Better chopper, FBM LE or NMFBM LE?

I actually traded my FFFBM for the CGFBM b/c I liked the lighter weight, for fatigue-reduction. So I may have to do some terrifying and heretical mods to the NM when it arrives, like a fuller perhaps? Ooh, that's gonna be a lot of sanding . . . . .
 
That reminds me. A Skinny NMFBM would be cool - perhaps something like .200". Sometime later. Now I just want a beastly chopper instead of a more machete like solution. :p
 
I sure hope the convex grind is here to stay. I really like maintaining them better than a flat ground edge.
 
moonwilson said:
I'm wondering how well the NMFBM will stack up against this mamma-jamma:

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I still want one of these, badly. A NMFBM isn't too far off, though.
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I would love to get my hands on that one. I have seen various pics before, (just looked back and saw the Chuckett model name)?

I think the NMFBM LE will out chop the FBMLE for sure. That extra blade length, and the convex grind will be a chopping demon. The thinner blade I think will actually help make it an even better chopper (perhaps less arm fatigue, and deeper bites).
 
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I just scored an LE. My seventh Busse and I've only been buying them for a year... :eek:

Two questions:

When does a piglet become a hog?

Will someone teach me how to maintain the edge on an 11 inch convex INFI?

Am I going to need to buy power tools.... I foresee a concerned wife.
 
Get one of the biggest DMT diamond hones you can find. I think they still sell 11 1/2 inch ones. Get a red (fine) one for maintaing your blade. Later you can get a black (extra coarse) one for taking out nicks. Right off of the fine DMT your blade should be great. If you want to go further buy an Arkie translucent and make it razor sharp using honing oil on the stone. The arkies are expensive. If you prefer a more economical solution, get a Spyderco white fine or white extra fine (eight inch) for that last touch up instead of an Arkie translucent. Using a power tool on a busse is considered a felony in many states. If somebody catches you it could also destroy your credit rating.
 
To maintain the convex zero-edge of the LE I recommend you use a strop and/or the mousepad/sandpaper technique. There are several very informative threads on this forum about how to sharpen a convex edge :thumbup:

DMT hones and arkansas stones can certainly give you a scary-sharp edge, but it will no longer have a zero-edge geometry.
 
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I agree that the TENDENCY when using benchstones is for a new bevel to slowly start forming on any knife. But it is also probably true that stropping will start to form the same kind of secondary bevel as well. Both the use of strops and of benchstones require a lot of practice. I think if one trains to use a benchstone to sharpen in a manner adequate to convex knifes you can maintain the convex profile. The problem is that people sharpen a convex knife the same way that they sharpen all other knives. If you had invested as much time in learning to maintain a convex grind while using a benchstone as you spent learning to sharpen a convex on a strop you probably would find that it is possible with practice. I have sharpened Randall convex knives for years with benchstones and have never developed a secondary bevel, nor does Randall in their product instructions recommend any special treatment for convex grinds. I think I will always favor benchstones over mousepads. Sharpening is a skill. If we botch things it is not because of the tool but because of the user. I think there are no dogmas for sharpening there are only preferences and learned skills. My best regards and some day I will try your advise, but until then its EZE-LAP, DMT's and Arkies. Over and out.
 
Ikarus said:
To maintain the convex zero-edge of the LE I recommend you use a strop and/or the mousepad/sandpaper technique. There are several very informative threads on this forum about how to sharpen a convex edge :thumbup:

DMT hones and arkansas stones can certainly give you a scary-sharp edge, but it will no longer have a zero-edge geometry.
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Is the CG also Zero-edge convexed? Can I maintain that beast using my Spyderco Sharpmaker? Should I get the Diamond rods?

Thanks in advance.
 
Horn Dog said:
Well heck, what's an ounce? I had said that I would not buy a chopper heavier than my FFBM, but this put me over the edge! Called sweet Amy 0 and ordered the world's heaviest camp machete! Let the chips fly!:D
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Please, don't call it a machete. Blasphemy!
 
I use bench-stones and put a convex edge on all my knives. It's not hard really (and it wasn't intentional either).
My intentions were just to maintain the back bevel, but it ends up curving. What I do is grind at three different angles, first really shallow, then a little less, and only the last angle gets to the edge. If I were a machine there would be three distinct angles, but since I'm not it all blurs together nicely.

Make sure you grind evenly on both sides, you don't want the edge going off center.

As for that NMFBM...
I don't have a Busse yet, the NMFBM is only $80 more than the FBM was, Magnum handles are standard, convex ground, you don't see 11.5" blades every day... Especially in INFI.
This is killing me.
 
moonwilson said:
I would venture to guess that the NMFBM will be a better chopper than a FBM or FFBM. The extra length is the real kicker. The Busse site states the thickness of both the CG and LE versions at .25+". Hopefully that means they will be right around .25", any thicker than that and the things are gonna need kickstands!
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I don't know about you, Moonie, but I just can't take any chances. :grumpy:

It MIGHT be a better Chopper. So ... I need "a few."

On order. :thumbup::D:thumbup:
 
rickppoole said:
I just scored an LE. My seventh Busse and I've only been buying them for a year... :eek:

Two questions:

When does a piglet become a hog?

Will someone teach me how to maintain the edge on an 11 inch convex INFI?

Am I going to need to buy power tools.... I foresee a concerned wife.
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Just one knife might do it.

Much depends on attitude and behavior. Hang around, post a bit, chat with other Piglets and Hogs ... and we'll see where it goes.

In the end, only Jerry can say whether any particular person is a Hog.

Now ... anybody Hoggish enough to get an NMFBM-LE is definitely travelling down the right road. At speed. :D
 
Guyon said:
Anyone with NMFBM issues needs to grow some muscles. :D

OP wields a FFBM without issues, and he's about 107 or so. Of course, he gets plenty of riboflavin.
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You bet I do.

Other vitamins, too. :D;)

I'm also ambi-chopstrous. :thumbup:
 
Outdoors Fanatic said:
Is the CG also Zero-edge convexed? Can I maintain that beast using my Spyderco Sharpmaker? Should I get the Diamond rods?

Thanks in advance.
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The CG does not have zero-edge geometry. I often maintain my non-convex Busses by freehanding with the sharpmaker rods, and it works great. Unless you intend to reprofile it, the brown rods should be enough. The ultra fine rods will help you put a truly hair popping edge on it though :thumbup:

Alex p. Schorsc,
I guess I just need to practice more. People have been sharpening convex edges with stones for a LONG time, so there's nothing wrong with that!
 
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