Apologies in advance if the following is unclear: I'm a somewhat anal geek who plays with process control for a living. Explaining things to real people is something i struggle with. However, here are a couple of tips for setting up furnace/kiln controllers that I've picked up, mostly the hard way.
Use a 2-second cycle time if you are on an SSR output. If you are on a relay output, use the shortest output cycle time you can get away with. This will help to minimize any sawtooth variation either side of setpoint.
If you only have one set of PID terms available, and you are going to be using the same furnace for both Austenitizing and tempering, do your tuning at tempering temperature. Powerful elements and low temperatures are a recipe for overshoot. A few degrees of overshoot at tempering temperature will have a much bigger detrimental effect on the finished blade than the same overshoot at Austenitizing temperature, so it's more important to get it right at tempering temperature.
The slower temperature changes at the higher temperatures will actually mean that you'll get much less overshoot at Austenitizing when correctly tuned for tempering, than the overshoot you'd get at tempering if correctly tuned for Austenitizing.
Better still, tune at Austenitizing temperature, note the PID terms, then tune at tempering temperature, note the PID terms. Then when you use the kiln/furnace/oven, enter the correct PID settings for the job in hand.
For my HT furnaces, I tend to use an AutomationDirect Solo controller. This will tune for 4 different sets of PID terms at different temperatures and automatically use the PID terms for the closest tuning temperature to the setpoint. Other than this feature, it seems to have similar functionality to the Auber ramp/soak controllers mentioned in previous posts.
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...ers/1-z-16_DIN_Size_(SL4848_Series)/SL4848-VR
Before you tune your control loop, take the temperature up to near-maximum and leave it there for a few minutes. Then switch off and leave it to cool overnight. This gets a nice dark oxide layer on the thermocouple and ensures it responds as fast as it can to radiant heat. If you tune with a shiny new thermocouple, it will reflect some of the radiant heat from the elements, rather than absorbing it, and affect the response rate.
Check or change your thermocouple regularly. Especially if you are using one of the ubiquitous K type. They do suffer from drift when used above about 1000 degC (1832 degF). I tend to use type N instead. Type N was developed to overcome, or at least dramatically reduce, the high-temperature drift. With many controllers, you are likely to be stuck with the type K input.
If you have the option, always ramp and soak for tempering. Use a slow ramp to overcome the radiant heating issue; As a general recommendation, I'd suggest an hour from room temperature to tempering for Carbon steels.
Regards
Tim