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Best way to sharpen my victorinox

Joined
Oct 11, 2005
Messages
1,178
From what I've been reading the steel in my SAK is a bit on the soft side to give it that nice sharp edge. Given this, and the fact that I would really hate to mar that mirror finish, what is the best way to sharpen one of these knives.

Also, is the blade a full convex grind, or some other grind with a convex edge.
 
Joined
Oct 20, 2006
Messages
1,196
Sak blades are more of a flat grind with a secondary bevel,I free hand all my knives,and don't know the exact angle I use but I do sharpen Sak's at a lower angle than the factory,not much just enough to do away with the thick sholder behind the edge.

On a new sak I use a med diamond steel or stone and finish on ceramic,then a couple swipes on a loaded strope,if your worried about scratching your blade,use a guided system(sharpmaker,lansky etc.) or you can tape the upper part of the blade with masking tape.
 
Joined
Apr 27, 1999
Messages
6,117
Victorinox blades are not all that soft. I wouldn't worry about babying them as long as you aren't trying to cut metal. I sharpen mine at about 10 degrees per side which is lower than any normal sharpening system angle. I don't see problems. I try for a relatively flat honing angle, not convex. I do a few very light strokes at around 12 degrees per side to do a slight microbevel. It doesn't matter a lot what type of hone you use. If I want to go extreme I strop with some 1/2 micron diamond paste.
 

Bill DeShivs

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Jun 6, 2000
Messages
11,480
You can rebevel these with a file. 20 degrees per side sharpening angle will give you a very sharp knife.
Bill
 
Joined
Oct 11, 2005
Messages
1,178
Just out of curiosity, what will rebeveling get me. I was happy with the performance of the knife from the factory so will rebeveling make a noticable difference? Also, I assumed that the angle was 20 degrees. By your suggestion I gather that this is wrong.

As as aside, is the nail file on steroids that victorinox provides useful, or should I just go with some stones.
 
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
1,864
I've had great experiences using the sandpaper on leather trick to aquire a slight convex edge on my 58mm saks. Don't do this on my larger ones... no real reason. But man do I like how that works on on the smaller blades. Extremely sharp and seems to hold it real well (but then I don't do much cutting with them either).
 
Joined
Aug 15, 2007
Messages
5
I give my SAK a regular touch-up with a sharpmaker. So far it's still shaving.
 
Joined
May 18, 2005
Messages
22,876
scissors do not have the same edge angle as a blade. You can sharpen them using the sharpmaker, however. You just have to maintain the proper angle.
 
Joined
Jul 16, 2007
Messages
164
Victorinox blades are not all that soft. I wouldn't worry about babying them as long as you aren't trying to cut metal. I sharpen mine at about 10 degrees per side which is lower than any normal sharpening system angle. I don't see problems. I try for a relatively flat honing angle, not convex. I do a few very light strokes at around 12 degrees per side to do a slight microbevel. It doesn't matter a lot what type of hone you use. If I want to go extreme I strop with some 1/2 micron diamond paste.

+1

Victorinox takes a nice edge with almost any system used with reasonable care. I've been using Norton waterstones, followed by a strop charged with 1/2 micron chromic oxide. I can chop hanging hairs quite easily.
 
Joined
Jun 5, 2006
Messages
2,718
Sak blades are more of a flat grind with a secondary bevel,I free hand all my knives,and don't know the exact angle I use but I do sharpen Sak's at a lower angle than the factory,not much just enough to do away with the thick sholder behind the edge.

Ditto. I get my SAK Tinker sharp enough to shave across the end grain of a pine board. That's sharp enough for me. I can't get some of my carbon blades to cut that smooth. I do think it has to do with putting a finer edge geometry to it.
 
Joined
Jul 2, 2017
Messages
1
Here's a response from the other side of the fence: I read what you guys above have written about sharpening your Victorinox blades, and I am filled with a feeling of deep awe and respect when you discuss your stones, and toss about different numbers. When I see somebody take a stone and sharpen a knife at the correct angle I admire the living daylights out of that person. Then they tell me "it's easy--watch," and proceed to demonstrate just how simple it is. Then I pick up the knife and the stone and proceed to demolish both in thirty seconds or less. So what would you recommend for this guy who is totally inept, and who understands that the knife should be held at a 15 degree angle, but simply lacks the manual dexterity to do it right?
 

FortyTwoBlades

Baryonyx walkeri
Dealer / Materials Provider
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
24,918
Here's a response from the other side of the fence: I read what you guys above have written about sharpening your Victorinox blades, and I am filled with a feeling of deep awe and respect when you discuss your stones, and toss about different numbers. When I see somebody take a stone and sharpen a knife at the correct angle I admire the living daylights out of that person. Then they tell me "it's easy--watch," and proceed to demonstrate just how simple it is. Then I pick up the knife and the stone and proceed to demolish both in thirty seconds or less. So what would you recommend for this guy who is totally inept, and who understands that the knife should be held at a 15 degree angle, but simply lacks the manual dexterity to do it right?

This is an ooooooooooold thread, but...

Just imagine you're trying to take thin slices off the stone. Take an equal number of them on each side and keep doing it until your edge is sharp.
 
Joined
Aug 3, 2009
Messages
1,558
So what would you recommend for this guy who is totally inept, and who understands that the knife should be held at a 15 degree angle, but simply lacks the manual dexterity to do it right?

Maybe practice with a guide. At one time I was folding thick paper into wedges and then using those as a reference. These weren't very good and wouldn't last on a stone that was wet. But they helped me out. Wedges made of plastic or similar would be much better.

Or you can use a clamp as a guide. Even a metal binder clip, clamped to your edge would be a good reference for you.

You could also try using Secrets #1 and 2 from The Seven Secrets Of Sharpening.

Good luck to you in your sharpening adventures.

Brian.
 
Joined
Oct 7, 2016
Messages
101
Ultimamente se intentado ESTO.
Funciona muy bien para mi.
La Con afilador Spyderco
Large leaf with brown stones.
Pequeña hoja con piedras ultrafino.
un saludo
 
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