best wood/finish for hard-use scales?

C

csp20108

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Sep 9, 2002
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I'm gathering up all the plans and tools to build my first hybrid custom/production knife (custom scales and finish, production blade) and I'm ready to finally go shopping for the last two things I need: wood for the scales and finish for the wood. But, I'm at a loss as to what kind of wood would be best, and how to finish it.

The knife is a Becker BK-7 and is going to remain a user knife. But, I want it to look nice. So, I'm finishing the satin-ing the blade and I was thinking medium to light colored hard wood scales would match nicely. I've always liked rock maple, but I've never made handles before and I don't know if it will stand up to hard use on a knife. Also, I haven't really finished any wood since high school shop. Anyone have any suggestions as to what to use for color and/or sealer? I want the wood to retain it's finish, but not be slippery so that hard use is dangerous.

Thanks!
 
IIRC wood scales should be stabilized before being stained & finished. The stabilization compound impregnates the wood structure and minimizes the swelling & shrinking of the wood when it is moisture cycled. WSSI has a good reputation for doing good stabilization work. http://www.stabilizedwood.com/wssi.shtml Woods with smaller variations in grain densities within the wood offer smaller dimensional change with changes in moisture.

IMHO to finish the wood, use an oil finish like tung oil that penetrates the wood surface. Varnish and polyurethane lay on top of the surface of the wood and could be slippery when wet. For grip security, you may want to selectively place some areas of checkering (as done on rifle & shotgun stocks) on the scales.
 
Great tips guys. Thanks. I've done some more research and I've found a great website on refinishing gun stocks that I think is relevant. It's: http://riflestocks.tripod.com/

Based on what I've found out and the responses so far here is my list of steps - am I missing any?

1) Shape scales
2) Sand to desired smoothness
3) Checker any desired areas of grip (probably skipping this as I have no checkering tools)
4) Remove all dust
5) Seal wood with 4 parts tung oil, 1 part mineral spirits
6) Remove any imperfections tung oil shows (after it dries)
7) Seal again with 4/1 mix
8) Hand rub on either tung oil or linseed oil mixed 1/1 with spirits
9) Add at least 3 more coats of finish
10 Wait about a week for everything to cure totally
11) Polish finish with rubbing compound
12) Add one more coat of finish if desired
13) Admire
14) Trade for another Becker
15) Start over from step 1
 
A good carnuba-based paste wax for furniture or wooden floors adds another layer of protection to a cured tung oil finish and adds a little grippiness. Car waxes tend to have a lot of additives that are intended to interact or bond with paint, so I wouldn't use them on fine wood. Finding a block of pure Carnuba wax, dressing a wheel with it, and then buffing the handle might be even better. I think carnuba is the hardest natural wax known, and the pure wax would be too hard to apply by hand. Stabilized wood is nice, but there's plenty of old knives with pefectly fine handles around that were made before stabilized wood was available. Just need to take care of them.
 
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