Best Steel in a Slipjoint?

I’ve been wondering and looking for feedback on the Case knives that came out in s35vn and 20cv. I think they had a large trapper and medium stockman in both steels. Has anyone tested them for edge retention and wear? Or what their heat treatment and hrc is ?
 
Lesknife said:
Has anyone tested them for edge retention and wear?
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I had a Sodbuster Jr, but sent it back for severe blade rub/ off-centered blade.
I had a Medium Stockman with decent FnF, but gifted it to a friend... I do that sometimes.
I still have a Large Trapper and it has really good FnF, but I don't use it enough to really test the edge retention.
Guess that wasn't much help. 🤣
 
In a slip joint I want a thinly ground blade with acute edge geometry for slicing. I dont like patinas or rust, and in folders you cant get around touching the blade every time you use it, so I dont bother with non-stainless in folders.

So the best steel for me would be something that combines corrosion resistance with good edge retention and high edge stability. Id also want it to sharpen and strop up fairly easily and quickly. That would be something like 14c28n hardened to the maximum 62-63hrc. Basically the same kinda steels you'd use for a razor blade.
 
One thing to keep in mind with getting into the super steel categories, the edge may last much longer than other steels but they will be much harder to sharpen once they get dull. You may even need to invest in a higher grade sharpening stones such as diamond stones/ect.
I have & use them all but have come to appreciate a quality carbon steel or steels like Bucks stainless. They may not hold an edge quite as long as the super steels but they are a breeze to sharpen back up to hair splitting. (Like doing a touch up hone on the bottom of a coffee cup for instance lol) Just something to think about.
 
Olumin said:
In a slip joint I want a thinly ground blade with acute edge geometry for slicing. I dont like patinas or rust, and in folders you cant get around touching the blade every time you use it, so I dont bother with non-stainless in folders.

So the best steel for me would be something that combines corrosion resistance with good edge retention and high edge stability. Id also want it to sharpen and strop up fairly easily and quickly. That would be something like 14c28n hardened to the maximum 62-63hrc. Basically the same kinda steels you'd use for a razor blade.
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Sounds like you need a stainless Opinel. 12c27 rather than 14c28n, but similar enough, and at that level of thinness? Thing's a slicing machine
 
I have 12c27 (basically AEB-L) in Boker Tech Tools (the Boker SAK?) and Laguiole, D2 in Queens, ATS34 (=154CM) in S&M, 420HC, 20CV, CPM154 and Magnacut in Buck, and Cruwear in Boker Tree. Plus different carbon steels, of course.
 
birdsbeaks said:
What's wrong with polishing compound and/or diamond paste?
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Like a stone they remove a minute amount of metal each time you use them. While it may take years, eventually the blades will wear down.
Also, if you don't hold the same angle as with the stone when using diamond paste, you're changing the edge angle.
 
Lenny said:
Their site currently only lists one knife with S35VN and it's out of stock, bummer.
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They also had a run of 6318 medium stockman and regular trapper with 20CV blades. I also highly recommend Viper/Fox/Lionsteel slipjoints with M390 blades.

Lesknife said:
I’ve been wondering and looking for feedback on the Case knives that came out in s35vn and 20cv. I think they had a large trapper and medium stockman in both steels. Has anyone tested them for edge retention and wear? Or what their heat treatment and hrc is ?
Click to expand...

I have a 20CV 6318 medium stockman. I haven’t used it enough to give a definitive report but so far I think it is comparable to Viper/Fox/Lionsteel M390. I emailed Case and they said that they run their 20CV at 60-61HRC.
 
afishhunter said:
Like a stone they remove a minute amount of metal each time you use them. While it may take years, eventually the blades will wear down.
Also, if you don't hold the same angle as with the stone when using diamond paste, you're changing the edge angle.
Click to expand...
good point, I keep one side of my double sided strop loaded and the other bare. I feel like the compound helps with removing the more stubborn burrs, but the bare side is fine for a quick touch up. I have a strop loaded with diamond paste but I don't think I've ever used it for a 1095 blade, only the more modern stuff.
 
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