Big Chopping Knives?

All kinds of philosophies on the chopper front. Some folks prefer a small axe or hatchet combined with a smaller knife (SAK, small fixed blade, etc.). Others seem to prefer a medium sized (6 to 7 inch) blade that is an all around tool. They carry it and nothing else. I'm in the camp that prefers one large blade (8 to 10 inches) and one small blade. I find the larger choppers easier to use and easier to pack than a small axe, and just as good at splitting when you throw a baton into the equation. I also carry some sort of smaller knife (3" fixed blade) for detail work or field dressing duties and a multi-tool (SAK or Leatherman) for everything else. With those three tools, I can take care of any situation that comes up.

Also, you can do lighter work with the big chopper if push comes to shove. Certainly easier than with an axe. Still, I'd rather carry a little extra weight and have a nice 3" fixed blade for small chores.

You just have to experiment and see what works best for you. I don't think there is a right answer here.


Thats the best thing to pull from this "You just have to experiment and see what works best for you. I don't think there is a right answer here.", and NO I dont think large knives are a fad. I like to carry a large knife for camping, I can do alot of chores with my knife all around that it would take 2 or 3 other tools to do. And there's nothing wrong with using the tools that were designed to do those tasks. However being a knife nut, like many here....I am going to go for the knife most of the time.

When it comes to chopping most times I'll use my GB's or Wetterling, however I have done alot of branch trimming 30+ feet up and do like knives over chainsaws and axes up there(trimming around suburbs to let light through etc). I am not a big fan of Machete's just no my fav tool. To each his own.
 
Well i usually take a hatchet, a medium fixed blade, i have a couple file knives, a Coldsteel ODA, a gerber gator fixed balde an ontario spec plus, glock field knife etc, so i'll bring one of thoes, and i always carry a tactical folder around 3-4 inches long. So that comes with me too. And sometimes i'll bring a folding saw, like when i dont think that i'll find much dry wood on the ground.

But since i've been on this forum i've been reading a lot about these huge knives and been wondering why people would choose them over other tools. Makes some sense now. I'll have to try it sometime.
 
Nice picture Jimmy. Good to see that FBM with some scuffs. :thumbup:
 
But since i've been on this forum i've been reading a lot about these huge knives and been wondering why people would choose them over other tools. Makes some sense now. I'll have to try it sometime.

If you can find one, the Becker BK-9 is a nice chopper that is pretty packable and a great value. At least it used to be a great value before Ethan Becker's woes at Camillus. Prices have gone up on them since they're getting harder to find.

Nothing wrong with a machete though. I'm quite fond of my little Martindale #2 Golok. That one has chewed up some wood.

Becker BK-9 pictured...

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Guyon, thats a beautiful little knife. I can see why its one of your favorites

Thanks for the compliment. That's a sweet little hunter made by Geno Denning. 3" blade made out of ATS-34. One of the few customs I own, but a mainstay in both my hunting pack and my hiking pack. Sheath is made by Geno as well.

I'm editing to add: there's something carthartic about wailing away on some firewood or limbing a tree with a large chopping knife, and in some situations, I find the large knife to be more effective than an axe. Now that's just me. Your mileage may vary. And I'll add that, if I had a cord of wood to split in my backyard, I'd rather have a full-sized axe (or a gas-powered wood splitter :D ). But when camping or hiking, I get a lot of mileage out of the larger 8 to 10 inch blades.
 
I'd posted this over in the Busse forum, but it works here too.

We got out today to play. The HI Khuk's are the best bang for the buck for choppers. But like Guyon said, they aren't too pack friendly in their factory gear. The DOTD specials at the HI forum have some great prices on some incredible hard use knives. 15" HI AK by Sher, FBM by Busse ;)



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Like JJ says, Busse and HI get along quite well, along with the Trat machetes.

What ya gonna chop?

Changes in Latitude, changes in Bladeatude, and all that.

