I have bought my Badger Attack-E recently and I am looking for the proper sharpener to use outdoors mostly but at home as well. I have an EZE LAP model 520 diamond sharpener. It is a folding, 2-sided fine/coarse diamond stone. Could anyone tell me if it is O.K. to use it on my knife or would a ceramic rod be better? Which is the best sharpener for Busse knives?
Best Sharpenner for Busse knives?
- Thread starter Fanis
- Start date
SALTY
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2000
- Messages
- 5,756
Either Busse knives hold an edge realy well or I'm just plain not using them enough!
When the edge does need a little touch up I just strop the flat side on a course strop charged with Flitz, then the smooth leather strop then very lightly once or twice on the bevel side just to take off what ever burr might have ocurred. I like to keep the edge keen and do this relatively frequently. Perhaps this is why I really have never had to sharpen much.
On those relatively rare occaisions, I have used a strop like stroke (away from the cutting edge) on the finer 204 ceramic sticks and then the stropping as previously mentioned.
I will defer to the "experts" around here, but this is what has worked for me.
When the edge does need a little touch up I just strop the flat side on a course strop charged with Flitz, then the smooth leather strop then very lightly once or twice on the bevel side just to take off what ever burr might have ocurred. I like to keep the edge keen and do this relatively frequently. Perhaps this is why I really have never had to sharpen much.
On those relatively rare occaisions, I have used a strop like stroke (away from the cutting edge) on the finer 204 ceramic sticks and then the stropping as previously mentioned.
I will defer to the "experts" around here, but this is what has worked for me.
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2000
- Messages
- 6,015
Sure, it's fine. All you need is an abrasive coarse enough to raise a burr and an abrasive fine enough to smooth off the burr. A strop is good for finishing and a steel is good for maintaining. If you are looking to preserve the asymmetrial edge, you'll need an abrasive mounted on a soft backing for the convex side. Silicon carbide sandpaper mounted on rubber (like a mouse pad) will conform to the convex edge. Give it a try on a cheap knife first.
Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
Fanis :
[EZE LAP model 520 diamond sharpener]
If you buy a $350 dollar knife, you want to keep it around as much as possible, this means removing as little steel as necessary when sharpening. Diamond hones are only necessary when you have really worn away an edge or have damaged it so extensively that you need to remove a visble indendation/fracture (impacts off of hardned metal, rock etc.) .
I generally use a strop loaded with CrO which is a stainless steel buffing compound. It is composed of mainly CrO with fine AO abrasives and will quickly polish even the harder steel blades. For example, awhile ago I did some test cutting on an ATS-34 blade which blunted the knife so much it was reduced down to 10% of its optimum cutting ability on 1/4" poly.
I then proceeded to strop it on a leather hone loaded with the CrO compound. While the abrasive is removing some steel, it is also working to align the edge. After 50 strokes per side the edge was back to shaving smoothly and easily slicing through the 1/4 poly under a very light load. Best of all very little metal was removed so the lifetime of the blade was not significantly impacted.
-Cliff
[EZE LAP model 520 diamond sharpener]
If you buy a $350 dollar knife, you want to keep it around as much as possible, this means removing as little steel as necessary when sharpening. Diamond hones are only necessary when you have really worn away an edge or have damaged it so extensively that you need to remove a visble indendation/fracture (impacts off of hardned metal, rock etc.) .
I generally use a strop loaded with CrO which is a stainless steel buffing compound. It is composed of mainly CrO with fine AO abrasives and will quickly polish even the harder steel blades. For example, awhile ago I did some test cutting on an ATS-34 blade which blunted the knife so much it was reduced down to 10% of its optimum cutting ability on 1/4" poly.
I then proceeded to strop it on a leather hone loaded with the CrO compound. While the abrasive is removing some steel, it is also working to align the edge. After 50 strokes per side the edge was back to shaving smoothly and easily slicing through the 1/4 poly under a very light load. Best of all very little metal was removed so the lifetime of the blade was not significantly impacted.
-Cliff
Thank you Cliff! You know, this was exactly what I had in mind. I mean, removing as little steel as necessary when sharpening. Do you know if I can buy these things (leather strops or CrO compound) somewhere online? I live in Greece, Europe and I am not sure if I can find here the same materials that you use there in the U.S.A.
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2001
- Messages
- 454
Greetings, Fanis!
Try www.handamerican.com. They have a good selection of strops & compounds for reasonable prices; & good customer service.
Happy Stropping!
Climber Clif
Try www.handamerican.com. They have a good selection of strops & compounds for reasonable prices; & good customer service.
Happy Stropping!
Climber Clif
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2001
- Messages
- 163
You can also try www.leevalleytools.com
I start my sharpening with a fine stone (which by my standards is low medium) from www.razoredgesystems.com Their coarse stone is good for edge repair. Then I move to Medium and Fine ceramic stones from www.spyderco.com The dark grey and the white. Either I'll use my sharpmaker sticks or just the spyderco medidm and fine bench stones depending on the size of the blade. Then to the Spyderco Ultra fine stone (comparable to 3000 grit) which only comes in bench size. And then I polish the edge with a fine leather strop loaded with flitz. Takes a little longer but I enjoy it and I gets a sharp knife.
- Joined
- May 5, 2001
- Messages
- 919
I have a Badger Attack E on order as well. I've never seen a Busse Knife yet so I'm not sure if my sharpening system is appropriate for something of that quality, but the Edge Pro Apex has transformed the blades of some of my cheaper knives into absolute works of art. I don't work for Edge Pro in any capacity, but the quality of the edge that it brings out (once I mastered the system - took a few attempts and a few calls to the manufacturer) is beyond belief. It basically provides a mirror finished razor edge. OK, I'll stop.
Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
I have used the leather and abrasive products from Lee Valley, and will be getting some from Hand American shortly. I will update this thread if I find a significant difference between the two.
In regards to the Edge Pro, it will do a quality sharpening job on the knives Busse Combat products. Just keep in mind that it produces a flat ground edge bevel.
-Cliff
In regards to the Edge Pro, it will do a quality sharpening job on the knives Busse Combat products. Just keep in mind that it produces a flat ground edge bevel.
-Cliff
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2001
- Messages
- 48
Hi Cliff:
Are you saying that Edgepo is not so sutiable for Busse knives or otherwise? So Edgepro produces flat ground edge bevel which is not compatible with Busse knives? What about the Skarb system in comparison with Edgepro? You also said something about stropping on a leather hone in your earlier reply. How's this compared to steeling? Do they give you the same results?
Are you saying that Edgepo is not so sutiable for Busse knives or otherwise? So Edgepro produces flat ground edge bevel which is not compatible with Busse knives? What about the Skarb system in comparison with Edgepro? You also said something about stropping on a leather hone in your earlier reply. How's this compared to steeling? Do they give you the same results?
Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
Researcher :
The Busse Combat knives come with a variety of edges. The combat serious has the dual convex/flat edge, some of the special editions have a full convex bevel, and some of the older models may have a full flat bevel. So if you want to keep the profile the knives come with, you can't always use the Edge Pro. However it is not like you can't modifiy the edge profile if you wish to do so.
Convex vs flat is not a simple question. First off you have to address the sharpening question. If you can't easily maintain one, then regardless of its performance you should not use it. If you can sharpen a convex (or dual) edge, then they have strong advantages over flat ground edges. Basically the give a higher level of initial edge durability at the same level of cutting ability vs a flat ground edge.
I have not used the Skarb, but it is my understanding that it puts grind lines close to parallel to the edge. This is exactly the opposite of what you want to do for maximum cutting performance and edge strength. It also does a flat grind. The only machines that I know of that do convex grinds are those that CATRA offers, I will be buying one of them hopefully next year. They are not cheap by any means though. You could buy a full line of Busse Combat models for the smallest sharpener they sell.
No they are very different things. Stropping is a honing action that removes metal. Plain leather contains silica which will abrade soft steels (which are commonly found in straight razors). I use a strop loaded with CrO which is a high performance buffing compound. It will remove edge burrs and raise the polish.
A smooth steel on the other hand just deforms the edge and raises the cutting performance by altering the geometry slightly. It does not remove any metal from the edge. A grooved steel is slightly different, on softer knife blades, a grooved steel will actually act like a file if you press hard enough.
One minor correction, a strop will do some alignment similar to a steel, but to a *much* smaller degree as the pressure they exert on the edges are not even of the same magnitude.
-Cliff
The Busse Combat knives come with a variety of edges. The combat serious has the dual convex/flat edge, some of the special editions have a full convex bevel, and some of the older models may have a full flat bevel. So if you want to keep the profile the knives come with, you can't always use the Edge Pro. However it is not like you can't modifiy the edge profile if you wish to do so.
Convex vs flat is not a simple question. First off you have to address the sharpening question. If you can't easily maintain one, then regardless of its performance you should not use it. If you can sharpen a convex (or dual) edge, then they have strong advantages over flat ground edges. Basically the give a higher level of initial edge durability at the same level of cutting ability vs a flat ground edge.
I have not used the Skarb, but it is my understanding that it puts grind lines close to parallel to the edge. This is exactly the opposite of what you want to do for maximum cutting performance and edge strength. It also does a flat grind. The only machines that I know of that do convex grinds are those that CATRA offers, I will be buying one of them hopefully next year. They are not cheap by any means though. You could buy a full line of Busse Combat models for the smallest sharpener they sell.
No they are very different things. Stropping is a honing action that removes metal. Plain leather contains silica which will abrade soft steels (which are commonly found in straight razors). I use a strop loaded with CrO which is a high performance buffing compound. It will remove edge burrs and raise the polish.
A smooth steel on the other hand just deforms the edge and raises the cutting performance by altering the geometry slightly. It does not remove any metal from the edge. A grooved steel is slightly different, on softer knife blades, a grooved steel will actually act like a file if you press hard enough.
One minor correction, a strop will do some alignment similar to a steel, but to a *much* smaller degree as the pressure they exert on the edges are not even of the same magnitude.
-Cliff
- Joined
- May 18, 1999
- Messages
- 15,395
:
For anyone new to using a strop it's very important to learn how to use one properly.
It's not rocket science, but it's very important.
When you reach the end of stroke on the strop Stop right there!!!!!
Then lift the edge of the knife off the strop. After awhile you will learn to do this without thinking.
If one continueously raises the spine of the blade first you will eventually roll the edge you have worked so diligently to put on.
I had to learn this the hard way so I hope it helps any of you new to stroping guys to do it correctly from the beginning.
For anyone new to using a strop it's very important to learn how to use one properly.
It's not rocket science, but it's very important.
When you reach the end of stroke on the strop Stop right there!!!!!
Then lift the edge of the knife off the strop. After awhile you will learn to do this without thinking.
If one continueously raises the spine of the blade first you will eventually roll the edge you have worked so diligently to put on.
I had to learn this the hard way so I hope it helps any of you new to stroping guys to do it correctly from the beginning.