Best Years for the 110

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Buck110 fan

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Mar 18, 2012
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I was wondering if I should by a two dot or three dot buck 110. I was also wondering what the diffeerene is. I am going to buy a 110 that is older just wondering what year is the Best. One last thing when I buy an old one how do I shine it up will Brasso work.
 
Two-Dotters are almost as good as Three-Dotters, but they're all good knives and you won't go wrong with a 110.

First decide if you really want a finger grooved model......if you decide you do.......then you're going for a Four-Dotter.

Brasso works fine.

If it needs quite a bit of clean-up, I'd send it to Buck.

They do a superb job for $7 plus shipping one-way.
 
Which versions/years use 44OC and which ones used 425mod?

My understanding is that the change from 425mod to 420HC took place around 1992.

I also understand that the 2 dot 110s were made with 440C.

But, I don't know when 440C was dropped.
 
That's super helpful.

Was 81 the last year of the 3 dots?

Better to ask, Does 3 dots always imply 440C?
 
The two dots and three dots should be pretty equal I think. For ergonomics and comfort in the hand, I prefer the later ones with radiused edges.
 
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Also, the Three-Dot has a blade pivot bushing, which was regarded by some as a significant improvement......(although the number three is indeed quite cool).

Then too......popular legend has it that the Three-Dot blades were the last of the 440C and the first to get the BOS heat treat--making them something special.

Popular legend is about as reliable as a flintlock pistol in a raging thunderstorm, and is probably more popular than true, but......there it is. It stands until somebody figures out a way to kill it.

Whatever your choice, you will own a fine knife--if you're like the rest of us, the first of many.

:thumbup:
 
Three dots are generally considered 1980 knives. A couple of things that were different from the 2-dots: First year Paul Bos did the heat treatment so it was the only year you can have a 440c Bos HT knife. Also, during the 3-dot production, hand radiused knives were produced.

The 4-dots are all 425M steel and a lot of these knives are FG's and have real macassar ebony as do all the earlier knives. Don't shy away from 425M, Bos turned into a very good knife steel. These knives also offer machine radiused bolsters.

All the vintage 110's (pre-90) are great knives in my opinion. You can't go wrong with any of them if your looking for an older ebony knife.
 
pinnah said:
That's super helpful.

Was 81 the last year of the 3 dots?

Better to ask, Does 3 dots always imply 440C?
Click to expand...

Careful wording would say, "1980 was the last year that Three-Dot BLADES were made."

More from my notes (from this forum):

110 data (Blade thickness changed with change to 425MOD steel.
1980: 3 dot(440C@.115")/non-radiused frame
1981: 4 dot(425M@.120")/non-radiused frame(identical to 3 dot frame)
1982: 4 dot(425M@.120")/hand radiused frame/NON-radiused thumb depression
1983: 4 dot(425M@.120")/fully radiused frame/current production
Click to expand...

We must keep in mind that most references to years mean "give or take maybe a month or two and maybe more when referring to certain of the many changes to many knives over the years."

There is always some margin. There is rarely precision.
 
Pulling a salient point out of that info......

If a blade measures .115 it's gonna be 440C.

If it measures .120 it's gonna be 425M (unless it's 1993 or after, then it's 420HC).

This bit of lore should also be subject to scrutiny......

Is it always true?
 
My Buck 110 does not have any dots on the blade, it was purchased in the 1970's.
How does this one rate ?.
 
I always thought spine at thickest part, but I have never heard it specified.

(?)
 
Those of you that are new here, may not have seen Joe Housers Data sheet on the 110 and 112. Its a downloadable pdf file, in the sticky up at the top of this forum. Joe and several respected BCCI members have collaborated in compiling this data and is based on as much facts as they could possibly gather and most all of us here do value this as fact, versus popular legends. This same group of people have input and edited Buck data in popular knife books such as Blades Guide to Knife Values.

When there has been little or no fact, they have said so and given their best info based on working with the old timers at Buck.

I for one tend to go with that, versus opinions, popular legends, and some ones bias.

Down load it folks, good stuff.
 
Although what Pack Rat said is basically true, the discussion here has been focused on 1980 and later and if Joe's Data Sheet is all you have--you're out of luck for 1980 and later.

Joe's info ENDS at 1980. After that it contains nothing--legend, fact or fiction--about the 110.

Joe's Data Sheet, for example, would not show that the Three-Dot has a blade pivot bushing, which prior 110s lacked.

Joe's Data sheet was last updated at 01/15/09 and he states that he hopes to be "pushing forward in the research soon so that 3 and 4 dot 110s will also be included."

But time, and facts, have been marching on.

:)
 
Astrogator said:
My Buck 110 does not have any dots on the blade, it was purchased in the 1970's.
How does this one rate ?.
Click to expand...

I'd say excellent.

Some (probably those who own one and love it) would say it's the best. :)

As has been said, the 110s are all great knives and the differences are fairly insignificant and mostly personal preference.
 
Fact or fiction?

EIGHTH VERSION
{3 VARIATIONS}
1981 through 1985
-stamped/blanked 425M blade steel
-.120" thick blade
-three liner(reads tip up)
-full hollow ground blades
-cast frames
-solid Macassar ebony scales
-A.K.A.: FOUR DOT

1st VARIATION

• 1981
• left side of blade has BUCK, **110**, U.S.A.[three liner] stamped on tang which reads tip up
• non-gravity operational design
• stainless spacer(non-integral individual component)
• rocker bar spring is individual component that is inserted into spacer(spring holder)
• stainless rocker bar rivet
• two rear non-integral individual component bolster pins(heads visible on both sides of rear bolsters)
• blade pivot pin is a non-integral individual component(heads visible on both sides of front bolsters)
• blade pivot bushing inserted into blade
• three brass scale rivets

2nd VARIATION

• 1982(110FG debuts just before radiused edges)
• identical to 1st variation, except frames have hand radiused edges
• thumb depression cut out not radiused

3rd VARIATION

• 1983 through 1985
• identical to 2nd variation, except frames have cast radiused edges and thumb depression cut out(fully radiused frame)
 
Sounds like good information, PD.

Is Joe going to add it to his Data Sheet sticky up above? Have you got an advance copy?

You still seem to be missing the 1980 info.

:)
 
SEVENTH VERSION
{NO VARIATIONS}
1980 only
-stamped/blanked 440C blade steel
-.115" thick blade
-three liner(reads tip up)
-full hollow ground blade
-forged frame
-solid Macassar ebony scales
-A.K.A.: THREE DOT

• 1980
• left side of blade has BUCK, *110**, U.S.A.[three liner] stamped on tang which reads tip up
• non-gravity operational design
• stainless spacer(non-integral individual component)
• rocker bar spring is individual component that is inserted into spacer(spring holder)
• stainless rocker bar rivet
• two rear non-integral individual component bolster pins(heads visible on both sides of rear bolsters)
• blade pivot pin is a non-integral individual component(heads visible on both sides of front bolsters)
• blade pivot bushing inserted into blade
• three brass scale rivets
 
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