Rob
 
Guyon: I know you've got one of these - I don't think you've metnioned it yet though. Ontario RTAK II, under $100, chopped this frozen 9" pine in two, and was still shaving sharp afterwards:

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I have a big machete with a blade of over 20 inches, whick is great for brush and light stuff, but it is a pain in the ass to chop wood with, as it binds badly with every chop.

I don't own a safe, I use all my knives.
 
the truth is your right you could get a 12 inch mechete. it most likly is the better chopper probley better than swamp rat and busse to for chopping. and the ax is better as well and the saw . but what you don't realise is that most of these guys don't use there knives they eather sit in the gun safe with there guns that they dont use eather or there dresser and they set there and gather dust . well we better hide now ithink i stirred up the bees nest now:D :D :jerkit:

You'll find it hard to stir up the bee's nest when half the bees don't read your posts because they're to much trouble to make sense of.;)
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Once again taking HI's side: I agree the "factory" sheath... let's say the shop sheath since there is no HI factory, is not the best thing to carry, but getting a kydex sheath done is not THAT expensive.

I have a kydex sheath done right now for my 15" BAS and it will cost me 45$ + shipping.
 
I've been meditating on the challenge question "Cheap Machete or Expensive Production Custom KNIFE" for a couple of months now. I, like the host of this thread, also wondered if a $600 knife makes sense if the same work can be accomplished by a $12 machete. I started a thread in another forum about my resolution to this question. I'm not sure if linking there is allowed in this forum or not.
Actually, I believe the answer lies in a hybrid between blades of the Golok,Bolo, Khukuri and Latin Machete DNA.
So I created the Mach~Axe. Not a totally original concept but it covers some new ground.
The requirements:
- It had to be at least as EFFICIENT at chopping an 8" diameter of seasoned wood as an axe with a 4" edge and 13" total length
- It had to have an edge straight enough to use for effective butchering and impromptu food harvesting & chopping.
- The blade weight (lightness that is), length & geometry had to support the clearing of dense vines up to 1" thick
-The blade weight (lightness that is), length & geometry had to support the occasional clearing of dense grasses and thin vines and brambles
- The point of the blade had to be somewhat effective as in impromptu defense weapon
- This point has to be somewhat usable as a 'point work' tool
- The grip had to ensure a safe and efficient grip on the backswing wind-up and a good forward stop on the stroke.
-The geometry and balance had to support an efficient use of a back-of-the-blade swipe at branches to simply complete a cut or to affect a limb breaking operation or other bone breaking but not cutting.
- The blade steel metal had to support the type of abuse a general clearing,harvesting and chopping tool would be subjected to and yet be easily sharpened in the field with a stone,file and emery boards.
- Finally, it had to be available in a variety of grips, blade thicknesses and special metals to suit the needs of the individual customer as well as intended tasks. For a dessert or salt air/water, a high carbon steel might not be as long lasting as something in stainless steel
*Obviously, such a blade can't be a true all purpose blade so I eliminated the need to do many things that a good 4"-6" blade is expected to do. No filleting of small fish, no processing of birds either. Nor would you be expected to perform fine tool making etc.
So the blade that I came up with is now called the Ranger Knives Mach~Axe.
Part Golok, Part Parang, Part Latin Machete.
RKMA_1.jpg

Machaxe_2.jpg

I calculated that a blade length of 13" delivers the most efficient degree of leverage for my arm length. As shorter blade will require far more brute strength + battoning for chopping and a longer blade will require more effort to control impact vibration on thick materials, even as it it's more effective at harvesting grasses and thin vines.
I marvel at the pictures of the Busse BM series and other similarly styled and sized knives- because I've yet to witness a video of such blades efficiently dealing with thick wood any better than a folding saw.In addition, due diligence dictates that actually seeing the blade doing the work in a timed video, mitigates any questions about misrepresentation- say a felling axe is in the background- really does all the work off camera in no time flat- with the fancy battle blade jumping in for the cameo shots. or a hand full of still representing an hour or more of laborious chopping to fell an 8" diameter tree. Just dotting the 'i's here- no insinuations are intended, and I'll be the first to admit that if a sole seasoned tree and a 9" long blade with which to fell it was all I had for firewood, a two hour investment might well be worth the effort in a survival scenario..

