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Best trap building Web site?
- Thread starter DaleW
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2006
- Messages
- 131
I have spent hours on the 'net looking for information on traps and snares. I have also searched for books and knowledgable people.
I have not yet found the 'holy grail' of trapping information...although I do once remember seeing a book many years ago which seemed to contain a lot of interesting historical material regarding traps, but I can't recall the title :grumpy:
There seems to be quite a bit on the 'net about trapping. However much of it is repeated from site to site. I think some of the best information turns up at places like Bladeforums or Paleoplanet when people who have really trapped honestly share what they know.
The best trappers with the best ideas may have never used a computer.
Fortunately there is enough information around to get us 'started' with trapping. Although I've come across many trap designs I mainly use two types of trap. Using one or the other of these, I believe it would be possible to catch any animal that I know of if the materials and environment were suitable. These are not secret designs....one is the simple snare, and the other is the figure-four deadfall.
Even though I have had considerable success so far, I still look out for new trap information because the whole thing fascinates me. And I still have problems with my current 'technology'.
There are some do-it-yourself trap designs around which, although they might work, seem far more complicated than they need to be. They might have a fascinating design, or be satisfying to whittle...but they are probably no more effective than a simple snare or deadfall. Having said that though...I believe that there are times when a spring-up snare or some other device would offer a significant advantage.
Rather than have masses of information on trap designs, I think it is probably more important to have as much understanding as possible regarding the habits of the 'target' animals....what attracts them, where do they like to travel, how high is their head from the ground, are they scared of 'man' smell, how do they react when trapped or startled, what do they eat, what are the seasonal patterns, how much do they weigh, how hard can they 'pull', how tough is their skull, how often do they need to drink, where do they like to sleep or make a nest etc etc ??????
Besides being interested in traps and snares, I am constantly on the lookout for information on metaphysics and the nature of reality... the 'meaning of life' if you like. And there is a heap of information around on this type of thing. But I've found that the search for 'truth' and the best way to trap are similar in one way... we have to learn about the ideas we like...and then try to apply them in our day-to-day lives to see what happens. You can read or collect all the information in the world, but to really understand you have to apply the ideas to your own experience thus testing them in the laboratory that is your life.
Dang, that was deep
I think a good way to start to get useful knowledge is to ask a specific question. Is there any particular information on a particular trap or trapping situation that you need? Maybe somebody here might be able to provide a clue.
Good topic thanks.
I have not yet found the 'holy grail' of trapping information...although I do once remember seeing a book many years ago which seemed to contain a lot of interesting historical material regarding traps, but I can't recall the title :grumpy:
There seems to be quite a bit on the 'net about trapping. However much of it is repeated from site to site. I think some of the best information turns up at places like Bladeforums or Paleoplanet when people who have really trapped honestly share what they know.
The best trappers with the best ideas may have never used a computer.
Fortunately there is enough information around to get us 'started' with trapping. Although I've come across many trap designs I mainly use two types of trap. Using one or the other of these, I believe it would be possible to catch any animal that I know of if the materials and environment were suitable. These are not secret designs....one is the simple snare, and the other is the figure-four deadfall.
Even though I have had considerable success so far, I still look out for new trap information because the whole thing fascinates me. And I still have problems with my current 'technology'.
There are some do-it-yourself trap designs around which, although they might work, seem far more complicated than they need to be. They might have a fascinating design, or be satisfying to whittle...but they are probably no more effective than a simple snare or deadfall. Having said that though...I believe that there are times when a spring-up snare or some other device would offer a significant advantage.
Rather than have masses of information on trap designs, I think it is probably more important to have as much understanding as possible regarding the habits of the 'target' animals....what attracts them, where do they like to travel, how high is their head from the ground, are they scared of 'man' smell, how do they react when trapped or startled, what do they eat, what are the seasonal patterns, how much do they weigh, how hard can they 'pull', how tough is their skull, how often do they need to drink, where do they like to sleep or make a nest etc etc ??????
Besides being interested in traps and snares, I am constantly on the lookout for information on metaphysics and the nature of reality... the 'meaning of life' if you like. And there is a heap of information around on this type of thing. But I've found that the search for 'truth' and the best way to trap are similar in one way... we have to learn about the ideas we like...and then try to apply them in our day-to-day lives to see what happens. You can read or collect all the information in the world, but to really understand you have to apply the ideas to your own experience thus testing them in the laboratory that is your life.
