Best way to chamfer odd or large shapes?

Daniel Fairly Knives

Daniel Fairly Knives

Full Time Knifemaker
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Jan 9, 2011
Messages
16,473
I'm looking for a way to efficiently chamfer odd shapes and large holes. Rounding would be OK too.

Odd shapes are tough and for big holes the bits get pricey fast. Any recommendations?

I'm working with titanium and steel.
 
Last edited:
you could get a countersink, they are big diameter and not that bad price. Nice and smooth too single flute alot less chatter then a bigger size drill bit.
 
How big a chamfer are we talking here? By using the word chamfer I am assuming you need it to be uniform all around?
 
Sam Salvati said:
you could get a countersink, they are big diameter and not that bad price. Nice and smooth too single flute alot less chatter then a bigger size drill bit.
Click to expand...

Thanks Sam!

I can get countersink bits up to 3/4 for cheap but the 1" ones I have looked at are a lot more, $60-150. :eek: I don't mind the price if that is the way to go.

I wondered if there was a cheaper alternative but in that size I can't think of much.

Ocelot85 said:
Exact shape descriptions or pictures would help alot.

For any sized hole a countersink and a mill / drill press is the best method.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countersink

If that doesn't have enough information, just let me know and I'll get back to you.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I should have mentioned I am familiar with machining, I just don't have a mill. If I had one I'd mill and chamfer all in one shot.

lol I need a mill, right! I must tell my wife.:D

Carl_First_Timer said:
How big a chamfer are we talking here? By using the word chamfer I am assuming you need it to be uniform all around?
Click to expand...

1" joined holes :eek:
slots
eliptical hole 1.25" x 3/4"

I may just tumble for a long time and see how that goes but Titanium is slow to work. For the steel I have planned I think that may work if I finish pre-heat treat.

Thanks again guys, I really appreciate you taking the time to help.
 
Tumbling will take a long long time to get any sort of material removal plus it will remove your crisp grind lines. How much are you looking to take off?

Would one of these work?

picture.jpg
 
Carl_First_Timer said:
Tumbling will take a long long time to get any sort of material removal plus it will remove your crisp grind lines. How much are you looking to take off?

Would one of these work?

picture.jpg
Click to expand...

Good question! I may try a deburring tool, I doubt it will do what I want but they sound nice to have around.

lol I do always have tough questions, I have spent days researching this. I think a combo of a big chamfer bit, hand filing and tumbling may be the way to go for me.

Now I just need to find a big chamfer bit for cheap, I think the best yet was Mcmaster for $45 ish...
 
I say file and sandpaper. :(
Probably would look the best, and shouldn't take too long?
 
Daniel, sounds like you need a router table with metal cutting, bearing guided bits. I don't know if something like that exists or not, but its what you need. Mabe one of those wet grinder tables for the stained glass hobbyists adapted for cone shaped abrasive wheels?


-Xander
 
If you're at all worried about precision or appearence go with a countersink.
 
Last edited:
BenR.T. said:
I say file and sandpaper. :(
Probably would look the best, and shouldn't take too long?
Click to expand...

I'll probably do some hand sanding and filing, just looking for a faster and cleaner way.

I need to look into what files work best with Titanium.

fast14riot said:
Daniel, sounds like you need a router table with metal cutting, bearing guided bits. I don't know if something like that exists or not, but its what you need. Mabe one of those wet grinder tables for the stained glass hobbyists adapted for cone shaped abrasive wheels?


-Xander
Click to expand...

I have considered some sort of a router table, I want to work on something like that. I actually have one of those wet grinding setups you mentioned too, I have thought about using it as well. I think I really need a mill! :D After I see how diamond works on Ti maybe I'll get a cone for the flat lap.

Ocelot85 said:
If you're at all worried about precision or appearence go with a countersink.
Click to expand...

I hear you, chamfering by hand sounds nearly impossible to get perfect.

12345678910 said:
dremel / die grinder with a pointed stone ?
Click to expand...
I tried one of those when I first started knifemaking, I may look into them again. I was thinking I can get big sizes for cheap.



This sounds like something I will report back on after I figure out what will work best.
 
Large chamfer in titanium? You're really gonna want a mill.

If you use a countersink you'll want to run it slow and use a lot of pressure once the chamfer is started. I get the best results with the one flute type in your situation. Don't use an el-cheapo in titanium when surface finish matters. And unfortunately your cutter life won't be real good. This is an application where you are going to want to use oil and low speed. (huh, might be the first time I've ever said that on this forum)

I get best results with large chamfers using a chamfer mill and circular interpolation. That way the cutter is only contacting along a narrow angle instead of all the way around. But this requires CNC (or a rotary table).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top