Originally posted by collecter
I have not found one single knife that can do eveything as well as tools designed specifically for their task.
For light chopping, the best tool I have ever used is the Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe - $65.00
For clearing a path thru a web of thin vegetation or branches, the best tool is a simple 18" US issue machete - $25.00
Total $90.00...there is not one single knife that will out-perform this combination.
If your reason is simply because you want a big knife, which is a valid reason, buy only what you like.
Cheers,
Collecter
I would like to point out that I use one big knife that outperforms the combination you mentioned, at least for the kind of brush that I have to clear around here. It's my 24" long hunting Bowie.
For succulent plants, like common pokeberry, smartweed, black nightshade, musk thistle, etc., the ligher machette is indeed better, since you won't get tired from swinging, and more importantly, trying to slow down, the bigger Bowie.
However, when I'm actually clearing "brush", like soon when we start moving deer stands and need to open firing lanes, I will be encountering more numerous tougher plants. In later fall especially, wild blackberry, snakeroot, leafy spurge, iron weed, and 1/2"-3/4" diameter hardwood saplings, etc., can be especially tough. The greater weight of the Bowie carries it thru big patches of the stuff much better. And, the extra 6 inches of blade generate even more speed than an 18" machette, and give more reach to take out a bigger swath with every swing. (and more distance from thorns)
This Bowie also chops serious wood as well as any hatchet, as I found when I needed to remove a 4" diameter limb from a dead (seasoned) oak tree, and a 10" diameter limb from a pecan tree, and had my knife with me. (Umm... I hate to point this out on a forum devoted to edged tools, but axes aren't really the best choice for serious wood cutting either. That's why we own 6 or 7 chainsaws. If we have some REALLY serious wood to cut, we borrow my great uncle's chainsaw with the 4 1/2 foot long bar, so we can reach the center of big trees.) I've experimented with the edge geometry of hatchets and double bitted axes, and found that if I make the edge thin enough to really penetrate the wood, it will bind and be hard to pull out again with every swing. So, I sharpen them with a more obtuse, less efficient edge, so they don't penetrate deep enough to bind. In contrast, the Bowie can get by with a much more efficient and thinner edge. This is because it bears against the wood across a much *longer* surface, which keeps it from penetrating too deep to bind. Thus, each swing removes a chip that is shallower, but longer, and actually removes more wood. If I want a stouter edge to do some rough work, well then I simply turn the knife over in my hand and use the 13" long sharpened false edge on the spine. It is ground at a steeper angle, with edge geometry more like an ax, and I actually do use it almost as often as the main edge. My knife is slower than a machette, but still quicker than a good sized hatchet, and that extra speed comes in very handy when cutting the unsupported ends of long hardwood limbs that are in my firing lane. And, again, the Small Forest Ax is only 19" long. It's often surprising how much an extra 5" or so of reach can help.
I concede that my knife certainly wasn't as cheap as the combo you proposed, but it does have the advantages of both tools combined into one easy to carry package.