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Autosol does a pretty good job removing stains.
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Beware FP-10 oil and Khukuris
- Thread starter falar
- Start date
sweetcostarica
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+1
Above: Polishing Tools-for Dremel
They work well but be very careful with a Dremel tool. You could do more damage to your Knife, more than what is has already (from personal experience).
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2003
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i've dipped certain "very precious knives" in liquid (melted) parafin, and called it a day. those won't rust 
rem oil wipes seem to do a good job, but they're not food safe.
lots of people swear by ballistol, but iirc, it's mostly mineral oil and cloves (japanese knife oil), and some "stuff". food safe even.
renne wax was popular a while ago.
i've a khuk that i actually spray painted with this epoxy stuff to approximate a "factory coating" - that's not going to rust either.
there have been some pix of someone with a duracoat or ceracoated khuk - those were awesome!
rem oil wipes seem to do a good job, but they're not food safe.
lots of people swear by ballistol, but iirc, it's mostly mineral oil and cloves (japanese knife oil), and some "stuff". food safe even.
renne wax was popular a while ago.
i've a khuk that i actually spray painted with this epoxy stuff to approximate a "factory coating" - that's not going to rust either.
there have been some pix of someone with a duracoat or ceracoated khuk - those were awesome!
sweetcostarica
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Looks like there are countless ways to keep you blade from rusting. The Japanese sword oil (mineral oil with fragrance) or the Nepali Oil (not sure maybe mineral oil too) have protected their farm and war blades for centuries. I use mineral oil because it has a long history of working well and it is cost effective. Also, the formula doesn't change like many modern oils and is food safe.
Above: Camellia Oil (spiked with clove essence) was the original samurai's sword oil. Choji Oil came after Camellia Oil.
I used to use Camellia Oil on my Katanas until I sold them all. Those swords were oiled once every 3 months (Location: Las Vegas, NV about 9 % humidity).
Below: Shobu Zukuri's blade, one of my old swords
The key is regular maintenance. Depending on where you live, just oil your tools and check them from time to time and you should have no problems. Find an oil or method that work and stick with it.
It is hard not to want to try something new but it's a risk as the topic of the thread shows. Be careful out there.
Above: Camellia Oil (spiked with clove essence) was the original samurai's sword oil. Choji Oil came after Camellia Oil.
I used to use Camellia Oil on my Katanas until I sold them all. Those swords were oiled once every 3 months (Location: Las Vegas, NV about 9 % humidity).
Below: Shobu Zukuri's blade, one of my old swords
The key is regular maintenance. Depending on where you live, just oil your tools and check them from time to time and you should have no problems. Find an oil or method that work and stick with it.
It is hard not to want to try something new but it's a risk as the topic of the thread shows. Be careful out there.
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sweetcostarica
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Sounds like an unfortunate accident. But at least your knife looks almost like it was before.
This one was so perfect I just couldn't bring myself to making it into a "user".
That looks like water stains, to me. I've been using FP10 for nearly 20 years, on guns and knives, and have never experienced what you've had happen.
I don't use FP10 on my HI knives, anymore, because mineral oil works just as well and costs a LOT less.
I use Ballistol on my black powder guns and sometimes on my HIs, but it's also a lot more expensive than mineral oil.
I don't use FP10 on my HI knives, anymore, because mineral oil works just as well and costs a LOT less.
I use Ballistol on my black powder guns and sometimes on my HIs, but it's also a lot more expensive than mineral oil.
This is just a shot in the dark, but if you had the FP-10 for a long time or in a moist environment (like a garage or basement in rainy season), it might have gotten contaminated with water vapor or some other substance that rusted your knife. Apparently the stuff is in wide use on guns, including your own previously, so it's not likely that it always rusts the steel. Maybe 5160 steel is more susceptible than gun steel. Or maybe there was some condensation moisture on the blade that wasn't visible and the FP-10 sealed it in.
I'm not really defending FP-10, since I've never used it, but if we know of only one bad experience there might have been some special circumstances.
If you have another piece of 5160 steel, perhaps on a blade that is already scarred up from use, perhaps you could put some of the FP-10 on a small area and see if it also makes it rust. Unless you've already tossed the FP-10 in disgust.
-- Dave
I'm not really defending FP-10, since I've never used it, but if we know of only one bad experience there might have been some special circumstances.
