best survival folder

I would take whatever you're comfortable with.

Maybe a Manix2 XL, ball bearing lock is sturdy.

Spyderco-Manix-2-XL-Black+(1).jpg
 
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Dragonram7,

As you've mentioned, Swisstool/Leatherman would be your first choice; personally, I'd favor Swisstool Spirit for its quality, but appreciate LM Charge TTi if one-hand opening is essential.

We'd observed many repeated mentioning of SAK Trekker, and that's probably my top choice for 'folding knife'/multitool too, considering weight/tool/performance.


As for the list you have:
Bm940
Bm810
No xm-18 but crk large sabenza
Zt301 (never use #51)
Swiss champ
Cs voyager x2
Dpx hest
Microtech L-udt (never used)
Kershaw Emerson auto commander
Cs recon 1 lock back not triad
Emerson cqc10
Bm5000 axis auto
I have so many sd microtechs
Spyderco Dallara drop point
I have considered both zt 550 and 560
Xm18 are scarce.

Many of them I don't have, but if it has to be chosen from the list, I'd recommend something that you EDC and use often, sturdy for hardwork and easily replaceable. It's not a contest for the 'strongest' folder, but something that you find most comfortable to use for hours if needed and up for the job. I'm just a firm believer that the sharpest tool in wilderness(or even urban) should always be our minds. :)
 
dragonram7 said:
I'm looking for your opinion:
As part of a residency for graduate school, we are headed up into the mountains. After signing all the AD&D waivers, we are allowed to bring one folding knife. No lodges, no cell phone coverage, no Leathermans, no guns, no fixed blades. Animals: bear, mountain lions, wolves, coyote, fox, etc. What is the FOLDER YOU would take and why? I'll be up in the Uintas for a week.
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What do you mean residency for graduate school? Who is going to prevent you from carrying things?
 
I dont own one but the post about the bm adamus made me curious so I looked it up on youtube there's a video of some russian dude beating the hell out of his adamus. Pretty impressive
 
coldblooded357 said:
I dont own one but the post about the bm adamus made me curious so I looked it up on youtube there's a video of some russian dude beating the hell out of his adamus. Pretty impressive
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And did you see where they test the lock strength, to around 1600 pounds? Where liner only went to 170 pounds, and smaller type axis locks to 660 or something.

And people who suggested manix are crazy. You tube thesetwo videos please. Manix is awesome knife... but not strong enough for hard use.

Griptillian hard use test
SpyderCo manix hard use.

And while you at it >> Breaking the benchmade griptillian. (I think it's that)

Sorry to say, but if it's not axis, you will break your knife.
Not too experienced on compression locks however. But in theory it should also be very very strong like axis

Anyone had a compression lock fail? Or info on the matter
 
JasonG said:
And did you see where they test the lock strength, to around 1600 pounds? Where liner only went to 170 pounds, and smaller type axis locks to 660 or something.

And people who suggested manix are crazy. You tube thesetwo videos please

Griptillian hard use test
SpyderCo manix hard use.

And while you at it >> Breaking the benchmade griptillian. (I think it's that)

Sorry to say, but if it's not axis, you will break your knife.
Not too experienced on compression locks however. But in theory it should also be very very strong like axis

Anyone had a compression lock fail? Or info on the matter
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You don't need high lock strength if you don't do anything that doesn't require high lock strength.

If it's not an axis lock you'll break the knife? I'd better go make sure my slipjoints, liner locks, frame locks, ring locks, and back lock knives aren't broken!
 
You obviously haven't been chopping or abusing your knife as the subject predicts. Get nasty with them and you might as well throw them away. . . Use it as a normal knife then cool. But knowing youhave overbuilt knife in the wilderness is much better advice then suggesting a knife that will collapse after he does his first wood shavings for a fire. ..

Can't argue facts my man. . . Might as well go to war with a 9k ppk then. You'll be great...
 
There will always be an argument for a knife that is able to baton with high lock strength, however, it seems people have forgotten about collecting twigs as a means to start a fire rather then a log that one wants to split.

That being said, nothing wrong with the SAK Farmer.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1035644-Victorinox-Farmer-splitting-log-and-fire

martineden said:
It’s always possible to find dry wood for a fire, the internal side of the branches is in fact enough dry also if the external part is pretty wet.
It is possible to arrive at the internal side of a big branch also with an humble Victorinox 91 mm, as the Farmer


Let’s see how. First, I saw the branch until the middle (not more)



Now, with the sawed side external, hit the branch against a tree


After a couple hitting, the branch began to split


Again a couple of hitting, and it’s done



Anyway, for afire I need to split again the log, so I cut another piece of wood from the branch


I now had two pieces of wood


I wok one of them, I want to obtain a sort of nog


Now, I use the blade of my Farmer to baton, carefully, the log that I want to split, to made a split




Using the nog, I baton until I split the log




Note that my Victorinox Farmer is still in perfect shape, using it to split the big branch but in a smart way


Now I found the dry part of the branch, so I may cut long and thin feathers




And I had the fire



Conclusions: a fire in the woods is always possible, is great having a good fixed blade, but you may making fire also using a small multitool knowing the proper techniques.

