Best Way to Remove Ren Wax

[Jaxx]

Thanks Jaxx!!!

above and beyond, and very interesting. I have the majority of my blades coated in Ren Wax. I think the next time i might try something else. someone suggested using some wd-40. i may try this.

Not sure where you live, but it is rare that I ever put anything on INFI for long term storage...even with the humid summer like we're having this year, no stored satin INFI has ever shown even a spot pf rust, and only one D/C'd blade did show a light patch or 2 on the tang after a year +, but every other D/C'd Busse in the same drawer was rust free, so that might have been a fluke because after receiving it back from Busse after they refinished it, this hasn't happened again.

The only problem is with the CF knives...but again, it it interesting how you can see the very well defined line where the layer of decarb meets the true INFI, as past this line on every single one, there isn't a single spot of rust/oxidation. and where it is, there's no pitting.

I'm in PA, so those in FLA or other coastal states/nations or states and nations with higher consistent humidity may have discovered that a little preventative maintenance is needed.

Maybe just mineral oil or maybe Tuff Cloth/Marine Tuff Cloth might be all you need?

I use Ren Wax on natural material only... wood, smooth giraffe bone, etc.

 

[Cappy2cap]

Not sure where you live, but it is rare that I ever put anything on INFI for long term storage...even with the humid summer like we're having this year, no stored satin INFI has ever shown even a spot pf rust, and only one D/C'd blade did show a light patch or 2 on the tang after a year +, but every other D/C'd Busse in the same drawer was rust free, so that might have been a fluke because after receiving it back from Busse after they refinished it, this hasn't happened again.

The only problem is with the CF knives...but again, it it interesting how you can see the very well defined line where the layer of decarb meets the true INFI, as past this line on every single one, there isn't a single spot of rust/oxidation. and where it is, there's no pitting.

I'm in PA, so those in FLA or other coastal states/nations or states and nations with higher consistent humidity may have discovered that a little preventative maintenance is needed.

Maybe just mineral oil or maybe Tuff Cloth/Marine Tuff Cloth might be all you need?

I use Ren Wax on natural material only... wood, smooth giraffe bone, etc.

I am on the Cali Coast, so just about everything satin ends up with some rust spots. I am very close to the coast about a 2 minute walk. Very salty air. I have the tough cloth and I think i will def try that.

 

[Cappy2cap]

Cappy, sorry to be late getting back on here, had to fly to work yesterday morn at 0430. Jaxx is right on here, with a little oil on the G-10. All your doing is removing (dring out) to top of the G-10 and once you put some oil on it it will bounce back.

this worked very well, the color is back in the handles and all is well. That acetone is nasty stuff. I dropped some on my leg and it felt like cold acid

 

[tomthebaker]

Good thing you don't paint your nails ... acetone is fingernail polish remover.

MEK is similar, but doesn't evaporate so quickly.

 

[Cappy2cap]

Good thing you don't paint your nails ... acetone is fingernail polish remover.

MEK is similar, but doesn't evaporate so quickly.

I knew that smelled familiar...next time also i will do it outside where its ventilated!