Best steels for Knives ?

S

Scott Evans

Joined
Oct 4, 1998
Messages
193
Best steels for Knives ?


I would like to hear from some makers as to what the best materials currently available are for a double edge knife with the intend use being primarily tactical. What I have in mind is a 5-6” blade with a full tang from 0.250” stock. What would you recommend and why?

Then what would you recommend for the hardening and finishing of the selected steel?
 
primarily tactical i ll bite on this one


mall ninja tactical dagger or:D
real tactical hard use military type
sharpened pry bar

you have to tell use what style / use the blade is for "tactical" has been beat to death
and remember great steel can be messed up and "ok" steel can be done right
not tring to be an arse btw
butch
 
As a Tactical Offense Mall Ninja (of the Clan Galleria Courtyard), I'd have to say I prefer a blade of depleted uranium. That way, using the force granted me through years of virtual training I can penetrate a tank's armor and cause spalling to destroy the occupants as well as any sensitive electronics.:D

On the other hand, in the real world, I prefer properly heat treated high carbon steels such as 1095 or 5160... easy to sharpen, not too big of a deal to take care of, and can be differentially hardened, so use as a prybar isn't necessarily out of the question (in a pinch).
 
MrPurple said:
As a Tactical Offense Mall Ninja (of the Clan Galleria Courtyard), I'd have to say I prefer a blade of depleted uranium. That way, using the force granted me through years of virtual training I can penetrate a tank's armor and cause spalling to destroy the occupants as well as any sensitive electronics.:D
Click to expand...

And it has self-sharpening capabilities at high speed and temperature, much better than tungsten penetrator head :)

Btw. how can you have "sharpened prybar" sharpened from both sides and still being prybar? :D
 
Best steels for Knives :(
that's like asking for the best brand of beer..:o


Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posts: 191

I'm thinking you might know better :) and trolling a little bit maybe :)
 
Dan Gray said:
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posts: 191

I'm thinking you might know better :) and trolling a little maybe :)
Click to expand...


WOW joined 8 years ago thanks for pointing that out
last post before this in 2001
 
butcher_block said:
WOW joined 8 years ago thanks for pointing that out
last post before this in 2001
Click to expand...
I see you changed your post :D :D I did too.. so don't feel bad:D

he knows what's up:) rrrr or down :D
 
Wow the crowd has changed a bit …:(

“Tactical” I see is on the banned word list too…

A Troll? I don’t think so … Search my history before accusing me of that.

This used to be the place where one could find reasonable answers from reasonably knowledgeable makers. I’m sure that it still is.

I’ll start again and add a little more info. This morning I was pressed for time and attempted to keep it short.

Best steel in your opinion for a double edge knife primarily for field use as may be appropriate for a person in the military. Not a sharpened “pry bar” rather a thrusting weapon that has good cutting edges as well. The best compromise between strength, sharpness, and durability. I will be attempting to make one or two knives of this type over the next few weeks. To date I have made two knives (Prototypes) out of O-1. They are reasonably strong but they do not take the edge that I had hoped for. (I’ll try to attach a picture.) I’m sure that my biggest problem is that I did not heat treat the blades properly. This morning I began looking for some stock for the next evolution of my dagger project and realized that there are many NEW blade steels since my last attempt (4 or 5 years). I was hoping for some helpful information and was curious as to what the pros and serious makers were using and why. I am not a knife maker but knives are a hobby that I never seem to have the time for. In my business I see many knives as we make Kydex holsters and knife sheaths. I’m not looking to expanding into the knife making BUSINESS. I’m just having some fun and I want to keep it that way. I know plenty about making molds for forming plastic and have a full CAD/CAM set up in my shop but I know jack compared to a real knife maker about producing a quality blade.

Again any help will be appreciated.
 
Tactical
Scott, I was going to post one of my smart A$$ answers but you seem serious.
Tactical has a bad reputation because it's over used and misunderstood. The pry bar style knife is a far better tool than a Katana but the mall ninjas would rather have the Katana because it's tactical.

What you are looking for is a weapon. I have no idea how tactical, but a weapon like a dagger. I would recommend 5160. It's a good all around steel, good edge holding, easy to grind or forge, easy to heat treat. Next in line, O1 with the 10XXXX following right behind.
 
Scott I did search that's why I changed my post :)
yes more serious than I thought too,, where you've been around for some time now, I didn't really think you were serious, joking as the trolling went

yes what Don said about the steel types but I would pick in a different order :D the ht aspect doesn't sway me..O1 will cost more.

that's all the groveling you'll get from me:)
 
5160 if you are doing it yourself and only have but so much HT expertise. - easy to work,forgiving to HT,tough,gets fairly sharp.
1095 or W2 if you have fairly good HT control and experience. - Hard,razor sharp,tough.
D-2 for very tough,great edge - great for cutting flesh,but not for cutting paper. - send out for HT.Good for the desert,not for the swamp.
S90V for super tough,hard,sharp and stainless - sent out for HT.
Stacy
 
Thanks,
For the suggestions. I have enough O-1 left for two more knives. I think what I’ll do is use the O-1 I have and try to do a better Heat treat. Once I get this right I’ll start experimenting with the other materials mentioned. I know I could send it off for the HT but I really want to try to do everything from start to finish myself and still come away with a knife I can be proud of.

I can’t post pictures but if anyone is interested I can e-mail a pic of my last knife to someone here who can if they don’t mind putting it up.

Thanks again.
 
No body wants to stick their toe out and say 52100? I'm a 5160 fan(Thanks to Dan the man), but do like 52100 also.
 
rhrocker said:
No body wants to stick their toe out and say 52100? I'm a 5160 fan(Thanks to Dan the man), but do like 52100 also.
Click to expand...
I will !
If I see a knife I like from a certain maker and he loves 52100 and uses it a lot ( meaning he is a 52100 expert) ?
52100 it shall be !!!
 
In stainless, S30V or ATS-34 heat treated by Paul Bos, S30V has more edge holding and stainless qualities, but is harder to finish and sharpen.

In carbon steel 5160, easy to heat treat and very forgiving for beginners. Next would be O-1. I'm not a real big fan of O-1, it's a good steel, but I just don't like the feel of the edge, my personal prefferance. I would not recomend 52100 for a beginner heat treater. I started with 52100, but I destroyed a lot of knives to get what little understanding I have of it now. If done rite to me it has the best ballance of all steels I've tried, but it is not for the faint of heart.

Good luck and post a pic when your done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top