Ciao,
Alfredo
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JasonG said:
You obviously haven't been chopping or abusing your knife as the subject predicts. Get nasty with them and you might as well throw them away. . . Use it as a normal knife then cool. But knowing youhave overbuilt knife in the wilderness is much better advice then suggesting a knife that will collapse after he does his first wood shavings for a fire. ..

Can't argue facts my man. . . Might as well go to war with a 9k ppk then. You'll be great...
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I have never had a folder collapse on me and to suggest that knives not featuring an axis lock will collapse after producing wood shavings for the first time is utter nonsense.

The sum of a folding knife is not the locking mechanism, not all liner locks are equal, not all frame locks are equal, blade geometry, thickness, steel, etc etc.
 
untamed said:
Besides a SAK Trekker, considering your requirements, I second someone's suggestion with one of the large to extra-large Cold Steels. Furthermore it has all of the three features below to supplement your needs -

1. CHEAP enough so as not to make you too upset should you lose/break it in the sticks.

2. STURDY and capable enough to be used heavily (er, I'd use "STRONG" for fixed blades!).

3. BIG enough for your hands and to accomplish a variety of tasks (if you are going to use them heavily for long periods, a FULL ENOUGH grip will be a God-send).

4. Oh yeah, costs CHEAP (see #1).

Noz_Cold_Steel_Voyager_Large_Clip_Point_29TLCH.jpg
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Couldn't agree more. I travel to some of the worst places in the world with my blades and recently acquired the XL Voyager to take along. I liked the idea of such a large folder but wasn't sure of it's durability in the field. Although I didn't baton with it, I feel sure after what I put it through it would be fine. I did a lot of chopping and cutting and wasn't disappointed. For the price, you can't go wrong. If you break it doing something that wasn't really a job for a folder but a large fixed blade, you aren't heartbroken like you would be if you had broken a much pricier knife. I have a lot of knives, CS knives are some that I abuse the most and they've held up great. Can't go wrong with this one.
 
Breaking after first shavings was a deliberate exaggeration... but cool.. . I carry frame locks primarily, but if it's one knife for wilderness. Axis Adamas is what I would be confident in.
 
SAK

Grease said:
Anything with decent stainless steel and a solid lock would serve quite well.
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SoCal_kid said:
Seems like rust resistance and edge retention should be your primary concern.
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Why?

The OP is going to spend a limited amount of time in what I assume are mountains in Utah/Wyoming.
This time of year, the weather shouldnt be too bad for carbon steel with proper care.
I saw no stipulation against bringing a small piece of cloth or a rag AND one of those micro-bottles of BreakFree for wiping the blade after use.
With proper care, I see no problem with bringing for example a carbon blade as opposed to the SAK, that I suggested myself.

I like both rust resistant knives and carbon steel blades, but in this case would not see rust retention as being a huge factor, as the OP should be able to circumvent that problem with (relative) ease hence the advantages of a carbon steel blade MAY outweigh the advantage of rust resistance.

NB Im not disputing your guys comments - Im asking.
 
The Benchmade Adamas is a great knife, and I have one too, but they said bring a "pocket knife" not a "folding axe". lol.
The weight would probably be annoying after a while - I EDCed a Benchmade Rukus for a while which is the same weight.

I would say:

SAK Trekker (if allowed)
RAT-1 folder
Benchmade Griptilian or Mini Griptilian
Buck Vantage Pro 342 or 347

The Buck Vantage Pro I really like - it's a very reasonably priced S30V knife (~$60).

Toshi
 
I was able to check out the ZT561, ZT550, and Spyderco Tuff. Love all 3 knives. The Tuff and 561 fit my hand the best. I'll go to blade hq tomorrow and look at recommendations.
 
I would bring a zt 030x series knife. It isn't my favorite zt but it deals the toughest to me and I think it could take the most abuse out of all of them.
 
Everyone that you are going with will have a "regular" knife. If you can get away with it, why not bring one of these - http://www.harmonyfarm.com/fanno-folding-pruning-saw-8-5-inch-blade/

If you guys can work together, you will have the advantage for sawing/cutting stuff down. If you can't work together, you can still do the survival things you would need to. Ie. saw dust for tender. You can burn-and-grind to make a spear. But I'm betting you can work with the people you are going with, so this would be an added piece of kit.

If it is allowed the Victorinox is probably the best bet.

Just a thought.
 
You are going into the wilderness for a week and will probably return fine.

The minute, academic differences between quality knives will go unnoticed. There is very little difference in the performance of quality knives in the hands of an experienced user. You are educated enough to distinguish a quality knife from junk and use it properly.

I suggest selecting the least expensive quality knife you own. Losing your knife in wet conditions, chipping the blade, and minor lock failure are your largest concerns. All of those relate to replacing the knife at retail cost. I suggest taking one of your Cold Steel Voyagers. It has been extensively tested and proven reliable. You already own it, and it would be dirt cheap to replace.
 
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