BFK sharpening thoughts sought

bluemax_1 said:
In this case, I think it’s a case of using the term differently.

The image in this link, is what I think of, when the term ‘burr’ is used.

https://support.wickededgeusa.com/portal/en/kb/articles/drawing-a-burr

A steel is for realigning the edge, not the burr. The burr is weak and flimsy, and rolls easily. It’s pretty much a tiny piece of metal foil along the edge (and the image exaggerates the length). The thin edge of that ‘foil’ can cut (just as the edge of paper can cause paper cuts), but it will roll very easily, and once it does, it doesn’t cut well at all anymore.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link, that's probably the most efficient description I've ever read on the subject. I might start sending it to my friends who ask for sharpening advice.

I think you're right about understanding the term differently. I always understood that a "toothy" edge was achieved by raising a burr, then honing it until it is very fine and straight. Then the steel (or ceramic, etc) was used periodically to realign the fine burr as needed.

I was not aware that the steel was used to realign a deformed edge, although that conceptually makes sense to me. But, if the very apex of the edge is thin and flimsy enough to curl over and need to be realigned, then wouldn't it effectively become at least roughly equivalent to a burr?

This may not be the most definitive source of info, but it seems to echo what I've read elsewhere. Frankly, it may further confuse the issue as it sure seems to me that they're describing a burr.

www.sharpeningsupplies.com

How to Use a Sharpening Steel

Learn how to properly use a sharpening steel to maintain your kitchen knife's edge between sharpenings. Follow these steps for effective steeling and prolong the sharpness of your knives!
www.sharpeningsupplies.com www.sharpeningsupplies.com

I'm perfectly happy to have my understanding corrected; I want to be sure I'm using the proper nomenclature.
 
oldmanwilly said:
I was not aware that the steel was used to realign a deformed edge, although that conceptually makes sense to me. But, if the very apex of the edge is thin and flimsy enough to curl over and need to be realigned, then wouldn't it effectively become at least roughly equivalent to a burr?
Click to expand...
While the very apex of a fine edge is thin, a burr, as the illustration in the link shows, is literally a bit of metal that’s like a bit of very thin foil extending past the actual edge.

Compared to the edge, a burr is much flimsier. On a microscopic scale, the illustration gives you a good idea of scale wrt the amount of metal supporting an actual edge, vs a burr.
 
Happy to report that the knife in question, that I was originally referring to when I started the thread, has been re-sharpened to 20 degrees per side, and is just fine. I think my buddy was looking for the exact stones/grits that Nate uses, but I failed to convey that and things went a little sideways. He sharpened it while we were on the phone last night and it didn’t take very long. Can’t wait until my BFK arrives. It will be my “Best Freaking Knife!”
 
dhwfd46 said:
SNIP - I think my buddy was looking for the exact stones/grits that Nate uses… SNIP
Click to expand...

Nathan the Machinist

Post in thread 'Random Thought Thread'

I ordered some extra hard Japanese style water stones to try out for our sharpening process here, but they would wear down too fast for our process. They don't tolerate a nasty burr of Delta 3V too good.

Of all the things available in this high-tech world, an enormous white Arkansas stone has been the answer.

It has to be dressed every day.
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P

Thread 'What Stones for Sharpening?'

I'll be interested to see what stones/technique you prefer for sharpening your CPK. I expect to receive my first CPK soon, so your information will be appreciated.
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Nathan the Machinist

Post in thread 'your preferred sharpening method for CPK'

I blend some 2 micron diamond powder into my green stropping shmoo to address that issue

real stropping compound (look at straight razor sites) works better than buffing compound block.

You don't want to build it up too thick, but it does glaze and dull like any abrasive, so I refresh it with a thinned out mixture made with compound and alcohol to mix it up with a finger tip and get some fresh particles onto the surface without building it up.

I sharpen my own knives by hand on oil stones. You guys get a low speed powered sharpening on ceramic belts under flood coolant, and then two big...
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AR-Trvlr

Post in thread 'CPK Encyclopedia'

Miscellaneous Information

What is Delta 3V Video - https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/what-is-delta-3v-i-made-a-loooong-video.1794548/
CPK Steels - https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/cpk-steels-d2-3v-4v.1571552/
3V Heat Treat History - https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/3v-heat-treat-history.1656132/
A good A2 heat treat regimin - https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/the-ask-nathan-a-question-thread.1425245/page-244#post-20403553
Delta 3V Exclusive - https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/delta-3v-recipe-exclusive-or-shared.1767873/
AEBL vs. Delta 3V -...
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