Best way to sharpen serrations?

I have used different sized dowels with high grit sandpaper for the separation and a good stone to take the burr off the back. I have also found some cheap diamond files for carbide chainsaw chains that actually work well. Unfortunately they came from a tool outlet store in Pigeon Forge and when I went back for more a year later they were gone. No name anywhere
 
I never liked serrations until I learned how to make them myself. Now my answer to the OP would be find serrations that are not too small and cramped, so that you can fit a ceramic or diamond rod, whichever is more appropriate to the level of sharpness you're starting from. Also, find serrations that are on a thinly ground blade, using tough alloy. AEB-L is a great choice, LC200N, I know Spyderco has made some MagnaCut serrations, and I am about to try it out soon as well. And your basic carbon steels would be great, like 1084, 15N20, 8670, etc.

My serrations are made with a 1/2" dremel sanding drum, and that is large enough to accommodate many different sharpening options, and aggressive enough to make quick work of tough and fibrous material. I grind the blade super thin first, so that subsequent use and sharpening will not require the removal of large amounts of steel.

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At the end, make sure you cut off the burr that forms on the backside of the edge.

To cut off that burr, I like to use a single pass -- a light, leading edge pass that is extremely shallow (just enough angle to avoid scratching the flat side), and extremely short (0.25 inches only, so you don't create a new burr inside your scallops).
 
I have several diamond rods in various grits that are tapered and work well for serrated blades. I never liked them at all until I figured out how to effectively sharpen them, but now I can see the benefits.
 
What no one wants to tell you is ... there is no good way to sharpen serrations. Don't spend a lot of money on serrated knives. If you have a cheap one that gets dull, throw it out and get a new one. You're welcome. :)
 
I have tried over the years to make and sharpen serrations of various types and styles both production and custom. I have used the Spyderco hones designed for Spyderco serrations, I have used tapered and round, diamond and ceramic hones, dremel bits, little jigs that hold multiple rods or hones at the proper distance. I've even had a crack at individually dressed wheels that match the shape. Spyderco and similar can be done, Cold Steel's with the tiny little grooves are just stupid, the round top laser cut ones are just as bad...IMO.
I think if I was to make a properly designed serrated edge. It would be ground similar in pattern and shape to Spyderco, but be sharpened similar to a "scandi" , where you would sharpen flat against the bevel on the back side of the serration until you form a burr, then use a slighlty tapered and spaced hone to wipe off the burr. This would still require eventual regrinding with dressed wheels or jigged diamond rods to maintain the shape of the serration as the primary bevel creeps back.
For me, serrations are more trouble than they are worth in anything that is not disposable or at least only expected to recieve honing a few dozen times, before a full regrind is required.
Hate on me if you want, I just feel they are a good example, of " Over-specialisation breeds in weakness"
 
Sometimes the best approach is to lay the back of the blade flat on the stone and flatten the back side.
 
jux t jux t He's not wrong, but to me it now feels much better to have the knife in one hand and the stone in the other.
 
Listening to Sal's voice in that video is so relaxing.
 
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