Bicycle riders - which one do you have and do you like it?

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Boink

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Jun 6, 2002
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I've been looking into a hybrid and find the geometry of them all over the map - sort of like all the various vehicles under the SUV umbrella. Some bikes lean more toward Mountain, while some lean toward Road. So I started to check out more comfortable road bikes. A few folks voiced that steel frames take up a lot of shock, but there's not a lot of steel frames to be found these days. What are you riding and how much do you like it?
 
Hey Boink,

Best advice I can give you is to go to severla bike shops in your area, talk to the salespeople and go with the shop that has the most knowledge and best attitude. I say this because your question is asked every single day in thousands of shops and a good dealer with a good staff can help you find the perfect bike.

All that being said, a hybrid does neither well, it's a better off road bike than a road bike and it's a better off-road bike than an MTB. But it's not better than either a pure MTB or road. You need to look at the kind of riding you want to do and pick the bike for it.

I hope this helps
AL
 
If you are heavy and ride rough places now and then, stick to MTB 26" wheels.

If you ride more road, get ridgid forks. If you ride in a lot of really nasty wet environments get a hub gear rather than a cassette. (More trouble to fix a flat but less agro with mess and wear and tear, plus the chain line is always perfect so the loss of efficency by using a hub is gained, to some extent back by the great chain line)

I find 1.5" tyres to be the best, not too wide to slow you down, not too thin to sink into softish ground.

Dont skimp on parts or you will forever be adjusting them, get the best you can afford and cry only once, not each time you go up a hill and the fornicating things wont settle in properly :)

If your bike excepts it or you are building one up from parts (I reccomend this) get a front disk, and a rear if the frame will accept it. (Surly bikes make excellent frames that accept pretty much any compo of parts, they are steel too, so you get a nicer ride than alu)

There are millions of little quirky things, this is the cool thing about bikes. My bike is a real mongrel but its absolutely perfect for me. A great compromise of cost, weight and comfort. It will take a while to get right, but if you build it yourself (or have the shop do it) you will avaoid a lot of things that will make you think of upgrading.

You should be looking at about $600+ for a real dream of a ride. I know you can get stuff a lot cheaper but I guarantee that if you ride often you will soon want to swap out factory parts, its easier to just get it right the first time.

Here is my list if I was doing it again

Surly frame
Shimano Tiagra Chain wheel (Big cogs at the front)
Tiagra rear mech too
XT 9 spd shifters
Brooks B17 Saddle
AVID Ball Bearing Disk Breaks (BBDS)
Hand built 36 spoke triple butted wheels on decent hubs (Minimum Shimano XT) and Mavic rims

If you ride at night get a SON Dynohub built in (Sexy)
 
I too am going to buy a bicycle, and have been considering it for some time. Mostly for excercise. But I can't get past the mountain bike / road bike dilema either. I used to ride everywhere when I was in college and younger, and even was once a mountain bike instructor.

A mountain bike would be much more practical around here, so many places where a road bike can't go. But deep inside I have a much younger person's "need for speed".

Whichever I decide, I do want to build my own. Start with a quality frame and add wheels, deraileurs, handlebars, brakes...

Best Wishes,
Bob
 
I mainly ride an aluminium-framed Trek 1500 Triple.

Choose your scoot according to your need.

If you have to cover short distances, rough ground and/or steep slopes, consider a MTB.

If you're on smooth ground, and merely want to commute or travel short distances, get a hybrid.

If you've got long distances to commute, and the terrain is fairly level, get a 2-ring road bike.

If you've got long distances to commute, and the terrain is undulating, consider a 3-ring road bike.

If you want to carry loads, e.g. shopping, or tools to work, consider a touring bike.

One thing to bear in mind: thieves will typically prefer to steal MTBs or anything with flat handlebars before anything with dropped bars.

Get riding, get happy & get fit!

maximus otter
 
I think a cheap mountain bike with semi slick tyres (or tires for you in the US) would ber a good option. I've got a road bike (though old) and a nice mountain bike. I'm not that keen on hybrid bikes at all. I seem to remeber treck doing a bike based around a mountain bike frame which then had rigid forks put on to increase the head angle for road work.
I really like the speed of road bikes on flats but it took me a while to get used to the brakes not being as powerful (I use hydro discs on my MTB). The drop handle bars are something I never got on with.
 
Good Advice, Maximus.

When thinking "steel", there are many different grades. Most cheapies are made from heavy "HI-Ten" carbon steel. Up a grade is Chrome-Moly. Up from that is "butted" cro-mo (thick on the ends where the welds go, thin in the middle)

Then on to various exotica that none of us can afford.

Alumninum is rather stiff, but lots of hybrids now have suspension, including a sprung seatpost. Works great for MTBs, light and strong.
 