Dang, that was deep
I think a good way to start to get useful knowledge is to ask a specific question. Is there any particular information on a particular trap or trapping situation that you need? Maybe somebody here might be able to provide a clue.
Good topic thanks.
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2006
- Messages
- 5,944
Coote..You are a gentleman and a scholar..Good luck in the search for the truth, it is an arduous and unending journey. I'd like some info on head height of various game species, rabbits, grouse, quail, etc
Some of the British boys set their rabbit snares around five and a half inches from the ground....and maybe six inches in taller grass. The snare might be a bit oval...say five inches tall and seven inches wide. They set them over the 'beats'... the spot where the rabbits land and spring from on the trail. But these are the European rabbits (that have been introduced to my country).
Here's what I've read about snaring in the USA.
Coyote - 12" diameter maybe 10" or 12" off the ground.
Beaver - 10" diameter maybe 2" or 3" off the ground.
Possums and groundhogs - 6" diameter and about 2" above the ground.
Coons - 8" diameter and about 4" to 8" off the ground (but I have seen other measurements for coons).
Of course if an animal is sniffing scent he'll have his head lower than if he is just trotting along an open trail. And different trappers in different areas might think that the sizes I've quoted are quite wrong.
There seem to be heaps of knowledgable trappers in the USA. Here's where you can read what they've posted...and maybe even ask them questions:
http://www.trapperman.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/postlist/Board/1/page/1
http://snaremantalk.com/phpBB2/index.php
I've never snared a quail, but I've seen reference to it in 'Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping' by W.Hamilton Gibson. This book is available at the Gutenberg site as shown by Minipyro in the first reply to this post....although I haven't browsed through the e-version to see if the quail snares are shown. Although the quail snares might be shown in this book, I don't think I've ever noticed a reference to snare size or height. If I wanted a Californian quail, I reckon I'd lay some snares over openings in a 'mini hedge' that might be three inches in diameter and two inches off the ground. If in doubt about the height I would try to force the target animal/bird through an opening that they should be naturally comfortable with. And bait might make an animal put its head in the right spot. Trial, error and experience will eventually reveal the best dimensions.
I know I've said it before, but I want to say again that although wire and wire cable are used widely for snares nowadays, it is not necessary to use wire in every case. Wire has advantages and disadvantages. I use synthetic rope or cord and have had great success with it.
Here's what I've read about snaring in the USA.
Coyote - 12" diameter maybe 10" or 12" off the ground.
Beaver - 10" diameter maybe 2" or 3" off the ground.
Possums and groundhogs - 6" diameter and about 2" above the ground.
Coons - 8" diameter and about 4" to 8" off the ground (but I have seen other measurements for coons).
Of course if an animal is sniffing scent he'll have his head lower than if he is just trotting along an open trail. And different trappers in different areas might think that the sizes I've quoted are quite wrong.
There seem to be heaps of knowledgable trappers in the USA. Here's where you can read what they've posted...and maybe even ask them questions:
http://www.trapperman.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/postlist/Board/1/page/1
http://snaremantalk.com/phpBB2/index.php
I've never snared a quail, but I've seen reference to it in 'Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping' by W.Hamilton Gibson. This book is available at the Gutenberg site as shown by Minipyro in the first reply to this post....although I haven't browsed through the e-version to see if the quail snares are shown. Although the quail snares might be shown in this book, I don't think I've ever noticed a reference to snare size or height. If I wanted a Californian quail, I reckon I'd lay some snares over openings in a 'mini hedge' that might be three inches in diameter and two inches off the ground. If in doubt about the height I would try to force the target animal/bird through an opening that they should be naturally comfortable with. And bait might make an animal put its head in the right spot. Trial, error and experience will eventually reveal the best dimensions.
I know I've said it before, but I want to say again that although wire and wire cable are used widely for snares nowadays, it is not necessary to use wire in every case. Wire has advantages and disadvantages. I use synthetic rope or cord and have had great success with it.
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2006
- Messages
- 5,944
Thanks for the great info..What types of knots do you use??
What sort of knots do I use?.... A variety I guess.
My snares generally do not have locking eyes. Although locks may offer some advantages, I have found that I can catch things without them. So the eyes of my snares are mostly just a loop tied on the end of the cord or rope. I like to think that if an animal breaks the snare and runs off with it attached, the free-running eye will allow the snare to fall off the animal more easily and it won't be forced to wear a snare for life.
