bg 42

atakach

atakach

Joined
Jan 17, 2008
Messages
3,721
wondering if bg42 can be welded in a can with maybe powdered 1018 or 1085, i have never welded in a can, but a particular idea i have is going to have to be done in that fashion.

andrew takach
 
I'm not sure if it will work. BTW where did you get BG 42? Maybe youve had it for a while? I cant find it anymore. I love that stuff.
 
a machine shop not far from my house, a buddy has a friend kinda thing. what i have are very large shavings (alot bigger than pipe threadings) kinda like small chunks.

what im thinking bruce is taking a pipe (stainless) about 1 1/4''- 1 1/2'', and filling with chunks and powder then welding up into a billet.

probably a better way to do this, with much simplier materials but i just hate to see the chunks go to waste. i have about 10lbs. of them at least.


andrew takach
 
It's kind of a waste of time to use 1018 for any blade .The 1084/BG42 could cause HT problems since the HT requirements are so different. You would be better off mixing other stainless steels with BG42.
 
the dissimilar steels don't really matter in heat treat , when your doing san mai though?? do they? i guess i should have added that the final piece would have a h/c steel core, mainly because i have no ht oven to ht stainless
 
mete said:
It's kind of a waste of time to use 1018 for any blade .The 1084/BG42 could cause HT problems since the HT requirements are so different. You would be better off mixing other stainless steels with BG42.
Click to expand...

Hell, I recently dumped out a few pounds of fine D2 shavings. I actually paused a moment and wondered if anybody would have a use for them. I'll bet they woulda done the trick. I'll keep them next time.
 
Lets start at the beginning. When planning any damascus type blade, you have to look at the materials together. BG-42 makes a great blade.1018 makes a filler that will make contrast and lower carbon content. 1085 makes a good blade and a dark etch. However when put together the problem arises in the HT. BG-42 austenitizes at 2050F, 1018 at 1600F (it doesn't harden much without carburizing), and 1085 hardens at 1500F.

So, you can see the problem here
Assuming a canister billet was made and fully forge welded up, the 1018 will rise and the 1085 will fall in carbon content. The BG-42 will be affected somewhat, but it is antibody's guess what it will turn into.

If HT is done at 1600F, the BG-42 won't get hard at all, the 10XX will harden to whatever its carbon average allows.....and you will have an attractive (maybe) and not very useful billet.

If hardened at 2050F,with a nice 30 minute soak, ....well I think you can guess what the grain structure will be.

Sometimes 10 pounds of free steel is just not a good idea to mix into a billet.

With all that said, if you want to try it and see what the pattern looks like, and use the resulting billet for san-mai, with a 1085 core, then go for it.
Stacy
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
Hell, I recently dumped out a few pounds of fine D2 shavings. I actually paused a moment and wondered if anybody would have a use for them. I'll bet they woulda done the trick. I'll keep them next time.
Click to expand...


i'd have made use of them, i like to sometimes try some crazy stuff, i know it's nothing that hasnt been tried already, but it's new to me.

andrew
 
sorry stacey,

i guess i should have saved every one the aggervation, and added the fact that this would be a san mai billet.

andrew
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top