Best way to fix damaged machete edge?

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KarlMaldensNose

KarlMaldensNose

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I took my Fiddleback 12" on a trip recently and it sustained multiple major edge damages: rolls, nicks, compressions, etc. It's really messed up. In all honestly, it wasn't even used on anythying hard or for chopping; just clearing small diameter green branches, shrubbery, etc. from a few paths. I'm assuming it was ground a bit too thin. No matter, it'll be fixed, but that's the question: what's the best way? I have files, a sharpening puck, wet/dry paper with backings of various softness, waterstones, diamond stones, strops.... seeming everything but NO BELT SANDER, GRINDER, OR OTHER POWER TOOLS. Any and all suggestions welcome. Thanks.
 
I'd use files. Work up an edge with a hifg angle then go finer and work the edge then back at the shoulder a bit.
 
Well first off, yeah I'd go with a file or files first to work out the damage and then smooth it down with a stone or stones.

Secondly, something about this sounds odd to me. I know for a fact mine was ground too thin, it was an accident in the grind. But I chopped 3 and four inch diameter poplar limbs with it right off the bat with no real damage. I didn't damage it till i stuck it up in a knot on a log that was so hard my hawk would just bounce off of it and not even bite at all. Then I took it down to a .030 flat and put a secondary bevel on it and I have only had a few small spots show up after a lot of hard use. For the kind of damage it sounds like you are talking about those must have been some really tough green limbs or something else is wrong.
 
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Kinda gives me the willies too. Any chance of me seeing this edge. I've not heard of any edge problems before, but a look would be nice. Pics?
 
A bastard file will make quick work of reshaping/profiling the edge.

I have chopped some extremely hard woods here in upstate NY and I beat the hell out of my fb machetes. I must say I have never had one single issue, are you sure you weren't chopping through dirty rocky material?
 
I've already started trying to file some of the worst deformations back into line/place, but there are still some lesser spots that I could try to get a pic of so you guys can get an idea of what I'm talking about. What I'm most worried about is that these areas will be weak spots until they are sharpened off completely. I mean, some of the kinks (areas of edge pushed both downward and outwards) have been filed (forced/pushed) back into alignment with the proper edge, and that's twice now that those bits of steel have been bent/moved -- first time with the damage, then with re-aligning/repair. I'll try to borrow a camera for pics.

Regarding what I was using it for, like I said, it was small diameter green branches and shrubbery. No dirt or rocks. But this was funny stuff. It was hard enough to not be able to cut through easily, as the combination of it being green and unstable (i.e. not fixed) made it kinda springy so it required A LOT of strikes. And the strikes weren't always perfect hits as this stuff was boucing all over the place so the edge took its share of glances.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not here to cry foul. Even though the amount and degree of edge failures are too great for there not to have been an issue with overgrinding to a too thin or accute edge (did same work last year with another 'chete and had no problems), I admitt that my machete skills are lacking and take all the responsibility. I'm just looking to solve my own problem. Please keep that mind. Thanks.
 
KarlMaldensNose said:
I've already started trying to file some of the worst deformations back into line/place, but there are still some lesser spots that I could try to get a pic of so you guys can get an idea of what I'm talking about. What I'm most worried about is that these areas will be weak spots until they are sharpened off completely. I mean, some of the kinks (areas of edge pushed both downward and outwards) have been filed (forced/pushed) back into alignment with the proper edge, and that's twice now that those bits of steel have been bent/moved -- first time with the damage, then with re-aligning/repair. I'll try to borrow a camera for pics.

Regarding what I was using it for, like I said, it was small diameter green branches and shrubbery. No dirt or rocks. But this was funny stuff. It was hard enough to not be able to cut through easily, as the combination of it being green and unstable (i.e. not fixed) made it kinda springy so it required A LOT of strikes. And the strikes weren't always perfect hits as this stuff was boucing all over the place so the edge took its share of glances.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not here to cry foul. Even though the amount and degree of edge failures are too great for there not to have been an issue with overgrinding to a too thin or accute edge (did same work last year with another 'chete and had no problems), I admitt that my machete skills are lacking and take all the responsibility. I'm just looking to solve my own problem. Please keep that mind. Thanks.
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Ah, I am seeing part of the problem...maybe. If the edge was a bit thin and the the material was hard and springy then the edge was cutting in to it then the limb was bending and the the edge was in a bind in the cut and so bent too sort of like being in a vice. You may need to adjust your striking angle a bit, make it a little steeper to the line of the stalk you are striking in order to get maximum effectiveness from the blade your using. Another thing I have noted about machetes over the years is that they were originally designed to work with softer green materials as in the tropics or sub-tropics. The edges sometimes need to be customized to the organic materials in the area where it is used. Mine will primarily be used on hard woods so I left the edge a little steep and a little thick compared to most machetes.
 
Wow, Andy, that's above and beyond, really. I thank you for the offer but will repectfully decline (especially since I don't want a refund, I want my FF machete:thumbup:). As mentioned, I already have most of of the bigger spots sorted out with a file and now it's really just a matter of time before I can sit down with it to finish it off properly. Once I have the edge straightened out I am going to bring the angle up so it'll be more robust. In doing this, much of the fatigued metal from the very apex of the edge will be taken off and thus my concerns laid to rest.

I'll tell you what, if the rest of the repair job doesn't go as well as I anticipate it will, then I'll consider sending it back (if your offer still stands). But the intial offer is very much appreciated and telling of your character and approach to customer service/satisfaction. It won't be forgotten, especially the next time I'm in the market for an outdoors knife. Thank-you.
 
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