With three ply rope I have sometimes spliced a small eye. Other times I have simply doubled the end of the cord and tied a simple overhand knot in the doubled portion to form a loop.
Nowadays, I mostly use a bowline to form the loop. This means that if I want to use the snare cord for anything else I can easily untie the loop. I've started to use the 'Dutch' bowline which has the tag end poking out of the knot to the side of the loop instead of popping up inside the loop. It probably doesn't matter which version of the bowline gets used, I just like the tag end to be out of the way to allow the eye to slide as easily as possible.
To join an 'extension' cord on to a snare where the cords are more or less the same size, I prefer to use a zepplin bend. These knots require a bit of thought to tie, but they seem to be incredibly reliable and are very easy to undo compared to other knots.
To anchor a snare to a post or tree I would often use a 'round turn and two half hitches'. The round turn takes a lot of the load....and I find these knots are relatively easy to undo when I collect my snares. This knot is the basis of what we've used to tie up our boat for years and we've never had a problem with it. I might add another half hitch if I'm a bit anxious.
Sometimes I use a bit of wire to support a snare when I'm setting the snare on a pole or branch. The wire is slipped under the snare cord at the point where it is tethered to the branch. This means that the cord has to be pulled tight around the branch to hold the wire in place. So I take a couple of wraps around the branch and use the tail of the cord to tie a rolling hitch around the main part of the cord. I slip the support wire under the wraps, then pull the knot tight. It grips well and is relatively easy to undo.
Here are some of the knots:
Zepplin Bend:
Round turn and two half hitches:
Standard bowline:
Snare tether knot:
Here's how I set up a pole (or branch) snare. This particular one is a wire snare which I've been experimenting with. It has a simple swaged eye which is free-running....no lock. The wire was marketed as stainless steel fishing trace. I have often used cord snares supported by a wire using a similar set-up.
I got up well before sunrise this morning to check my ten sets. Only got one possum, but five of the other snares had been knocked without catching anything. I find this to be quite a challenge. I'm snaring in an area where I've agreed to set all the snares in trees because there are a lot of dogs around. I'm fairly sure that I'd get better results setting the snares on trails on the ground. I need to get a better idea of how most possums behave when they are climbing a tree to investigate a lure smell...or to check out an apple which I've hung tantalizingly above them. I have had better catch to knock ratios for pole snares in some areas...perhaps possum behaviour differs according to season or locality? Never mind .... it is good to have something to think about.
Here's a possum caught in a pole snare that worked exactly like it should:
My snares generally do not have locking eyes. Although locks may offer some advantages, I have found that I can catch things without them. So the eyes of my snares are mostly just a loop tied on the end of the cord or rope. I like to think that if an animal breaks the snare and runs off with it attached, the free-running eye will allow the snare to fall off the animal more easily and it won't be forced to wear a snare for life.
With three ply rope I have sometimes spliced a small eye. Other times I have simply doubled the end of the cord and tied a simple overhand knot in the doubled portion to form a loop.
Nowadays, I mostly use a bowline to form the loop. This means that if I want to use the snare cord for anything else I can easily untie the loop. I've started to use the 'Dutch' bowline which has the tag end poking out of the knot to the side of the loop instead of popping up inside the loop. It probably doesn't matter which version of the bowline gets used, I just like the tag end to be out of the way to allow the eye to slide as easily as possible.
To join an 'extension' cord on to a snare where the cords are more or less the same size, I prefer to use a zepplin bend. These knots require a bit of thought to tie, but they seem to be incredibly reliable and are very easy to undo compared to other knots.
To anchor a snare to a post or tree I would often use a 'round turn and two half hitches'. The round turn takes a lot of the load....and I find these knots are relatively easy to undo when I collect my snares. This knot is the basis of what we've used to tie up our boat for years and we've never had a problem with it. I might add another half hitch if I'm a bit anxious.
Sometimes I use a bit of wire to support a snare when I'm setting the snare on a pole or branch. The wire is slipped under the snare cord at the point where it is tethered to the branch. This means that the cord has to be pulled tight around the branch to hold the wire in place. So I take a couple of wraps around the branch and use the tail of the cord to tie a rolling hitch around the main part of the cord. I slip the support wire under the wraps, then pull the knot tight. It grips well and is relatively easy to undo.
