For utility purposes:
I really like spear points and drop points, as long as the grind is such that it is fairly pointy. I've see a number of forged drop points where the tip ended up being too obtuse/blunt, i.e. the belly had too short a radius, not enough gentle sweep. Chris Reeve has a great spear point type grind on his Project I:
http://www.chrisreeve.com/project.html
I even like drop points, if flat ground, for big camp knives... here is a great example with a flat grind and a convex final edge in a no-nonsense utilitarian design. For "camp knives", a clipped point is fine too if left with some meat for durability.
http://www.mullin-custom-knives.com/images/camp.jpg
I also like semi-skinners a lot, mostly for medium sized or larger game cleaning, especially if the grind is done so it has enough "point" left as well. But they are good utility blades also. I've never liked upswept blades where the point is above the spine, so the semi-skinner is a great compromise grind when you need a good bit of belly for skinning. The Spyderco Wegner is an example of a semi-skinner, but that Spyderco opening hole hump gets in the way and it doesn't quite have enough hump IMHO in the semi-skinner bump section. I own Dozier's nifty little K-8 model 3" semi-skinner, and I also had him make me one in that pattern but with a 3-3/4" blade, still thin and not tall, and it's a great game knife.
http://www.dozierknives.com/
What I've gotten used to calling a "spear point" is what is on the Spyderco Terzuola Starmate, or Terzuola's own custom Starfighter and ATCF. In truth, that blade style is probably more correctly described as a saber grind with a swedge, but everyone calls that "spear point" so I do too typically. That is probably my favorite all around grind. I think I'd prefer for such a grind to be done "flat" or at least with a 12" or 14" wheel so it was nearly flat (ala Darrel Ralph and others).
Every time I've used a wharncliffe or tanto blade, I've reaffirmed that I like drop points and spear points. With a wharncliffe, you seem to either be using the point, or you use the whole length of the blade when cutting something on a flat surface. No in-between. Point, or the whole length of blade.
With a knife that has some belly, you can use the point, use the belly (no point, but short section of blade), or use the flat/straight part of the blade on the back 2/3 of the knife. When you use the belly, the point stays out of the way.
The Sebenza has a great, practical blade profile, and Scott Cook's rendering of that blade shape in his Large Owyhee has a slightly thicker stock and thicker grind towards the point for strength, so it's even better in my book. I'd prefer these drop points be done flat ground or with a 14" wheel, but they are very nice anyway.
I love radiused spines on blades by the way. Jimping on spine? Usually no, but for self defense, sure, as long as it isn't left with really sharp edges for utility times.