Best way to remove rust on 440V bead blast?

Big Dave

Gold Member
Dec 18, 1998
Ok, now I know what you guys mean about bead blasting.

I have two spots that started to rust. An oiled cloth removed most of it but I can still see a little discoloration.

What's the best way to remove all of the rust without leaving any marks on the blade?


By giving it a full polish...
...I despise bead blast finishes......remove the blade, hand sand untill smooth, buff it to taste....or goto a local mechanic's shop and ask if they can bead blast it quickly for you...most of the time it isn't as rough of a finish, but you should test another cheapo blade first...


What about the Navel Jelly (Sp?).

There's got to be an easier way. I hope!

Why in the hell is bead blasting so popular?

I baby my knives and I think it got a little wet after I washed my hands.

I work in an office- no jungle or salt water abuse. Geez. Hate to see what could really happen.

The reason bead blast finishes are so popular is

1) Production knife companies can get away with sloppy grinding.

2) People are suckered into believing it has a tactical advantage, this gives companies an excuse to grind sloppily and then bead blast the blades...the lowering of production cost is the main reason.

Alot of custom makers use bead blast finished because of customer demand. This is residual demand brought about the marketing of these finishes as "tactical". The general public can be easily fooled into such proven by the election of Klinton...Twice..

Bead blast finished are a means of lowering production costs. They detract from every other meaningful aspect of a knife. I HATE them....Buff that knife and you will see what I mean....


You might try the following:
Simichrome Polish by Happich (Imported from Germany, by Competition Chemicals, Inc., Iowa Falls, Iowa 50126], A.G. Russell is also a fan of this polishing paste.
which if purchased alone is $9.95 with free shipping. My tube is actually 1.76 ounces or 50 grams, not the 1 1/4 oz mentioned.
I cannot qualitatively compare it to other polishes, but can say it certainly works fine.

I am not sure how it would work on a bead blasted finish. I cut and pasted this info from a reply I made in a Bladeforum post entitled
Help: brass discolored by long-term labels

Another possibility might be the chemical used in Heddy Rust Treatment -Rust Killer & Primer. The bottle notes that it contains Phosphoric Acid. I assume this is the main active ingredient, but do not know what if any other active ingredients are in it. [Heddy Corporation, Paterson, NJ 07524]

It supposedly changes rust into an inert hard substance. It also notes that if excess dry powdery greyish white substance develops it should be brushed off. I know it has worked for me, but I never examined it critically.
Does anybody else have knowledge about this type of chemical, alternative brands, or the efficacy of the reaction?

I have always had great results with FLITZ metal polish. Removes rust from bead blasts very easily and thoroughly. It can be had at Home Depot although I first purchased a tube through the mail from Cutlery Shoppe. A little goes a very long way and leaves a protective layer on the blade to help prevent future problems. I highly recommend this product. Hope this helps.

Long live Bladeforums!


Thanks for the input guys.

I'll keep it oiled up until I get a chance to check out one of those products.

I remember someone saying that a pencil eraser works pretty good for minor spots.

What gets me is that I'm oil my knives daily.

Oh well, another lesson learned the hard way.

Thanks again,

I came here to get the link for someone with a rust question on a Military, but while I am here:

I still am curious about Heddy Rust treatment, mentioned in my post above. Anyone have any information re the above inquiry?