Best technique for sanding around the tang between the scales?

S

Shannon Carter

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Mar 26, 2012
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Just curious if anyone would share their techniques for finishing the tang/top and bottom of the knife between the handle material? My last steps have been etching my maker's mark on the top of the knife and doing the final sanding around the tang with a 600 grit belt. I then use Scotch-Brite pads to finish up (hand material was also hand sanded to 600 grit). I've had good "luck" so far, but the problem I run into sometimes with this method is I have to be careful about not making small flat spots in the handle material. I've also tried hand sanding with 600 grit paper, but it seem to leave tiny scratches where I quickly switch directions back and forth.

Thanks ahead of time,
Shannon
 
Shannon Carter said:
Just curious if anyone would share their techniques for finishing the tang/top and bottom of the knife between the handle material? My last steps have been etching my maker's mark on the top of the knife and doing the final sanding around the tang with a 600 grit belt. I then use Scotch-Brite pads to finish up (hand material was also hand sanded to 600 grit). I've had good "luck" so far, but the problem I run into sometimes with this method is I have to be careful about not making small flat spots in the handle material. I've also tried hand sanding with 600 grit paper, but it seem to leave tiny scratches where I quickly switch directions back and forth.

Thanks ahead of time,
Shannon
Click to expand...

Etch first, polish and then add handle ;)

I prefer to have the blade finished entirely then add the handle, taking care to protect the blade from glue and scratches.
 
ernestrome said:
Etch first, polish and then add handle ;)

I prefer to have the blade finished entirely then add the handle, taking care to protect the blade from glue and scratches.
Click to expand...
Interesting answer. What is your usual process for finishing the handle slabs prior to mounting them to the tang(is it the CA glue method)? How many knives have you done this way?
 
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You could try holding the handle slabs on with a drop or two of CA glue (and the pins in) and shaping/etc then just knock them off and do your blade polish separate and reassemble/glue. I haven't tried that, but it should work if you clean up the squeezed out glue as you put the slabs on with some acetone etc. Just an idea!
 
mgysgthath said:
You could try holding the handle slabs on with a drop or two of CA glue (and the pins in) and shaping/etc then just knock them off and do your blade polish separate and reassemble/glue. I haven't tried that, but it should work if you clean up the squeezed out glue as you put the slabs on with some acetone etc. Just an idea!
Click to expand...

That's what I do. Got that tip from Tobin Smith.
 
mgysgthath said:
You could try holding the handle slabs on with a drop or two of CA glue (and the pins in) and shaping/etc then just knock them off and do your blade polish separate and reassemble/glue. I haven't tried that, but it should work if you clean up the squeezed out glue as you put the slabs on with some acetone etc. Just an idea!
Click to expand...

I like that idea. :)
 
ernestrome said:
Etch first, polish and then add handle ;)

I prefer to have the blade finished entirely then add the handle, taking care to protect the blade from glue and scratches.
Click to expand...

I really don't see any problem with this method because it is what I do as well: Grind/HT the blade; cut the handle material to shape; drill scales; sand, shape, and polish the front of the scales; hand sand the blade; glue/peen/screw the scales on; then clean everything up while the glue is up; then finish shaping the handle while the blade is protected.
 
Very interesting way of going about this... would have never considered that, but I will have to give it a shot. Just to see if I can do it.
Thanks.

ernestrome said:
Etch first, polish and then add handle ;)

I prefer to have the blade finished entirely then add the handle, taking care to protect the blade from glue and scratches.
Click to expand...
 
mgysgthath said:
You could try holding the handle slabs on with a drop or two of CA glue (and the pins in) and shaping/etc then just knock them off and do your blade polish separate and reassemble/glue. I haven't tried that, but it should work if you clean up the squeezed out glue as you put the slabs on with some acetone etc. Just an idea!
Click to expand...

Another interesting option that I'll have to try. Thanks again.
 
I also finish the blade first, then front of scales, then glue up and finish handle.

It's the easiest way to finish a 3 piece knife.
 
mgysgthath said:
You could try holding the handle slabs on with a drop or two of CA glue (and the pins in) and shaping/etc then just knock them off and do your blade polish separate and reassemble/glue. I haven't tried that, but it should work if you clean up the squeezed out glue as you put the slabs on with some acetone etc. Just an idea!
Click to expand...

I do this, but without CA when doing a full tang damascus blade and want the etched pattern to show on the tang.
 
Oh that is a good idea, the bolts, easy to put together and take apart as many times as you need. I need to get a step drill and try some of those!
 
Corby bolts are the bee's knees. I could live without epoxy but I'd really be sad if I could never get corby's again. You don't need a step drill... it's easy enough to drill for the shafts, then the shoulders.

Anyway yeah buy some and cut the slots in a couple pair deeper... then you can fully shape/polish the tang and scales all the way around, remove the bolts, glue it up with new bolts and wipe it down. All you'll need to do is bring the bolts down flush and finish polishing the sides.
 
Thanks for all of the good suggestions. I messed around with this again last night... ended up going back to a 600 grit belt, but slowed the grinder way down to 20% - 30% range. This seemed to help me control things a little better.
 
Shannon Carter said:
Thanks for all of the good suggestions. I messed around with this again last night... ended up going back to a 600 grit belt, but slowed the grinder way down to 20% - 30% range. This seemed to help me control things a little better.
Click to expand...

IF you're going to use belts, a jflex and/or slack belt section helps to not get flat facets too.
 
Shannon Carter said:
I've also tried hand sanding with 600 grit paper, but it seem to leave tiny scratches where I quickly switch directions back and forth.
Click to expand...

also don't change directions.
brush. brush. brush.
don't scrub.
 
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