better batoner (1 or 2 t's??)

screwthe49ers

screwthe49ers

Joined
Mar 14, 2008
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Strictly speaking on batoning, anyone here ever batoned w/ both the Ontario RTAK-2 & Kabar/Becker BK-9? If ya have, could you recommend one over the other? If there's a better knife for batoning around that price range, I'm definitely open to recommendations!! (maybe the Kershaw Outcast, I think maybe it may be lacking in batoning ability, but it looks like it would be an awesome limber)
 
What qualities make a knife a "good battoner" and why in the world would you buy a knife based on that, reshingling a barn? Chris
 
runningboar said:
What qualities make a knife a "good battoner" and why in the world would you buy a knife based on that, reshingling a barn? Chris
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capability of handling the baton impacts, "toughness" of blade, edge geometry suited to the task, spine that won't bind in the cut. If it's a PURE splitter, the opposite is true of the spine, since that becomes the wedge instead of the top part of the edge bevel grind.

For shingles i'd actually want a regular wood axe and broad axe or machete like blade. the length of blades the OP is discussing wouldn't really be ideal for anything larger than a (small) doghouse.

If you assume the OP is saying "Given that I have here a selection of knives that will do an excellent job in a general range of hiking/camping/wilderness tasks such as food prep, cutting of rope and notching wood and such, which of them will perform better as a batonned blade?" then it's a pretty reasonable question.

If the question was "Is it right or wrong to baton" I'd probably pass the thread up since it's been a bit overdone lately. really. But the question is which type of blade is BETTER for batonning, which is worth discussing.
 
runningboar said:
What qualities make a knife a "good battoner" and why in the world would you buy a knife based on that, reshingling a barn? Chris
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Because I base a knife's toughness on it's ability to baton... What in the world do you mean about reshingling a barn?!?!
 
shungles are often split from sections of log. a thin bladed edged tool is the best choice fo the work. In some woods, a machete works very well, for some a broad axe, but you could conveivably do it with a bushcraft knife being batonned. Problem is that in general you would be stuck with pretty small stuff.
 
I agree with Christof, a thin blade is best for splitting thin pieces like shingles, but a thick, wedge shaped blade, is more efficient for course splitting like you would use for firewood.

The thin blade offers more control, where as the wedge just forces the wood to break along weakest part of the grain.


Different horses for different courses.



"If you're not living on the edge, …you're taking up too much space."

Big Mike
 
I use a froe and a mallet for my shingles, mainly cedar, I like the way it weathers.

Different tools for different jobs. Chris
 
if you are looking for a knife for splitting fire wood any of the ones you mentione would be fine... also a nice axe and a belt knife will do allot perhaps even better,,, but that's my opinion...I've gotten by many timex getting my fire wood with a larger blade (mostly a machete)
 
runningboar said:
I use a froe and a mallet for my shingles, mainly cedar, I like the way it weathers.

Different tools for different jobs. Chris
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That would be my suggestion. Take a look at a few different froes to see what a good splitter would be. Actually it's called riving when you use a froe. A froe blade is usually flat with a short chisel grind. I've seen full flat but not often. Not a great multi use blade but that's what was designed to be struck with a baton or mallet. It has a plenty deep full thickness cross section to handle the repeated shock. Both of the knives you mention will do a good job. I use a Srapyard Dogfather alot because I like that thick spine.
 
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runningboar said:
I use a froe and a mallet for my shingles, mainly cedar, I like the way it weathers.

Different tools for different jobs. Chris
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing, a froe is what is used.
I also agree that batoning is kinda measure of toughness...at least to me anyway.
If it'll hold up to that...it'll cut 'taters also! :)
 
RescueRiley said:
if you are looking for a knife for splitting fire wood any of the ones you mentione would be fine... also a nice axe and a belt knife will do allot perhaps even better,,, but that's my opinion...I've gotten by many timex getting my fire wood with a larger blade (mostly a machete)
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Yeah, I always have my mora clipper, as it's an all-around fantastic knife. I've used it for more batoning than any of my others. I'm looking for a nice wood-handled belt axe to replace the 14" fiskars I use now. I'm probably gonna get a cs trailhawk in the next week or so. Don't know how it'll do splitting or chopping, but I'm gonna get more enjoyment outta staining it, wrapping the haft, & messing with the bevel.
 
I think you've all been misled. The OP wasn't asking anything about shingles. He asked which knife was a better "batoner" and the first response asked the rhetorical question, "why do you need to know: Are you shingling a barn?" As in, "why would you need to baton?" I don't think the OP is interested in shingles! Maybe I'm wrong...
 
screwthe49ers said:
Strictly speaking on batoning, anyone here ever batoned w/ both the Ontario RTAK-2 & Kabar/Becker BK-9?
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I have batoned with the BK-7, and the clip point cuts up your baton, and since the BK-9 has the same thing, that is one against the BK-9.

The Ontario RTAK II does not tend to cut up your baton.

And I think the RTAK II has a slightly longer blade, which means bigger wood, or more striking surface.

I think the RTAK II has it, hands down, including the better grip you get with the Micarta handle over the slippery Becker handles....

Marion
 
Frostyfingers said:
I think you've all been misled. The OP wasn't asking anything about shingles. He asked which knife was a better "batoner" and the first response asked the rhetorical question, "why do you need to know: Are you shingling a barn?" As in, "why would you need to baton?" I don't think the OP is interested in shingles! Maybe I'm wrong...
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Partly right, the question I asked was why would you buy a knife based on it's batonning ability, the only thing I could think of is making shingles, and yes it was somewhat of a rhetorical question.

Now to clear some things up, I do believe batoning is a worthwhile skill, I do not think it is worthwhile enough to base your knife purchase on. I know people that baton opinels, I regularly baton my 14" tramotina, it is not a test of a knife's toughness unless you are batonning something other than wood and or your technique is wacky. Chris
 
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I am not trying to stir up anything, although it seems that this guy's reviews are really controversial. Both of the models you are asking about were tested extensively - including batonning - at:

http://knifetests.com/
 
Marion David Poff said:
I have batoned with the BK-7, and the clip point cuts up your baton, and since the BK-9 has the same thing, that is one against the BK-9.

The Ontario RTAK II does not tend to cut up your baton.

And I think the RTAK II has a slightly longer blade, which means bigger wood, or more striking surface.

I think the RTAK II has it, hands down, including the better grip you get with the Micarta handle over the slippery Becker handles....

Marion
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Thanks, that is exactly the type of response/answer I was hoping to hear!
 
Others to consider as well would be the Cold Steel Recon Scout, Ka-Bar Heavy Bowie and the Ranger RD7 !
 
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