Related question, the handles of most of my cupidganzas are different types of wood it appears. Should they be treated with anything also, or just leave 'em alone?

THANKS!:):):)
 
Store them with plenty of dessicant, and apply mineral oil as necessary.
 
mineral oil is great on ivory and most steels esp. carbon,damascus etc.

however, it can darken some wood species. Just fyi
 
Hey Brav,

There's a ton of products on that page, do you use the regular gun lube, or the extreme weapons grease?
 


+1 on both of the above products! I own a boat load of both these products. They are both great corrosion inhibitors. I find Eezox to have better penetrating capabilities along with a tad bit better corrosion resistance. The slip2000 has better lubricating properties.

Ren Wax and Marine Tuff-Cloth are also a great for preventing rust. The XF7 that you are currently using is good stuff.
 
I haven't tried Eezox, but I have been very impressed and happy with results with Renaissance Wax. :thumbup:


RenaissanceWax.jpg



However, for the record, INFI is NOT stainless and can slightly discolor, but it is pretty darn resistant to rust and corrossion. At worst, the most I have seen on my INFI is some very slight brown tinting develop in the pitted or grooved areas.


INFI is WAY more resistant to rust and corrosion than most non-stainless steels.

For comparison, the following is based on my opinions and experience.:

Some of the worst: 10XX series steels, O1, 5160, L6, 0170-6 (aka Carbon V or 50100-B)

Rusts pretty easily and requires maintenance, but slightly better than above: SR-101, 52100

Moderate, not terrible and reasonable to manage (IMO): SR-77 (S7)

Doesn't seem to rust quickly or readily, but develops spots so needs protection: 3V

Pretty good at resisting rust, but patinas easy when cutting many types of meat or other foods: A2


*** About as good as you can get short of stainless (or VERY near stainless like D2): INFI

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I haven't tried Eezox, but I have been very impressed and happy with results with Renaissance Wax. :thumbup:

Where is the best place to buy Ren Wax? I did some web searching and found a few potential sources, but...
http://www.restorationproduct.com/
http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html
http://www.knifeart.com/renaissancewax1.html
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=3235
... which one? Actually, as I post this, I see Woodcraft has a $5 off sale.
 
Indoors they wont rust but left in your truck for a year they will or when put away wet.
 
Where is the best place to buy Ren Wax? I did some web searching and found a few potential sources, but...
http://www.restorationproduct.com/
http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html
http://www.knifeart.com/renaissancewax1.html
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=3235
... which one? Actually, as I post this, I see Woodcraft has a $5 off sale.


The going price seems to be about $25.00 for the 200ml can.

I bought a can a couple of years ago and that seemed to be the case then. I searched hard and found a "deal" for about $22.00 + shipping.

That price at Woodcraft is likely going to be hard to beat.

I have even checked ebay and typically see it at about the $25.00 - $28.00 prices for a 200ml can.

DLT Trading also carries it at $25.00: http://www.dlttradingcompany.com/index.php?cPath=224&osCsid=a61a2b419280790e9a747c577fca84c1


A 200ml can will last a VERY LONG time though. So, per knife, that $25.00 can is still extremely cheap. It doesn't take much wax per knife and it is almost as easy to use as grease - you just rub it on, let it dry for a couple minutes and buff off. It buffs easily and very "Clean".

The main reason I like Ren Wax over greases is that Ren Wax is not messy. It feels clean to the touch and doesn't smear, smudge, fingerprint, and make the messes that grease make all over everything.

I am sure that some of the greases mentioned are great for protection as well, but I tend to handle my knives a lot and I like that I am not always getting grease on my hands and everything associated with my knives. :thumbup:

Also, even the can has stayed clean and easy to deal with. Ren Wax is fairly potent when you open the can and use it - like some car waxes, but the smell dissipates quickly and is contained in the can when closed.

Whereas many types of greases I have used over the years leak out of their bottles and make messes and have a chemical odor around the bottles along with the leaks.

When stored indoors, the wax is a solid like many other solid car waxes.

I keep it in a storage drawer near my knives behind my desk and never smell it.

If you use Ren Wax, don't get too carried away and waste a lot. To give you an idea of how far the wax can go, I only need about 1/4 - 1/2 as much wax per "large" knife as I use toothpaste when I brush. A sword might take as much as I use for toothpaste. A folder - much less.

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Definitely one of the best options, if you like to lick your knife clean.

.... until it goes rancid. :barf:

That is why people use mineral oil over food type oils. Mineral oil is one of the few oils that won't go rancid.

But, mineral oil is also used as a laxative, so careful. :o

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