BIG DC ?

I have similar experiences...I live in South Louisiana...DCBB/BIG DC will tend to spot on the surface just sitting around if not oiled up pretty good if it is going to sit for a bit...I have a DCBB Mojo that had some spotting (black, not red) and I used fine grit sandpaper on it...you can get a near satin with DCBB/BIG DC a lot quicker than you could on CF...I have mostly old school competition finish, and those things look downright "shaggy" with patina...no rust though...

My CF curvy blade - the one from OP2W (the Silent Knight) did develop some shades of orange and black spots, although a medium grit sanding sponge got it looking factory fresh in no time flat...

Usage cures all, oil after that for less frequent users, and you have to expect some patina/oxidation on non-stainless steel regardless...some satin knives I have from Busse have developed little black spotting. They are knives to be oiled and wiped down and sharpened and re-sharpened and pick up some field wear and patina along the way. Just sand paper the rust off with as fine a grit as you can get away with to get it cleaned up and not leaving too big of gashes/pock marks from too heavy grit medium and you'll be fine. Plus the things are guaranteed for life...

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Leonardo63 said:
Like Imcq said, Infi has never claimed to be SS but it sure is damn resistant.
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It's the 8% Chromium in the Alloy Mix Combined with Jerry's Super Duper Heat Treatment that gives it the "Semi-Stainless" quality.
A "True Stainless Alloy" Blade steel must contain no less than 13% Chromium to fit the Category....However adding that much Chromium LOWERS the steels Toughness...The Magic of INFI:cool::cool::cool::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
I wanna see a BIG DC finish with some use marks.. like after a good batoning through wood.. curious how it holds up..
 
COPIUOS said:
My CF curvy blade - the one from OP2W (the Silent Knight) did develop some shades of orange and black spots, although a medium grit sanding sponge got it looking factory fresh in no time flat...
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For whatever it's worth, The CF on the Silent Knights was pretty rough, and I vaguely recall that some people were not entirely happy with it. I think Jerry heard them. I bought a CF Silent Knight and several later CF blades, and on the more recent ones, the CF looks more like BIG Satin than the CF of the Silent Knight. It also costs a bit more. (On the Silent Knight, it was an additional $50 for a 10-inch blade. On the TGULB, it's $70 for just under 8 inches.)
 
JohnTheTexican said:
For whatever it's worth, The CF on the Silent Knights was pretty rough, and I vaguely recall that some people were not entirely happy with it. I think Jerry heard them. I bought a CF Silent Knight and several later CF blades, and on the more recent ones, the CF looks more like BIG Satin than the CF of the Silent Knight. It also costs a bit more. (On the Silent Knight, it was an additional $50 for a 10-inch blade. On the TGULB, it's $70 for just under 8 inches.)
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I hear you - I was not one of the bashers of the SK...it was rough, although my experience with comp finish is from the old school comp finish blades which patina if you look at them. My main point is that with relatively little effort, you can remove any oxidation from any Busse blade regardless of the finish, CBT or not...at least that's been my experience.
 
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I think this finish will cause a hidden problem under the scales over time. If you see any hint of corrosion along the scales its most likely pestering underneath them as well. The micro dimples from the bead blast media will let moisture creep through, along the edge of the handle and just settle and slowly corrode inside the scales unnoticed. Satin will have a much tighter seal. Coated = no worries and savings now and the long run
 
Coated is fine. BIG DC is fine, too. Following your same logic, CF would be the worst for under-scale corrosion. Dang! I hadn’t thought of that til just now!
But anyway, truly, life is too short to worry about corrosion on INFI. I have that red staining in the microgrooves of my CF NFSH... almost like red rust. May be. I haven’t done anything about it. I’m sure it won’t rust away before I use it next, and beat the **** out of it. To remove the red, of course.
 
I guess you get the best of both worlds if you just strip a coated blade (mine as well wait for the coating to get beat up a bit first). You get saving, the higher priced comp finish and peace of mind with a protective coating under the scales. It's just the gamble of how the good or bad the blade finish is under the coating. Double cut does look good though!
 
dogboye said:
Coated is fine. BIG DC is fine, too. Following your same logic, CF would be the worst for under-scale corrosion. Dang! I hadn’t thought of that til just now!
But anyway, truly, life is too short to worry about corrosion on INFI. I have that red staining in the microgrooves of my CF NFSH... almost like red rust. May be. I haven’t done anything about it. I’m sure it won’t rust away before I use it next, and beat the **** out of it. To remove the red, of course.
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Busse knives carry a nearly unconditional lifetime warranty against failure of any kind. Use them (or hoard them, as may be ;) ) with complete faith, and don't worry about corrosion under the scales. It is highly unlikely to be an issue in your lifetime (and probably not your kid's either), and if for any reason it became an issue, Jerry (or his successors) will have your back. :thumbsup:
 
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