If you have another piece of 5160 steel, perhaps on a blade that is already scarred up from use, perhaps you could put some of the FP-10 on a small area and see if it also makes it rust. Unless you've already tossed the FP-10 in disgust.
-- Dave
MagenDavid
Want some Kosher Salami?
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Would any of you Ballistol users know how it affects horn or water buffalo leather?
Well the Germans designed it to be used on all materials...leather, wood, and steel. I'd expect it not to be bad for horn but who knows.
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i've tried ballistol on mine in the past. wood grips tho. works fine, but tarnishes the brass* & gives it a not unpleasant glossy patina. to me it smells nice, but some don't like the aroma. i have a bit of trouble finding it here in the UK, so i use plain mineral oil (baby oil) for just about everything. (sadly, it refuses to take the dog for a walk)
*-ballistol was compounded to also remove copper fouling from rifles, so it will attack brass a bit. it's also anti-septic for wounds, softens your skin, it's edible, was used to treat ulcers, skin & foot fungus, and is an all -around do everything snake oil...it would walk the dog if i let it, but it can't grab the leash yet - i'm working on that.
from ballistoluk.co.uk
"In 1874, Friedrich Wilhelm Klever, an attorney with interest in economy, founded the Klever Company" in Cologne, Germany. He began producing oils and greases from coal and eventually bought a coal mine so he would not run out of raw materials. At the turn of the century the imperial German Army (the Wehrmacht) began to look for an all-around oil. The idea was to maintain the metallic parts of the soldier's rifle but also to protect the wooden stocks and his leather gear. The soldier was to use the same oil for the treatment of minor wounds, sores and scratches. Friedrich's son, Dr. Helmut Klever, had become a professor of chemistry at the Technical University of Karlsruhe. He set out to develop what the Army wanted. In 1904 he succeeded to produce a special oil which he named BALLISTOL, from the word ballistic and the Latin word for oil, 'oleum'. Thus the descriptive meaning of the word BALLISTOL is: ballistic oil. It soon became obvious that the new wonder Oil had truly amazing capabilities. The Army tested it and adopted it in 1905 and it stayed in use until 1945. But the word had spread and within a decade hunters, boaters, motorists, hikers, mountaineers and outdoorsmen in Germany, Austria and Switzerland convened to the new miracle oil.
"
p.s. - it's also water miscable, can be applied in the rain, mixed with water and sprayed and will continue to protect from corrosion and rusting. a real miracle oil unlike the poisonous stuff touted nowadays like the subject oil of this thread.
*-ballistol was compounded to also remove copper fouling from rifles, so it will attack brass a bit. it's also anti-septic for wounds, softens your skin, it's edible, was used to treat ulcers, skin & foot fungus, and is an all -around do everything snake oil...it would walk the dog if i let it, but it can't grab the leash yet - i'm working on that.
from ballistoluk.co.uk
"In 1874, Friedrich Wilhelm Klever, an attorney with interest in economy, founded the Klever Company" in Cologne, Germany. He began producing oils and greases from coal and eventually bought a coal mine so he would not run out of raw materials. At the turn of the century the imperial German Army (the Wehrmacht) began to look for an all-around oil. The idea was to maintain the metallic parts of the soldier's rifle but also to protect the wooden stocks and his leather gear. The soldier was to use the same oil for the treatment of minor wounds, sores and scratches. Friedrich's son, Dr. Helmut Klever, had become a professor of chemistry at the Technical University of Karlsruhe. He set out to develop what the Army wanted. In 1904 he succeeded to produce a special oil which he named BALLISTOL, from the word ballistic and the Latin word for oil, 'oleum'. Thus the descriptive meaning of the word BALLISTOL is: ballistic oil. It soon became obvious that the new wonder Oil had truly amazing capabilities. The Army tested it and adopted it in 1905 and it stayed in use until 1945. But the word had spread and within a decade hunters, boaters, motorists, hikers, mountaineers and outdoorsmen in Germany, Austria and Switzerland convened to the new miracle oil.
"
p.s. - it's also water miscable, can be applied in the rain, mixed with water and sprayed and will continue to protect from corrosion and rusting. a real miracle oil unlike the poisonous stuff touted nowadays like the subject oil of this thread.
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