Ranger Knives made the prototypes for me.
 
or a hand full of still representing an hour or more of laborious chopping to fell an 8" diameter tree. Just dotting the 'i's here- no insinuations are intended, and I'll be the first to admit that if a sole seasoned tree and a 9" long blade with which to fell it was all I had for firewood, a two hour investment might well be worth the effort in a survival scenario.

Nice design, and if Justin makes them part of the line, I'll likely try one. Does the tanto edge buy you any utility? From a purely aesthetic perspective, I would prefer a rounded end. From a functional perspective, seems like the rounded end might provide a stronger tip.

I will say this: if it takes a person an hour to two hours to chop down an 8" diameter tree with a 9" blade, he or she needs to work on some basic skills and some physical conditioning.
 
Thanks for the boost on my first blade ever (beginner's luck?):thumbup: :D
On the (reverse) tanto point...
1) it's got more to do with positioning the impact region along the front end of the blade than either aesthetics or utility. Albeit, a rounded 'hump' provides less with which to hurt one's self but that's the value plus of it- the straight edge that creates that reverse tanto, turns an otherwize benign front end into a potential weapon. Also, being mindful of the fact that this hybrid blade must be treated more as a multifunction tool than a specialized one, who knows when one might wish to plunge so large a blade into a large sheet of metal, plastic or other impediment in order to get a head start on creating a doorway for example!
2) There are true Golok and Bolo and Parang fron-ends a-plenty, thought we could all use a fresh look at the possibilities perhaps?
3) Finally, my inspiration for the whole blade is drawn from:
- My favorite kitchen cleaver
- The martindale Golok
- Classic Parangs and Bolos
- & Of course...the venerable Tanto/Wakizashi itself ( of which I've traded many)
I have an unfair advantage that only Justin and I can claim- and that is of being able to speak from the driver's point of view ( so to speak). The last iteration, Version 3.0 is so beautifully balanced! And you should see it move.
Used as defense weapon the point presents itself to one's opponent with unmistakable authority.
Used in the kitchen to butcher medium and large game, the backwards canted reverse tanto allows for a precisely aimed cut using the very tip of the blade-a feat that no curved front end or Bolo shape can boast of.
In clearing brambles & vines, it behaves in a fashion that reflects it's Martindale Golok heritage. Unlike the MG, however- and more in keeping with traditional Latin machetes, the nearly straight cutting edge efficiently sweeps large swathes of grasses/reeds , thorny bushes and stringy vines with aplomb! Since I have not yet had the privilege of testing it's abilities in the felling chopping and splitting tasks, I'll refrain from making claims that I can't back up. However, and again, more like an axe than like a machete, the weight forward bias combined with the general heft should make it a respectable chopper or i'll have to eat it as well as its siblings :rolleyes:
On the matter of how long it takes to chop down a live 8" diameter tree:
I've tried to chop such trees of the hardwood variety ( e.g. oak and hickory) in sub- freezing climates, with nearly frost bitten hands at high altitudes with less oxygen and with head spinning from near delirium- it's not hard to spend an hour doing it even with a small axe under such circumstances. Gimme a couple of ales in late Spring on a bright and sunny day at lower altitudes and sure- 10 minutes or less ought to do it. This underscores an important point. In pre-planning survival scenarios, shouldn't we prepare for the worst of conditions? I do :D


Nice design, and if Justin makes them part of the line, I'll likely try one. Does the tanto edge buy you any utility? From a purely aesthetic perspective, I would prefer a rounded end. From a functional perspective, seems like the rounded end might provide a stronger tip.

I will say this: if it takes a person an hour to two hours to chop down an 8" diameter tree with a 9" blade, he or she needs to work on some basic skills and some physical conditioning.
 
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