Best way to sharpen serrations?

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Jan 8, 2023
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I've searched the forum and can't find a best way to sharpen serrations. I have a spyderco sharp maker and it pretty much shows sharpening serrations in the same manor you would a straight blade. I've done that and it worked. Sooner or later the serrations will get ground off. I think. ... Can somebody point me to a better method of sharpening? Files?
 
Use the proper sharpening tool?
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I use two DMT tapered diamond rods, coarse and fine, which will fit almost anything other than the extremely narrow gullets on some kitchen knives. I also use a marker so that I can see whether I am keeping the correct angle.
 
hangmanshammer said:
Lansky makes a Spyder sharpener
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I have one of those Lansky Spyder sharpeners. It's just an ordinary rod with a triangular cross section, where one angle on the triangle is fairly sharp to fit the narrow gullets, and the other two angles are rounded off, but they are not rounded off enough to properly fit the wider gullets on Spyderco knives. DMT tapered rods are far superior, since they will actually fit the gullets on Spyderco and Cold Steel knives.
 
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If you go to the Edge Pro website (videos) there is a video on how Ben Dale recommended it. Of course it is EP based in how you approach it.
 
Alberta Ed said:
Specialty hones for serrated knives are available from several makers -- just do a search.
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Search for "Lansky Fine Hone for Serrated Knives" or "Lansky Medium Hone for Serrated Knives" on Amazon. The product description says: "Perfect for producing a fast, sharp edge and final polishing. These specially designed V-shaped alumina ceramic hones fit serrated edges of any knife. Sharpens serrated knives to a perfect edge every time. Mounted on finger grooved holder. A great accessory for the Lansky sharpening kit."

I doubt that they will in fact "fit serrated edges of any knife".
 
Another Shepherd said:
I find that the points on many Spyderco serrated knives are too pointy and tend to snag rather than cut. Rounding off the points makes the knife cut better.
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Agreed, for the most part. Alternatively, sharpening just the scallops individually will lead to deeper scallops, which may not be ideal.

I think the method OP mentioned of drawing the blade down the corner of a Sharpmaker rod slowly like you’re sharpening a plain edge is great, and definitely faster and easier. Sharpens the entire serration. It’s Sal Glesser’s recommended method for Spyderco’s serrations.

For small serrations, such as those found on Cold Steel, the Lansky’s are fine. Think they make them for Spyderco serrations as well.
 
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The corners of the triangular Sharpmaker rods can be used exactly like files for serrations. Just direct the rod perpendicularly into the edge in each scallop of the serrations, instead of drawing the blade heel-to-tip down & across the rods in the usual manner. You've already got the tools you need - there's more than one way to use them. Both methods can work well, depending on what you're wanting to accomplish.

The conventional, 'down & across' method for the SM is great for occasional light touching up on the fly. But If more attention is needed within each of the scallops and you want to leave the tips alone, use the file method with the corners of the same rods. And if a lot of regrinding is necessary to restore extremely dull serrations, the optional diamond or cbn rods might be worth considering.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
The corners of the triangular Sharpmaker rods can be used exactly like files for serrations. Just direct the rod perpendicularly into the edge in each scallop of the serrations, instead of drawing the blade heel-to-tip down & across the rods in the usual manner. You've already got the tools you need - there's more than one way to use them. Both methods can work well, depending on what you're wanting to accomplish.

The conventional, 'down & across' method for the SM is great for occasional light touching up on the fly. But If more attention is needed within each of the scallops and you want to leave the tips alone, use the file method with the corners of the same rods. And if a lot of regrinding is necessary to restore extremely dull serrations, the optional diamond or cbn rods might be worth considering.
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OK, makes sense. I'll try being intelligent with what I have first.
 
Thanks for all the input. I have researching to do but you guys definitely put me on the right parh.
 
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