Best way to remove stock from an Axe?

TXoutback

TXoutback

Joined
Apr 17, 2010
Messages
121
I have an Axe (Council Tool Hudson Bay 18" Hatchet) that I am converting over to a chopper/bushcraft axe.

I have been reprofiling the cheeks to make it more Swedish/Tomohawk style, but there's a good chunk of it I want to take off the beard portion.

I plan to use a hacksaw and files to deal with the heel where the metal is thinner and harder, but what I dont know is the best way to remove the "meat" from the rest of the beard.

I have a belt sander and a bench grinder, but I cannot do much with those while the handle is still on the axe.... The handle is great... I dont want to mess it up!

My thoughts are to use an angle grinder to make relief cuts then, then chops, then filing.

Any advice is appreciated.
 
Sounds like you are about to ruin a perfectly good axe. One of my favorites. The more you thin it out the less effective at chopping it will be.
To each his own, but still...there are plenty of old beat up axe heads to be had for this kind of thing.
 
I have a 26" version of CT Hudson Bay it's perfect... the short handle version is just too heavy for the handle... so it has just been sitting around collecting rust.
 
I converted a Harbor Freight fireman's hatchet to what you are talking about. I used my belt grinder to "trim" the beard, mostly the small wheel attachment, and cut off the spike with my metal cutting bandsaw. Did it all with handle attached.
 
Well, since it's too late to talk you out of it, I guess you should try to pull the wedge and get the handle off. You should be able to re hang it if you are careful.
I'm not sure what you have in mind exactly, but if you get anywhere near the bit with an angle grinder you are going to ruin the temper/heat treatment. Slow and steady with the belt grinder is the safest bet, although still horrifying if you ask me. (Which I am fully aware you didn't)
 
Not if you keep things cool. Remember that on those axes, typically only the bit is hardened.
E.Carlson said:
Well, since it's too late to talk you out of it, I guess you should try to pull the wedge and get the handle off. You should be able to re hang it if you are careful.
I'm not sure what you have in mind exactly, but if you get anywhere near the bit with an angle grinder you are going to ruin the temper/heat treatment. Slow and steady with the belt grinder is the safest bet, although still horrifying if you ask me. (Which I an fully aware you didn't)
Click to expand...
 
jdm61 said:
Not if you keep things cool. Remember that on those axes, typically only the bit is hardened.
Click to expand...
Sure it's possible I guess. But the beard on a hudson bay style is pretty dang close to your temper line. Give it a vinegar soak to find out where it lies exactly and remember that heat travels quick!
 
Thanks for the advice, everyone. I will use some vinegar to give it a patina, and will use a hacksaw and file for the hardened area (I'm betting its the last 1" or less). The rest I will go after with the angle grinder, and keep it wet so it doesn't get too hot.
 
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Good luck. I'd be interested in seeing photos of the result and/or photos of where that temper line ends up being.
 
The overnight patina revealed a very crisp meridian starting at 1" on the heel and 1.125" at the toe, following the curve of the blade very evenly (as opposed to the flat line like the factory paint). No pics yet!
 
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