Best steel, blade shape and grind for a lazy knife user?

S

Samon

Joined
Nov 12, 2012
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Ive been having a think about how crappy the cts-bd1 blade on my spyderco ukpk performs. It gets blunt too fast, is too soft and I just can't be bothered to maintain it all the f'ing time so its almost always blunt. I swip it on the course diamond stone now and again in hope for a toothy edge but its not a good steel for this and mirror polished just dulls way too quick.

Only good thing is it doesn't rust! Unlike my Douk douk, which is kinda rusty from all the saveloy's I've been cutting up and eating with it.. And not bothering to wipe it off. I guess I'm lazy, or my interests as being a knife nerd has lessened and my usage has gone way up?

Either way, I'm curious to the easiest, lazy mans knife you have or can think of!

I think for me it would be a sheepsfoot, full serrated and made of better stainless. The sheepsfoot tip is great for boxes and packets, the serrations are good as they don't need touching up very often and I almost never need a razor edge to whittle anything when I'm out in public. And a better steel can't be a bad thing!

So, what do you dudes reckon?
 
If you really want rust resistance as a primary category I would go with some spyderco with h1. Spyderco salt is an option. FFG is a very easy to maintain blade geometry, the salt is not quite ffg but has a pretty high bevel.
 
My main need is for it be be able to cut the day to day crap, and not blunten too quick or lose its edge from corrosion.I used to enjoy stropping my edge and keeping every knife sharp, but I'm just not that interested anymore.

Although I did sharpen my douk douk up today, first time its been done properly since new nearly 3 months ago! Not my fault though, I've been away from my stuff for ages and only today got to make the effort.
 
Can anyone think of an easier load out? Just for kicks.

For a pocket knife I'd need it to be a slip joint or friction folder under 3", if only my spydie had a decent blade..
 
if only my spydie had a decent blade..
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So, what you seem to be really saying is you can't sharpen a lick.

Is the car lousy because it is low on gas too?

Learn to sharpen. BD-1 is better than the steels I had growing up that were stainless. I still like carbon steels but they need even more care, and most have less wear resistance than BD#1.

You have no concept of how good you have it now.
 
If you don't like CTS-BD1 I would NOT go with H1 as it is not much better....it's just rust resistant. When you have to sharpen a knife (if you are lazy) a serrated blade will be a pain in the butt.

Get a Spyderco Native FRN. Comes with CPM-S30V and it's pinned so it's light and you don't have to mess with it. It'll hold an edge for a good amount of time and not get all blunty.
 
Full serration, hollow saber grind, thin stock. That way even when it blunts up a bit it'll keep on cutting by virtue of the bevel alone. I agree with the others, though. Just getting good at sharpening is the best option.
 
Man up, pussy! All right, that was a bit harsh. :) But sharpening is a great option! I have never used VG 10, even though I lust for it, but I hear it is a really good compromise between sharpenability and edge holding. Maybe try something in VG 10, and for heavens sake stop eating those saveloys! That stuff's not good for you. Jeez, am I turning into Uncle Alan, or something? And the full flat grind cuts so well too. Give that a shot.
 
A sheepsfoot or wharncliffe would be easier to maintain in a plain edge configuration, just by virtue of the straight edge being easier to sharpen, but it shouldn't make any difference in a fully serrated blade. On the other hand, yes, sheeps and wharnies do make excellent edc utility blades. If Spydie made a fully serrated Pingo, that'd be just about perfect for your requirements. :(
 
I'm recommending the h1 for the lazy not cleaning knife part, but if sharpness is more important than rust resistance go a different direction with s30v or vg10. The issue with an opinel though would be you would have to clean it, or your back to square one with a rusty carbon steel knife. For the record, I love opinel knives.
 
Balls Deep said:
I'm recommending the h1 for the lazy not cleaning knife part, but if sharpness is more important than rust resistance go a different direction with s30v or vg10. The issue with an opinel though would be you would have to clean it, or your back to square one with a rusty carbon steel knife. For the record, I love opinel knives.
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If by sharpness you mean edge retention, h1 will hold its own with those steels in full serrated form due to being work hardened.
 
Benchmade Griptilian. Not too expensive S30V, great ergonomics, won't rust easily and holds an edge really well.
 
Samon said:
My main need is for it be be able to cut the day to day crap, and not blunten too quick or lose its edge from corrosion.I used to enjoy stropping my edge and keeping every knife sharp, but I'm just not that interested anymore.

Although I did sharpen my douk douk up today, first time its been done properly since new nearly 3 months ago! Not my fault though, I've been away from my stuff for ages and only today got to make the effort.
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Not interested in keeping your knives sharp!? Dude, is everything OK? Are you feeling depressed or something?
 
How about you just buy a guided sharpening system like a KME, Wicked Edge, Edgepro, etc. Make sharpening easier for you or a sharpmaker to touch up your blades, just leave it assembled and do a few quick swipes on it as needed.

Or just pick up a knife with a high wear resistance steel and just send it into richard j when it dulls down and you want it sharp again. Spyderco just put out another knife in s110v, that should take you awhile to fully dull.
 
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