best sharpener for ESEE knives

If you do choose to dive into freehanding with stones, I'd recommend practicing on some cheaper, softer steel blades. 1095 isn't really HARD to sharpen, but it is hardER than stainless 440c and the like.

Once you get hairpopping edges with the cheap steel, you should have enough practice and muscle memory to do your better blades.

Also invest in/build your own strop and get some green stropping compound. Stropping on the leather will buff out burrs and polish the edge so that it whittles hair. The green compound will just buff faster than plain leather.

Happy sharpening :)
 
Capt R said:
The census is spyderco sharpmaker and stones. I would really like to learn with stones. I probably need and old knife to practice. Do you agree? I bought a lansky system several years ago but never used it. It was misplaced and recently found. Not many references to lansky. Any particular reason?
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Het Capt. I know quite a few knifemakers (I've lived on this planet for a few years) *No other ones thank you* As far as the "lansky system" goes, it all has to be packed away in its box, you have to put it all in place on a flat surface, its rods can break, and I don't know a single maker that would use one. Only takes light strokes, so you can't hog off a pitted edge, well just not good in the field. You can go with some expensive "system" but just how easy is the "system" to take with you? As you mentioned starting with an old knife, is most likely one of the biggest causes of people getting an intrest in knives in the first place. Its like..WOW I just did THAT! when you get your first hairpoppin edge. I started at about 6-7 years old! My father worked for an abrasive company called "Norton" and I'm still using that 1st stone I put my first edge on decades ago. It still looks new, as the Nortons don't pit or scoop out on the surface. But yeah all of the makers I know (many) in shop used powered grinders and buffers and done in 15 secs. Or after much or little pratice use a good stone, that can go anywhere with no fuss. And can get a hairpopper in about 30 secs. I have shown many people how to care & sharped blades over the years, to prove how easy it really is I have done it a few times with my eyes closed, Just to prove a point. But yeah grab all of the old knifes and sharpen away, Its fun! enjoy edgy :thumbup:
Oh and Yes I agree. Show a pic of your first shaver if ya can.:D
 
For most touchups, this is all you need.

ESEESHARP004.jpg
 
Yep for the most part, all you need in most places is just a fast hone, then back to cuttin. Good pic. thanks edgy :thumbup:
 
I do all of mine on Norton oilstones and various Japanese waterstones, but it does take a lot of practice to master. However, once you get it down then you can bring even the most chipped of edges to shaving sharpness quickly and with very little effort. For most knives i use the Norton 3 stone system that my dad left me after he passed. The thing is atleast 20 years old and while the tray is beaten to hell, the stones are still perfect. Its such a good product that you can still buy the exact same thing to this very day for around $200-250.
 
Ultimately, you have to learn to freehand. The real down-side to the Lansky is that you don't pick up any skills. The EdgePro system seems to be a better jig type of affair (I have only a Lansky) but it is crazy expensive and pretty much needs a bench.

I bit the bullet and got a complete set of DMT DuoSharp 8" Diamond stones and that has been the ticket. Now these are not cheap but the diamonds cut so fast that I think a person learns faster...and of course its easier to fix a bad edge.

Even if you just use of good old-fashioned hardware store carborundum stone, you'll be better off in the long run.

PS. Do yourself a favor and stick with water based stones...oil is a mess. Of course that is just my opinion and since this is the Internet, we all know what that's work.
 
On the Junglas all I have used thus far is a ceramic stick and it is still as sharp as it came. No need to get fancy, unless you have a dull edge :)
 
TheGame said:
On the Junglas all I have used thus far is a ceramic stick and it is still as sharp as it came. No need to get fancy, unless you have a dull edge :)
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One of the things that impresses me about all my RC or ESEE knives has been the factory sharpness. I could name some really expensive brands that don't come near as sharp. If you never let them get dull, you never have to sharpen them. Just a frequent touch up with a crock stick works. But even if you should dull one, the 1095 steel is easy to sharpen.
 
Horn Dog said:
One of the things that impresses me about all my RC or ESEE knives has been the factory sharpness. I could name some really expensive brands that don't come near as sharp. If you never let them get dull, you never have to sharpen them. Just a frequent touch up with a crock stick works. But even if you should dull one, the 1095 steel is easy to sharpen.
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Yep. Never let them get dull, never need to sharpen them for any period of time. Touch ups are all it takes.

And, I would agree 100%. The 1095 is wonderfully easy to sharpen. :thumbup:
 
I finally took the plunge and ordered a spyderco sharpmaker. I received it yesterday and have been touching up my various blades. Coming form someone as inexperienced as me at sharpening knives, this system has been very easy to learn and use. After a bit of practice and time, I have gotten "shaving sharp" edges on all my ESEE's. Highly recommended.
 
+1 to sharpmaker. As others have mentioned, the SM really shines when the angles match up with either the 30º or 40º setting. Once you get these matched up, IMO there is nothing that is easier or fool proof.

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i'm new to sharpeners as well, and came across the Edge Pro - Pro Kits as well.
is there anything better than the Edge Pro and Spyderco Sharpmaker combo?
how long will one set of each last approximately (only home use, nothing professional)?
 
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