Best steel for a beginer

just my .02 , Use 1084 or 1095. They are available in a nice easy to work 1/8" thickness and easy to HT in a back yard set up. 5160 is a great second choice but keep in mind its mostly available in only 1/4" thickness wich can be a daunting thickness to grind.
 
just another note on bbq grill forge. They work great for a starter set up but DO NOT use briqettes as fuel, to much binders and crap in them can react with the steel and make it ugly. Get a bag of lump charcoal.
 
I am sending the blade out to be heat treated at the same place I am getting the steel from knifemakers.ca I am going with the 5160 because the price is right and I may order up some s30v at the same time because I may make a matching folder to go along with it.
I have my design finalized, more less 9.5" overal length, 4.5" handle, 5" drop point blade. Brass bolster, pummel and rivets. Blue/black denim micarta scales.
I know its a little overboard for a first knife, but thats just the way I am. If you think this is crazy you should see one of my mountain bikes, I was going over my belongings for insurance purposes and realized that I have sank close to 12 grand into a bike I ride 3-5 times a year and i have two more that are valued at over 5 grand each, so as you can see overboard is my style. It all goes back to my grandfather who always said "if you are going to fail, fail big because the successes will be just as big":D
 
Well here is the design I came up with
kniketemplate.jpg

And a 3D mock up of it
knife.jpg

After seeing the mock up I am going to change the guard to look more like a flipper and loose the brass over it, so that if I go ahead and make the matching folder they will be more similar looking. I didn't try too hard to make a good micarta texture but I will in the future.

Next images will be of some test runs on a scrap piece of steel I found, Feel free to give suggestions. My design is highly infulenced by a Lloyd Harding knife, I just really liked the constent curve from the but of the handle to the tip of the blade.
 
I don't think there is a "best" steel for beginners, but some of the ones mentioned should be O.K. There are a lot of variables to consider. I do think however, that sticking with one or two types of steels until you get proficient with them is often a good idea.

I'd like to see you be wary of harsh value judgments (and absolutes) like best, worst,... easiest, hardest,... correct, incorrect,... proper, improper, etc... keep an open mind and see what works for you.
 
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Looks like a nice design.

What I would do is straighten up the plunge cut because if you're sharpening with a stone, the stone will rub on either the plunge line or on the guard. Second, on the handle, I'd cut in for the index finger and widen it from there. As it is, it looks narrower at the back end tan the front which could cause issues with slippery/tired hands.
 
Advice taken, just added a choil, and I modified the gaurd. The handle is actually a constant width front to back, the 3D image makes it look like it thins out to the back and I will try it that way for now. As I said I am making a rough sample out of scrap steel and I can always take material away to make it feel right before jumping into the good stuff. As it is the cardboard cut out feels good in the hand, but the finger cut out may improve the feel. Only time will tell.

EDIT: I added the finger cut, and straightened the plunge cut and added the choil. It looks good so I am rendering a new picture and will post in a few minutes. Computers make design work so easy
 
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Ok so I started testing my Hacksaw and file skills today on that scrap peice of mystery steel. Its not to bad, cut a little deep a couple of times, but he end results were promissing I will post a pic of what I did later after I make supper. Toltal time spent cutting and filing was about 75 minutes, If I slow it down a bit and get a more visable scrib line I think this will turn out well.
 
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