Best Years for the 110

Plumberdv said:
Fact or fiction?

EIGHTH VERSION
{3 VARIATIONS}
1981 through 1985
-stamped/blanked 425M blade steel
-.120" thick blade
-three liner(reads tip up)
-full hollow ground blades
-cast frames
-solid Macassar ebony scales
-A.K.A.: FOUR DOT

1st VARIATION

• 1981
• left side of blade has BUCK, **110**, U.S.A.[three liner] stamped on tang which reads tip up
• non-gravity operational design
• stainless spacer(non-integral individual component)
• rocker bar spring is individual component that is inserted into spacer(spring holder)
• stainless rocker bar rivet
• two rear non-integral individual component bolster pins(heads visible on both sides of rear bolsters)
• blade pivot pin is a non-integral individual component(heads visible on both sides of front bolsters)
• blade pivot bushing inserted into blade
• three brass scale rivets

2nd VARIATION

• 1982(110FG debuts just before radiused edges)
• identical to 1st variation, except frames have hand radiused edges
• thumb depression cut out not radiused

3rd VARIATION

• 1983 through 1985
• identical to 2nd variation, except frames have cast radiused edges and thumb depression cut out(fully radiused frame)
Click to expand...

Plumberdv said:
SEVENTH VERSION
{NO VARIATIONS}
1980 only
-stamped/blanked 440C blade steel
-.115" thick blade
-three liner(reads tip up)
-full hollow ground blade
-forged frame
-solid Macassar ebony scales
-A.K.A.: THREE DOT

• 1980
• left side of blade has BUCK, *110**, U.S.A.[three liner] stamped on tang which reads tip up
• non-gravity operational design
• stainless spacer(non-integral individual component)
• rocker bar spring is individual component that is inserted into spacer(spring holder)
• stainless rocker bar rivet
• two rear non-integral individual component bolster pins(heads visible on both sides of rear bolsters)
• blade pivot pin is a non-integral individual component(heads visible on both sides of front bolsters)
• blade pivot bushing inserted into blade
• three brass scale rivets
Click to expand...

Excellent information for that time period on the 110....thanks!!! :thumbup:
 
Yes, that did come from a good source, PD.

Too bad he he didn't feel welcome to stay here.
 
I had a 112 in 440C, and prefer the current 420HC. It is much easier to sharpen, takes a better edge, according to CATRA tests.
 
Do you use the new diamond stones, Ed??

With them I really don't find 440C that much harder to sharpen.

The 420HC and 440C are both damned good steels and both will take a good edge and hold it a long time.
 
i did not read all this thread
but i bought my first folding hunter 110 in 1967
and have use every one since
my vote other then supper steels
is the 3 dot ... loved them then and still...
 
Took you an awful long time to get here, Dave......were you at a knife show or did it involve some cute young filly?

:D
 
It has occurred to me more than once that 440C with Buck's current grind profiles would result in a first class blade.
 
BG42EDGE said:
Do you use the new diamond stones, Ed??

With them I really don't find 440C that much harder to sharpen.

The 420HC and 440C are both damned good steels and both will take a good edge and hold it a long time.
Click to expand...

I didn't have diamond hones back then. I probably wore out a few carborundum hones on that 112 in 440C and also wore the blade down pretty fast. I agree, diamond hones work great -- I've relied on DMTs for a couple decades now.
 
Answer #1: In real life, regardless of the steel, etc., they're all great. :thumbup:
Answer #2: The best 110 ever is my 1971/1972 110 that I saved hard for and still have. :)
 
BG42EDGE said:
Took you an awful long time to get here, Dave......
were you at a knife show or did it involve some cute young filly?:D
Click to expand...

ugh..how did you know she was cute?*!
ya i seem to be not here as much as i used to be

there is a lot of good data here on the early 110s
my vote ont he old ones is still the 3 dot ...
as to the 425M this is from personal experance
i had a polished 425M blade on a mount rushmore handle
one day i was cleaning the dust off and i noticed a ...spot
i could not say a bump but that is what it seemed like
looking closer i found three spots on the blade and on the back side..
it was a bump of sorts and on pressing on it ...
plink a bit of shiny steel come off!
like old cheep crome plateing!
i had heard that 425m had started displaying 'trash" in the steel and that was one reason buck went to 420HC
and some of this was showing up at the edges when sharpening had warn
the edge back a good bit..
also that i was not the only one to have a polished blade display a cancer spot
i sent it in and it come back with a non polished balde
 
Plumberdv said:
Fact or fiction?

