Best tape to protect blade while finishing handle

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We've been experimenting with a tumbler and finally have good results with it. This requires some new thinking for us because we generally do the finish grinding at the very end of the process. Now we need to be able to protect a finished blade all the way through the handle shaping process. How do y'all accomplish this. I've tried blue tape and got residue all over the blade, which was a pain to remove. Are there tricks? Certain kinds of tape best? I'd appreciate any advice you have.
 
I'm all over the place with projects.
If I put it down, I may not get back on it for years.
So I like a good film that will protect for that long.



I use a bit of Vaseline / grease on the blade for carbon steel.

Then I wrap tape around and around it, but I use the tape inside out - sticky side out

Then I turn it around and do a layer sticky side in.


It works best with electrical tape, or something with some stretch.
The tight fit and strech is what holds it on.


I've wanted to try pallet wrap - like saran wrap too.
stretchy, sticks to itself, see through.
http://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...s/Uline-Stretch-Wrap-Blown-60-gauge-12-x-2000
 
I have always used the blue painters tape and the residue cleaned off with acetone easily . Now on that note though , I just got some home depot blue tape and it hardly even sticks to itself so that may work for you . I have heard a lot of folks use electrical tape .
 
Thanks to both of you. I'll try those methods. The vaseline sounds great, because I'm using 01.
 
I'm in the same boat and my blades are pretty well finished when I'm finishing the handle.
I make a pocket or pouch using the silver duct tape where you remove the white cover paper from the adhesive side. Cut the duct tape twice the length of the blade and lay it at the edge of a flat surface with the adhesive bared. Place the WD40 coated blade down on the surface of the duct tape, because of the WD40 it won't stick. Remove the paper coating from the other half of the duct tape and fold "evenly" back on itself; press the edges of the duct tape together. This will seal the pouch with out the adhesive sticking to the blade. To hold the pouch in place wrap a piece of electricians tape around the pouch where it adjoins the handle.
When you have finished the handle work the pouch can be removed from the blade by tearing along the edges leaving you with a clean blade coated in WD40 for protection. I got tired of cleaning the adhesive of the blades surface; thats how the pouch idea came into being.

Fred
 
Please be careful about using painter's tape for this task. I used it for a time, but found that if left on for a period of time it will cause pitting and discoloration especially along the open edges of the tape. I've used it on fixed and hidden tang blades with the same result and have had to abandon/destroy several nice blades because of this.

Nick Wheeler suggested his method of using phone book paper or newspaper around the blade then secured with electrical tape. I haven't had an issue since the switch.

-Peter
 
I use a green masking tape that 3-m makes,I buy it from an auto parts store locally. It's stickeyer than the blue painters tape but comes off without tearing up. I wrap it round and round till its thick enough to protect from accidental grinds while I'm finish shaping my handles. It's more expensive than the blue stuff but it's worth it.
 
I just use a paper towel wrapped tightly around the blade, then blue painter's tape. Works OK for me.
 
I just use a small spray bottle to squirt some oil on the blade then wrap with phone book paper and electrical tape. I have to remove it when working on the spine of full tangs tho just to get everything to match....

I've yet to find a good tape only option though. Excited to see if anyone has found a better way!
 
I use the blue 3M tape, but like Peter said it can cause discoloration if left on too long, particularly something like O1. I stick it on one side and go the length of the blade, wrap it over the tip, then back down to the ricasso. It leaves residue if you stick it to oily steel but renaissance wax doesn't cause a problem.

If the holes in the tang and the scales are a snug fit, you can pin the scales temporarily to grind them flush to the tang, remove them and finish them off the knife. I'm weird, but I usualy finish the blade 100%, including sharpening, before I attach the scales.
 
I have been using exterior masking tape from scotch. Someone on here turned me on to it. It's expensive. But last a long time. It comes off in one pull, I run it length ways down the blade. I don't let it stay on for too long, especially if it has been around water. I couldn't find it a the hardware store, had to go to sherwin Williams.
 
I found a use for all those old phone books. I wrap a page of phone book around the blade then electrical tape around that. The phone book pages don't soak up water like paper towels and keeps the blade from pitting like blue tape can if left a long time.
 
I used wide painter's tape for years without a problem... then Pete McKinley cursed me and ruined everything!

Now, I "Nick" it with phone book pages and electrical tape. But first I wipe it down with heavy mineral oil.
 
Oil, paper, tape. Set it and forget it. Everything else I've tried has caused one or more problems, especially the longer it sits.
 
Yeah toilet paper with electrical tape works good and is pretty easy on a hand rubbed finish. Painters tape works fine for a quick fix and I use it over fitting and bolsters all the time. Two or 3-layers will give you a guide for a museum/heirloom fit. Residue comes off with WD-40 and a q-tip like buffing rogue.


I almost never use acetone except for degreasing steel wool for carding. 95% Isopropyl works for just about everything and leaves no residue behind that affects finishes, has less random additives that may leave residue that denatured alcohol may or may not have.
 
I've used 2" wide clear packing tape applying it length wise. Creates a good seal and cleans up easily with acetone.
 
The green tape was mentioned, it's great stuff and I use it all the time- but not for wrapping blades, at least not to stick to them. Found out in a sad way that hand sanded 15n20 blades corrode pretty cheerfully inside green tape :(
Oiled blade, paper liner, tape on the outside, like pretty much everyone else.
 
Salem Straub said:
I just use a paper towel wrapped tightly around the blade, then blue painter's tape. Works OK for me.
Click to expand...

and now the cheap version: I keep a box of Kleenex on top of my drill press and a roll of whatever tape is close and cheap (I prefer electrical). If im doing a "pouch" that I will be removing and replacing during sanding or shaping, I make a loose fitting blade sheath from paper or papertowel, then I just tape it on with 1/2" of tape and voila.
 
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