Here are some of the knots:
Zepplin Bend:
Round turn and two half hitches:
Standard bowline:
Snare tether knot:
Here's how I set up a pole (or branch) snare. This particular one is a wire snare which I've been experimenting with. It has a simple swaged eye which is free-running....no lock. The wire was marketed as stainless steel fishing trace. I have often used cord snares supported by a wire using a similar set-up.
I got up well before sunrise this morning to check my ten sets. Only got one possum, but five of the other snares had been knocked without catching anything. I find this to be quite a challenge. I'm snaring in an area where I've agreed to set all the snares in trees because there are a lot of dogs around. I'm fairly sure that I'd get better results setting the snares on trails on the ground. I need to get a better idea of how most possums behave when they are climbing a tree to investigate a lure smell...or to check out an apple which I've hung tantalizingly above them. I have had better catch to knock ratios for pole snares in some areas...perhaps possum behaviour differs according to season or locality? Never mind .... it is good to have something to think about.
Here's a possum caught in a pole snare that worked exactly like it should:
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 2,325
Coote,
I know you can sell the fur from those possums, how's the meat. Do you use bait on your snares or just set them on runs.
I have snared a lot of big lizards in south West Asia, they live in burrows and it is really easy to set a snare in the mouth of the burrow. I have some pics put they are not digital I will scan them at work next week. Chris
I know you can sell the fur from those possums, how's the meat. Do you use bait on your snares or just set them on runs.
I have snared a lot of big lizards in south West Asia, they live in burrows and it is really easy to set a snare in the mouth of the burrow. I have some pics put they are not digital I will scan them at work next week. Chris
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2006
- Messages
- 5,944
Thanks very informative...It's wonderful to have the benefit of such great knowledge
Thanks for the nice comments.
Yep, I eat a lot of possum meat. I generally keep only the hind legs and the backbone down to where the ribs start. I never eat the livers nowadays because if the possums are carrying poison residue, I understand that the liver is where a lot of it is stored. I didn't keep this morning's possum to eat because I got it relatively close to civilization and it would be more likely to have eaten poison laid by a householder....plus it was a bit skinny and bruised (presumably from fighting). The skin had holes in it unfortunately.
When I set snares on ground runs I generally don't use bait.... although sometimes I may drop a few slices of apple some distance from the snare to help attract attention... or maybe wipe a bit of fragrant lure on a tree nearby. If I put the bait close to the snare on a run, I think I might be causing the possum to have its head in an abnormal position... it might be sniffing the ground for instance and push the bottom of the snare aside.
I always use lure in conjunction with pole snares or bait cubby sets. You have to attract the possum to these snares.
Here's a pig I got using a snare I twisted together from fibres I pulled out of a very strong bit of synthetic rope. After I twisted the fibres together I soaked the whole cord in acrylic paint to help stop the fine fibres catching on things... and this also made the cord a bit stiffer.
Heres a pic of the dead pig as I found it:
And here it is hanging by the door of the cabin:
This was just a simple snare that was tethered to a strong branch above the track. I believe it is best to use a high anchor point whenever possible.
Yep, I eat a lot of possum meat. I generally keep only the hind legs and the backbone down to where the ribs start. I never eat the livers nowadays because if the possums are carrying poison residue, I understand that the liver is where a lot of it is stored. I didn't keep this morning's possum to eat because I got it relatively close to civilization and it would be more likely to have eaten poison laid by a householder....plus it was a bit skinny and bruised (presumably from fighting). The skin had holes in it unfortunately.
When I set snares on ground runs I generally don't use bait.... although sometimes I may drop a few slices of apple some distance from the snare to help attract attention... or maybe wipe a bit of fragrant lure on a tree nearby. If I put the bait close to the snare on a run, I think I might be causing the possum to have its head in an abnormal position... it might be sniffing the ground for instance and push the bottom of the snare aside.
I always use lure in conjunction with pole snares or bait cubby sets. You have to attract the possum to these snares.
Here's a pig I got using a snare I twisted together from fibres I pulled out of a very strong bit of synthetic rope. After I twisted the fibres together I soaked the whole cord in acrylic paint to help stop the fine fibres catching on things... and this also made the cord a bit stiffer.
Heres a pic of the dead pig as I found it:
And here it is hanging by the door of the cabin:
This was just a simple snare that was tethered to a strong branch above the track. I believe it is best to use a high anchor point whenever possible.