EIGHTH VERSION
{3 VARIATIONS}
1981 through 1985
-stamped/blanked 425M blade steel
-.120" thick blade
-three liner(reads tip up)
-full hollow ground blades
-cast frames
-solid Macassar ebony scales
-A.K.A.: FOUR DOT

1st VARIATION

• 1981
• left side of blade has BUCK, **110**, U.S.A.[three liner] stamped on tang which reads tip up
• non-gravity operational design
• stainless spacer(non-integral individual component)
• rocker bar spring is individual component that is inserted into spacer(spring holder)
• stainless rocker bar rivet
• two rear non-integral individual component bolster pins(heads visible on both sides of rear bolsters)
• blade pivot pin is a non-integral individual component(heads visible on both sides of front bolsters)
• blade pivot bushing inserted into blade
• three brass scale rivets

2nd VARIATION

• 1982(110FG debuts just before radiused edges)
• identical to 1st variation, except frames have hand radiused edges
• thumb depression cut out not radiused

3rd VARIATION

• 1983 through 1985
• identical to 2nd variation, except frames have cast radiused edges and thumb depression cut out(fully radiused frame)
Click to expand...


Thanx for this info PDave...any way to get this added to the sticky thread above?
 
If the owner gives permission it would be good to have that added to the stickies.......along with his work on the rest of the 110 versions.

I hope PDave got permission to post it here.
 
JNewell said:
Answer #1: In real life, regardless of the steel, etc., they're all great. :thumbup:
Answer #2: The best 110 ever is my 1971/1972 110 that I saved hard for and still have. :)
Click to expand...

ya done good pilgram keeping a buck that long!
i have one of my first 3
dont know if it was my 2ed or 3ed
but i do have it ... got left at home when went in to navy ;)
 
Plumberdv said:
SEVENTH VERSION
{NO VARIATIONS}
1980 only
-stamped/blanked 440C blade steel
-.115" thick blade
-three liner(reads tip up)
-full hollow ground blade
-forged frame
-solid Macassar ebony scales
-A.K.A.: THREE DOT

• 1980
• left side of blade has BUCK, *110**, U.S.A.[three liner] stamped on tang which reads tip up
• non-gravity operational design
• stainless spacer(non-integral individual component)
• rocker bar spring is individual component that is inserted into spacer(spring holder)
• stainless rocker bar rivet
• two rear non-integral individual component bolster pins(heads visible on both sides of rear bolsters)
• blade pivot pin is a non-integral individual component(heads visible on both sides of front bolsters)
• blade pivot bushing inserted into blade
• three brass scale rivets
Click to expand...

Plumbrdav or someone else, would you explain what a non-gravity operational design means? I am as stupid as my dog thinks I am, but I picked up a 3 dot last weekend and would like to learn.

Thanks!
 
Old thread.......very old.

PlumberDave is dead, God rest his Buck Brother soul.

I think you're describing the normal 110 design.

Dave had it right......the Three Dot is the best.

Prepare for other opinions.

:D
 
Der Verminator said:
Old thread.......very old.

PlumberDave is dead, God rest his Buck Brother soul.

I think you're describing the normal 110 design.

Dave had it right......the Three Dot is the best.

Prepare for other opinions.

:D
Click to expand...

Well it's an old thread, but a 39yo knife. May plumberdav rest in peace, with a Buck in hand.

Anyone else know what a non-gravity operational design means?

Thanks!
 
brown, I'll go there once for you. A 'gravity knife' was a term in the cross-hairs in Cali.. Not all states had the same response. It was thought to be a dangerous weapon if you could unfold the knife by the use of gravity. i.e. pinch the blade with the tip pointed away and let go of the handle and give it a little flick of the wrist. If the knife opens it's a gravity knife. Thus, Buck began installing a bushing in the blade pivot
that prevented this. This bushing being brass, caused slower movement at the pivot & blade and the paranoid officials were satisfied. DM
 
"Thus, Buck began installing a bushing in the blade pivot
that prevented this. This bushing being brass, caused slower movement at the pivot & blade and the paranoid officials were satisfied. DM"

I have to disagree with David. Buck changed the shape of the tang, which made more resistance to opening—it was not a bushing. A few years ago I wrote an article for the Newsletter (December, 2013) that discussed the "gravity knife" problem. Check that article.

Bert
 
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