I ride an Evil Imperial. Custom small company in boston. Its a freeride/dh hardtail frame, meant to take huge abuse and never fail. Its very slack and unforgiving, but nothing is better for technical freeriding or drops to flat like we have here in MA... Not a solution to your problem, though. Most people wouldnt know how to ride a bike like this:
DSC00769.jpg
 
mwerner said:
Good Advice, Maximus.
Click to expand...

I agree. I'll just add that I had a hybrid once. I found myself continually lowering the bar and raising the saddle trying to make is more like a road bike. I kept wanting to go faster. Finally, I just got a road bike and that was the end of it.......until the second road bike. Currently I have two road bikes and a MTB. I ride the MTB mostly when I ride on the road with my wife. Try to foresee what kind of riding you want to do in the future and go that direction now.
 
I've been into cycling since 1972. I generally ride 2000-5000 miles a year.

I have a mountain bike and several road bikes. If you're going to ride on pavement, get a road bike because the narrower, higher pressure tires are much more efficient.

One of the bikes I have that I use a lot for commuting is kind of a cross between a road bike and a mountain bike, but it's not a "hybrid." It's a "cyclo-cross" bike. It was designed for racing off-road. It's profile looks like a regular road bike, and it has drop handlebars rather than mountain bike bars. It will fit wider tires than most road bikes -- I even have a set of "knobbies" for it for snow and mud. The kind of cyclo-cross bike I have (a titanium Airborne) is no longer available in North America, but Trek makes a really nice one -- the X-01. http://www2.trekbikes.com/Bikes/Specialty_Bikes/Cyclocross/XO_1/index.php

Another alternative would be a true touring bike, like the steel frame Trek 520. http://www2.trekbikes.com/Bikes/Specialty_Bikes/Touring/520/index.php In general, touring bikes are more comfortable than other road bikes, will take somewhat wider tires, and can be equiped with racks and fenders (or "mudguards" for Maximus).

Here's another piece of advice. Throw away the saddle your bike comes with and get a real, traditional Brooks leather saddle. I recommend the B-17. Your butt will thank you.

Go to www.rivendellbicycles.com to see beautiful steel bikes made with traditional brazed lugs (as opposed to just welding it together).

Good luck!
 
I've been cycling for about twenty five years now. I started on a road frame while in college in the Virginia hill country around VA Tech... I moved to Seattle in '84 and found the road frame useless in commuting under all the adverse conditions Seattle's weather has to offer... I sold my road bike and bought a mountain bike... haven't gone back, even for both road touring and long distance trips like our STP (twice on a MB and in two days both times!)
I've solo-toured the San Juan Islands out here in Puget Sound as well as biking across the Canadian San Juans... again, all on a MB...

I set mine up years ago with the Fat City Slicks, at 2" wide... Until I started long distance riding out here.. I went to 1" hi pressure tires, with Mr. Tuffy strips, Chro-Mo frame, slightly raked front fork, modified triple crank (I still really like a big gear for a long downhill fly! :D ) fenders and lites... And for anyone dealing with the rigors of truly urban commuting, I've found this combination to be the best of all worlds!

What ever you do... Get a bike that fits!!! That's really about the only advice worth listening to - if it don't fit right, you'll be forever tweaking your position and/or cursing your ride!!
 
who is it that makes a wheel set to take road tyres but is meant for mountain bikes with disc brakes?
 
I ride a Giant Sedona, mountain bike, Giant makes alot of inexpensive bikes with alot of nice options and uses Shimano parts which is a plus because they are easy to find and replace and are decent enough for casual riding. My Giant has disc brakes which is a first for me and they rock. I flipped myself over end a few times from too much front brake ...it stops fast lol. I have a set of off road and pavment tires, the bike is heavey enough for off road and light enough to cruise the pavment. paid like 600 hundred for it. Giant used to make like every bodies bike frames including Scwhin. Neither are American made anymore i dont think. many beautiful bikes are made here in the states but tend to be the higher end ones. Id love one~
 
Andy_L said:
who is it that makes a wheel set to take road tyres but is meant for mountain bikes with disc brakes?
Click to expand...

Andy, get your wheels hand built by Merlin Cycles in the UK, they are absolutely bomb proof. I'm 15.5 stone and ride rough, they have stayed true from day one. The ability to take a disk is dictated by the Hub. You can order whatever you need in a lot of combinations.

http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/bikes-and-wheels.htm#wheels
 
KeithAM said:
I've been into cycling since 1972. I generally ride 2000-5000 miles a year.

I have a mountain bike and several road bikes. If you're going to ride on pavement, get a road bike because the narrower, higher pressure tires are much more efficient.

