Best small anvil for peining steel pins on Buck 110's

Redrummd

Redrummd

Joined
May 21, 2007
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I am currently using a Harbor Freight small anvil, that probably weights 20 pounds, for peining the steel pins on Buck 110's. The problem is the pins are as hard or harder than the cheap steel in this China made anvil. So, I have a dimpled surface in the area I use for the peining and I think these dimples are occasionally causing dimples in the edges of the brass bolsters. I just figured this may be the cause of the occasional glue line not being perfectly straight.

So, can anyone recommend a very hard steel anvil that is fairly thin in the width (to fit between the bolsters on a Buck 110) and hard enough steel to pein steel pins such as the pivot pin on a Buck 110? Two to three inches wide is enough width. Cost is not a factor for me - I want the best that can be easily found/made, and shipped.

If someone makes anvil like tools - I actualy want one less than 3 inches wide with a hole somewhere in it to knock pins through if needed, and hard enough steel to not dimple when peining steel pins. 10 pounds to 20 should be plenty of mass. Again, I am willing to pay appropriately for top quality tools.
 
there is a very cool stidy custom made here on the forum by someone.

the Brits call their peinning anvil a "Stidy"
hope this helps
buzz
 
Just like making a home brew forging anvil, making a home made stiddy is simple. Order/find/get a piece of 1X3X3" steel that is hardenable. 4140,5160,1060-1080, S-5-7, O-1,etc. Harden the block and draw the temper to about Rc50.Sand and polish one of the 1X3 edges for the anvil surface. Either make a nice wooden block to hold the anvil, or weld it to a steel block.
Stacy
 
Pivot pins should not be that hard. There is no advantage to using hardened steel pivots. If you use a mild steel pin, any small metal block will work. I generally use a steel block that is approximately 3" square. It has a slot down the top, and a few holes drilled through it. I use a 1-1/2 ounce cutler's hammer to peen. If you are hitting the pin hard enough to do damage to your anvil, you are using too much force.
 
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Buy a 6lb maul and weld on a square that will fit into your anvil.
Or wld on a base and use it standalone, although if you do this get a bigger one. You might even be able to find one at a garage sale or flea market for a buck or two. I found my favorite hammer that way.
Thanks,
Del
 
I have an old anvil vise the is missing the mechanicals...and the moving side of the jaws... barn score. It's probably from the 20'-30's. I don't know if the face is hardened. If I had to guess, it's about 45-50 lbs. It's overkill, but it serves the purpose. When I was first getting started, I used a 2 lb mini I got from a knife supply place for 8 or 9 bucks. That worked well too, but the pins did ding it a little over time... not enough to cause problems though.
 
Mike Quesenberry said:
I use a small piece or railroad track. I hear it's made out of 1084. It should ht nicely to staceys specs.
Click to expand...

That's interesting... I have a few feet of old mine rail track I've been trying to figure out what to do with. I thought I might use it as a small anvil until I found my old Fisher & Norris. I guess it couldn't hurt to experiment, maybe I'll dig it out this spring.
 
I've never ht'd the track I just take it over to the grinder and reface it. I have a good anvil it's a 200 lb peter wright but I don't like being bent over trying to see little pins. The rr track on the workbench under the lights is perfect.
 
Bill, The problem pin is the steel rocker arm pin on the Buck 110, it is a fairly wide steel pin and the Harbor Freight anvil's have very soft faces. After dinging a couple hundred steel pins it is pretty dimpled. I use a 2 ounce polished face top quality hammer for these thick steel pins and a 1.5 ounce for brass pins. I pein the pins flat into a recess in the liner behind the stone scales.

I just do not have easy access to hardened steel that is milled flat so I was hoping someone had a source for buying a decent tiny jewelers anvil, stiddy or even a machined piece of steel block like you have. I live over 20 miles from the closest welding store or other possible sources for what I am looking for so I am trying to find one that can be bought and shipped to me.

I may have located a stiddy if the guy selling it still has it. I am waiting for a response.
 
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Red
I understand. Try using a common nail for the pin. It will peen easily. As far as a bench block, Rio Grande sells them, but they are expensive. Railroad track would work well, especially with the top milled flat. Got a scrapyard nearby? Any machine shop could make you one.
 
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