Best steel for a Nessmuk knife if money is no obstacle

Daniel Koster

Daniel Koster

www.kosterknives.com
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Oct 18, 2001
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If money was no obstacle what steel would you want for a nessmuk knife? (whether custom or production)


[excepting damascus...not a fair answer...:D]



Hypothetical example:


Let's say a buddy owes you big time and wants to buy you and him a pair of nessmuk style knives....and he's rich...:D (but doesn't like damascus :rolleyes: )....


1 = What steel would you advise him to get?

2 = And why?



.
 
i would probably go A2 or O1 or something along those lines.

i love the way barkriver's A2 performs, and i enjoy that O1 is a fairly simple steel with nostalgic type properties (ie patinas)

but then again, with no experience handling them, i might lean towards something like 3V or infi steel. they look great on paper and have incredible reviews all around...
 
I would say A2 and 52100 and if the guy wants something more corrosion resistant with better edge holding my choice is D2
 
Hey Daniel, Would it also depend on the size? for bigger knives 5160 is a good tough steel...
I have only worked with high carbon's but what about some of the more exotic stainless? some people seem to really like those steels.. of course there is always damascus !!!
 
If he's really my buddy, he'll already know I've never had much use for a Nessmuk-pattern blade . . . but if he's gonna do it anyhow, I'd tell him O-1 or 1095 and to put the money in good handle materials and scabbards.

Realistically, if properly tempered, O-1 or 1095 are either one adequate for most of what is likely to be done with such a knife.
 
I have a bunch of O1 knives and love how they perform and the look they develop after use. Sometimes I give them a few passes with some sandpaper...cleans them right up. Easy to maintain the edge and they sharpen like a dream.

Now where is that buddy?
 
A knife dedicated to processing flesh and hide, hows about some of that laminated SGPS. High hardness, edge retention and thin. I've never handled it in a fixed blade but I suspect for this it would trounce the obvious candidates like D2. Flesh by nature being wet indicates a slow to corrode medium having an advantage too, and I believe this would be better than some of the barely stainless on the cusps. If he owes me big, and can afford it, he can shell out for a maker to go find it. And it is unlikely to be replicated in the same materials by anyone else.
 
Another vote for A2.
I've got a Bark River and a Rapid River. Both in A2 with outstanding heat treat and they are stelar performers.
 
I'm going with 3V,10V,or S7...mostly because I'm such a steel whore :D

seriously though...that 3V is tough stuff!
 
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1095. There's much to be said for having utterly predictable traits. Besides, it's authentic to the pattern which should count for something. Put the money into time and testing the piece for exact performance conformity. :) Regards, ss.

P.S. I find it nearly irresistable when a knife description includes all specifications of steel source, treat protocol, HRC, grind angles, weight, full dimensions, testing results, and materials used including adhesives and surface prep. So very rare... Trust is good, but knowledge is better. Just my $0.02. Most of the time it's even hard to find a spine shot or anything other than the obligatory profile photo. Is this a rant:eek: I'll stop now:D.

I should add that DK's site is nearly a model of what information I appreciate seeing about knife construction. I've studied it a couple of times and it's very, very good! ss
 
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I think 01 and 3V, one for its dependability and price and the other for its strength and tuffness.

As long as its convex it will be good.
 
simple knife simple steel O1 easy to sharpen, a nessmukk need not be overcomplicated. Pat
 
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Unobtainium! :eek:

I really don't care as long as it's carbon. A2, O1 3V, 52100, whatever.
 
How 'bout INFI. Just buy a fat Battle Mistress and you could probably get two reasonable sized blades out of it. :D
 
Nessmuks traditionally are thin. 1095 would be my pick in a flat grind. Something 3/32 thickness could still chop some tent steaks and shelter, come in handy for defense, skin out a moose, or slice up dinner depending on need. Its the perfect companion to a traditional two blade folder and camp axe. If you have to have a stainless steel blade its a tough call. I really wouldn't want one in stainless personally but to get away with that thinness 13C26 maybe or H1 if you can find it anywhere but you can't flat grind that steel. I don't think its available to us at this point anyway though.

STR
 
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