One of the bikes I have that I use a lot for commuting is kind of a cross between a road bike and a mountain bike, but it's not a "hybrid." It's a "cyclo-cross" bike. It was designed for racing off-road. It's profile looks like a regular road bike, and it has drop handlebars rather than mountain bike bars. It will fit wider tires than most road bikes -- I even have a set of "knobbies" for it for snow and mud. The kind of cyclo-cross bike I have (a titanium Airborne) is no longer available in North America, but Trek makes a really nice one -- the X-01. http://www2.trekbikes.com/Bikes/Specialty_Bikes/Cyclocross/XO_1/index.php

Another alternative would be a true touring bike, like the steel frame Trek 520. http://www2.trekbikes.com/Bikes/Specialty_Bikes/Touring/520/index.php In general, touring bikes are more comfortable than other road bikes, will take somewhat wider tires, and can be equiped with racks and fenders (or "mudguards" for Maximus).

Here's another piece of advice. Throw away the saddle your bike comes with and get a real, traditional Brooks leather saddle. I recommend the B-17. Your butt will thank you.

Go to www.rivendellbicycles.com to see beautiful steel bikes made with traditional brazed lugs (as opposed to just welding it together).

Good luck!
Click to expand...




Cyclocross bikes make great "do it all" bikes. Throw a set of knobbies on, and go hit the mud. Put on some road tires, and you've got most of the performance of a regular road bike. Put on some hybrid tires, and you are good to go cruising around town or commuting to work. I'm a fan of the LeMond Poprad, personally. It's got a True Temper OX Platinum (great steel) frame, as opposed to the XO-1's aluminum. It rides much, much better than the Trek. It comes in disc and non disc versions for '06, and is a sweet Merckx orange. I think they actually call it Cannibal Orange.
 
Eric1115 said:
I'm a fan of the LeMond Poprad, personally. It's got a True Temper OX Platinum (great steel) frame, as opposed to the XO-1's aluminum. It rides much, much better than the Trek.
Click to expand...

I agree with your recommendation of the steel Poprad over the alu X0-1. I mentioned the XO-1 mainly because Trek bikes are available almost everywhere. In truth, I've only ever owned one Aluminum bike, a Cannondale, which I sold. The ride was harsh. All others have been steel, titanium, of carbon fiber. Good steel has a very nice ride quality.

Another bike to look at is the Bianchi Volpe, designed to be suitable for both cyclo-cross and light touring. http://www.bianchiusa.com/570.html

I also agree with everyone who says that fit is crucial. The most expensive bike in the world would be useless to you if it doesn't fit. A really good bike shop will get all of your measurements and use a "fit kit" to ensure proper size. Be sure to let them know your purpose -- young racer type bike shop employees sometimes to want to put you on a smaller frame with an extreme bent- over position that's great for 20-something racers, but not for a middle aged enthusiast like me. Having the handlebars a little higher then a typical racing bike is more comfortable for me. Good fit looks at more than your height or inseam -- it takes into account the length of your arms, or reach. A good bike shop will switch out stems to get you optimum reach.
 
I have 2 big, black ugly 20+ yr old "Mary Poppins" bikes- fenders, luggage racks, etc. that get me from point a to point b in a minimum of style & a maximum of comfort. Wish I still had my old Dutch bike I had in Germany. Totally indestructable & very fast.
 
Saves, do you commute to the city by train like I do? I'd like to get a Brompton folding bike. I saw one on the train the other day. It folds smaller than any folding bike I've ever seen. Has a rubber shock absorber in the rear, too. I quipped to the owner that it looked like something James Bond would bring along and he replied that James Bond just might because it's made in the UK. :) It has smaller wheels situated by the bottom bracket that allows one to roll the bike along while in the folded configuration like luggage.
 
KeithAM said:
I agree with your recommendation of the steel Poprad over the alu X0-1. I mentioned the XO-1 mainly because Trek bikes are available almost everywhere. In truth, I've only ever owned one Aluminum bike, a Cannondale, which I sold. The ride was harsh. All others have been steel, titanium, of carbon fiber. Good steel has a very nice ride quality.

Another bike to look at is the Bianchi Volpe, designed to be suitable for both cyclo-cross and light touring. http://www.bianchiusa.com/570.html

I also agree with everyone who says that fit is crucial. The most expensive bike in the world would be useless to you if it doesn't fit. A really good bike shop will get all of your measurements and use a "fit kit" to ensure proper size. Be sure to let them know your purpose -- young racer type bike shop employees sometimes to want to put you on a smaller frame with an extreme bent- over position that's great for 20-something racers, but not for a middle aged enthusiast like me. Having the handlebars a little higher then a typical racing bike is more comfortable for me. Good fit looks at more than your height or inseam -- it takes into account the length of your arms, or reach. A good bike shop will switch out stems to get you optimum reach.
Click to expand...


Absolutely spend a little while getting fit issues worked out. Since LeMond is owned by the Trek parent company, you should be able to order a Poprad from anybody who carries Trek. The LeMonds come in odd sizes (53, 55, 57cm, etc) but they ride a little bit big. If you ride a 56cm Trek, a 55cm LeMond should fit almost identically.
 
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