Best way to sharpen a Fallkniven F1

[freq18hz]

Folks,

I've asked this before...

But after contacting Fallkniven, they are recommending I use a diamond whetstone to sharpen the knife? Yet they say it is indeed convex from the factory? A bit confused here...

If Fallkniven recommends a stone, why does everyone else recommend sandpaper?

I want to maintain the beautiful ability the knife had new to push through wood like butter, very different from all my other knives.


-Freq

 

[TWBryan]

Tried convexing,gave up. I sharpen mine on a Spyderco Sharpmaker these days.

 

[jacktrades_nbk]

just sharpen it freehand , a few passes on one of their stones, like dc4, dc3..whatever, will keep a very nice edge, and by doing it freehand, it will be kind of convex anyway

 

[freq18hz]

So you are saying it will never cut like it did from the factory? It was amazing how it pushed through wood...

-Freq

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

You might find the following thread (still active in the Maint. forum) informative for sharpening a convex edge:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=745887&page=2

 

[A.L.]

Take oldschool mousepad (soft, thick), put some fine sandpaper on it and lay the knife flat on the paper. Apply some pressure and draw. In other words, kind of like sharpening scandi or convexing in general. You might need to tilt the blade just a bit.. or not. Check it out if the edge touches paper. Really really easy.

 

[mtwarden]

these series of videos should help you restore and keep that nice factory edge- it has w/ my two WM1's and F1

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/pages/Sharpening-Videos

 

[Jason B.]

My vote is for a carbide scraper

 

[sambo.]

you can touch up the edge on a convex knife on a stone like the diamond/ceramic stones that Fallkniven sell.

if it's in need of a full sharpen, then the old mousepad/sandpaper trick is the way to go.

it's a common, and rather sad, misconception that convex edges are difficult to sharpen. any blade that's been freehand sharpened on stones for any length of time will have turned convex anyways.

 

[A.L.]

The bad side about the fällkniven stones is that it makes the blade look nasty. I rather have the smoothness of sandpaper.

 

[Dag-nabit]

So you are saying it will never cut like it did from the factory? It was amazing how it pushed through wood...

-Freq

With some practice you will be able to get it back to factory sharp, or better.

I already offered my opinion / advice here. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=744727&highlight=paging+freq18hz Just so I don't have to type it all again.

Kevin

 

[freq18hz]

Kevin,

Thanks! I didn't see that previous post! So glad you linked it. =)


-Freq

 

[s500yards]

I would highly recommend using a strop. I can't speak from experience with the vg10 or whatever they use, but with my A2 BRKT the strop they sell @ knives ship free is excellent. I have the large one for home use, and the small one I carry in the field. Just keep it in a small ziplock so it doesn't get wet. There are great video links on the website that will show you exactly how to use them. It's the way convex edges were meant to be maintained.

 

[freq18hz]

I bought a DMT alligner for my other blades, I see that they sell a convex stone specifically for sharpening convex edges. Anyone tried that?


-Freq

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I bought a DMT alligner for my other blades, I see that they sell a convex stone specifically for sharpening convex edges. Anyone tried that?


-Freq

Assuming you're referring to this one?

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=DMTACG

That stone is convex shaped, true. However, it's meant for sharpening the 'inside' curve on recurved/hawkbill type blades. Definitely not for convex sharpening. Two totally different things.

 

[Minnesota]

What grits shoud you use? I've heard anything above 400 won't sharpen your knife just polish it.