Recommendation? Best Steel for Bushcraft/Camp knife?

[inkynate]

AEB-L (or 12c27, 13c26) because Larrin's recent article is top-of-mind, it's stainless, does well with thin edges and low angles, is quite tough, and is stoopid easy the sharpen:

https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/03/04/all-about-aeb-l/

 

[rswanson]

3V is great until you need to sharpen it and don't have the time and equipment. My vote is "other" and "O1" but 1095 would be a great alternative.

 

[craytab]

I'd be right there with you guys on this, but he's going to struggle getting the Delta protocol on a custom. A maker that's got a good low temp treat figured out in-house or better yet with Peters is still a very good choice

Yes, of course. Don't answer this question so practically.

If he wants the best steel (ht), in the grind he wants, and custom? That is going to cost you. I bet nathan would do one for a million or two. If one wants the best of the best, that is the best way to go. Drop some crazy cash and get exactly what you want.

Or.......just buy something already made. Yes, you won't get exactly what you want, but you will get a beyond than perfectly functional blade. I'd recommend the cpk field knife. If one has the money (secondary market) or skill (Friday sales), they aren't hard to get.

The biggest problem with these type of "best" threads, is that we will all have different opinions on what is "best".

IMO, the op has set up a straw man. He knows most will vote for 3v, delta even. A knife in this configuration isn't possible unless massive dollars are dropped. It's an argument that is set up to be won.

Tl;dr: Just stick with the opinel unless you are cutting zucchini.

 

[Lodd]

The right answer is always dependent on:

• The circumstances (wet or dry, short or long trips?)
• The strengths and weaknesses of the maker
• Personal preference

If you can't define the above, you cannot answer the question.

 

[Fanglekai]

There is no best steel. You could get something from Terava in 80CrV2 for pretty cheap. They have some good options.

 

[Hard Knocks]

Yes, very true.

Yes, of course. Don't answer this question so practically.

I must be reading the original post too literally, but then I am a very literal-type. Sometimes I don't catch onto all the dynamics that are going on. Happy Friday gentlemen.​

 

[hexenjager]

What steel does Opinel use?

 

[SteelJunkee]

There is no steel that is perfect for every situation, but I think AEB-L is an ideal choice for outdoor knives. It has a unique combination of toughness, edge retention, and ease of sharpening not often found in other stainless steels. AEB-L differs from most stainless steels, it forms very small carbides when heat treated and has a very fine grain structure. Since the carbides are small, they are easier to sharpen, and since the grain is fine, edge stability and toughness get a boost. I would probably go with AEB-L over CPM3V nowadays. It's like a stainless 52100 on steroids.

 

[Rasmus80]

For the past couple of years, O1 tool steel has done the trick for me.
It holds a good edge. Plenty tough. Sharpens real easy.
There is nothing exotic or cutting edge about it. It just needs a good heat treat, and you are good.
Probably a boring choice, but a solid one.

 

[SpyderPhreak]

52100, D3V, INFI, or Elmax (all with good HT, Peters or Busse, around 60 RC). Depending on usage/situation. Toughness, wear resistance, or stainlessness? None are terribly difficult to sharpen.

 

[Ajack60]

Well, what I've done before was to look in the knife makers forum for the type of knife I was wanting, pm the maker with all my questions including budget and see if it's doable. What I've learned is that when you talk to a knife maker, they will ask even more questions about what you'll be doing with a knife and recommend the best all around steel and style to meet your needs. And you know what, they hit it dead center on all aspects.
If you go look in the knife makers for sale forum, you'll see just about every steel mentioned so far being used for what you're looking for. The biggest hurdle is going to be your budget.

 

[PirateSeulb]

From the list I vote 3V but there are so many good options and most any steel with the right geometry will handle the tasks with ease.

 

[ATJ999]

3V, Elmax, AEB L, and Cru-wear are my favorites. A2 is REALLY growing on me! Amazing steel! Very easy to sharpen and holds a very good edge, plus it develops a nice patina with use, but I live in the Pacific NW, so corrosion resistance helps here, which is why I like the steels I mentioned, along with their other amazing attributes.

 

[justjed]

It's funny that AEB-L, one of the oldest stainless alloys, is practically mythical around here, and the identical 13C26 is hardly ever mentioned, or only with a sneer? Either would work for me, if I thought I needed another stainless knife.

 

[ATJ999]

It's funny that AEB-L, one of the oldest stainless alloys, is practically mythical around here, and the identical 13C26 is hardly ever mentioned, or only with a sneer? Either would work for me if I thought I needed another stainless knife.

With a good HT, they are amazing all around steels, as is 14C28N. Love them!

 

[justjed]

Blackie Collins turned me on to the Sandvik alloys in 1986. He was sold on them for their ease of heat treat, relatively easy grinding, cleanliness, and fine grain structure, as well as better than average edge-holding(for the time, and assuming proper grind and heat-treatment), and ease of sharpening. He wasn't wrong. I'll take 12C27 over 440A or AUS 6 or even AUS-8A for most applications where stainless alloys might be preferred. 13C26 or 14C28N are better still. I'm not a steel snob, and don't base my cutlery choices on that variable alone, necessarily. Although, given a choice, I might choose a 'trendier' alloy, if I thought I could use the extra capabilities. I do like ZDP-189 for an EDC folder tho...

 

[sabre cat]

With a good HT, they are amazing all around steels, as is 14C28N. Love them!

14C28N is my personal favorite budget steel.

Kershaw used 14C28N in their US made Zing. I liked it so much I purchased more than one. The only way to ensure that you don't lose a knife is to buy a second one as back up. I never seem to lose any knife that I have doubles of. Misplace, yes, loose, never. Yet, if I give, sell or trade off the second blade; the first is sure to disappear.

 

[MolokaiRider]

CPM 3V I suppose because it’s edgeholding is fantastic. Carry a small pocket diamond sharpener and you’re good to go.

And to be fair...all those steels you listed would work great. I don’t see any slouches in your list.

 

[BladeScout]

Ditto on the D3V. CPK FK

Tl;dr: Just stick with the opinel unless you are cutting zucchini.

 

[pinnah]

Thanks all for the input. Lots to think about and I appreciate the thoughts.

The leaders in the poll are mostly what I expected and it leaves me thinking about the long-standing debate about the virtue of ease of sharpening. I'm not fanning the flames of that - just noting that that's the primary distinction I see between the clear winner (3V) and the second tier (1095 & 5160).

One insight I've found particularly helpful is the reminder to pick the heat treat as much as the steel and with that, the advice that well established companies often have their heat treat better dialed in, which leads me back to production knives.

So then the question becomes, would a production 3V knife with it's longer lasting edge be worth it to me compared to my current 1095 knife? I'm going to have to sit with that for a bit.

Lastly, as correctly noted in the official W&C stalking thread, my inquiry was inspired by a poll being run in the Buck forum by SK Knives regarding a limited run Buck 104 Compadre. The consensus there formed in a very different way but then, the primary grind for that knife hasn't been decided on so it's not clear (to me) if the group is shooting for camp knife or a hunting knife. If you're interested in such knives the discussion in the Buck forum may be of interest.

Thanks again.