BIG Lock Engagement Difference between Slow-Roll and Flicking Open. What's the cause?

[Chronovore]

There is no lock stick, rock, or play.

When you check for lock rock, how much force do you apply? Also, are you checking from both points of lock-up?

If you have a firm grip on the handle and a firm pinch on the spine, and you try to rock it, I'm very curious as to whether the point of lock-up drifts.

As far as slow versus fast, lots of modern folders (especially those running on bearings) are meant to be snapped or flicked open fast. Of course, there is an invisible assumption of tolerances there. For instance, if you are winding up and putting a bunch of wrist into it, that could be questionable. Ideally, it wouldn't be. I'm just saying it could be. I feel like the proper use of a good modern folder (the kind on bearings anyway) is snapping or flicking it open with just the thumb on the stud, just the finger on the flipper tab, etc.

The theory about stop-pin bounce sounds plausible but I've had and tinkered with a large number of fast-opening modern folders and I don't ever recall seeing this. I mean, it's possible that I've never noticed it, and I almost never slow-roll something that I can flick. Still, I just tested like ten random knives ranging from $25 to $500 and none of them did this.

 

[Initialconditions]

When you check for lock rock, how much force do you apply? Also, are you checking from both points of lock-up?

If you have a firm grip on the handle and a firm pinch on the spine, and you try to rock it, I'm very curious as to whether the point of lock-up drifts.

As far as slow versus fast, lots of modern folders (especially those running on bearings) are meant to be snapped or flicked open fast. Of course, there is an invisible assumption of tolerances there. For instance, if you are winding up and putting a bunch of wrist into it, that could be questionable. Ideally, it wouldn't be. I'm just saying it could be. I feel like the proper use of a good modern folder (the kind on bearings anyway) is snapping or flicking it open with just the thumb on the stud, just the finger on the flipper tab, etc.

The theory about stop-pin bounce sounds plausible but I've had and tinkered with a large number of fast-opening modern folders and I don't ever recall seeing this. I mean, it's possible that I've never noticed it, and I almost never slow-roll something that I can flick. Still, I just tested like ten random knives ranging from $25 to $500 and none of them did this.

Not doing anything crazy like hyper wrist elbow ninja flicks... Just the thumb. I am not noticing drift YET, but I remain suspect of this lockup. I don't think it's a safety issue at all, but I do think this knife will be prone to getting to 100% lock engagement prematurely... Potentially hyper fast. This is based on the locks willingness to move in either direction (less or more engagement), with just a very gently push of the thumb. Frankly, I stopped testing how far the lock would engage because it seemed far to easy to push towards 100%. I've owned many TI framelocks, and understand they're willingness to further engage when bearing down a bit on the lock during cutting, but this amount of movement with very little force is unsettling. Again, not from a safety issue, but from a hardiness perspective. A framelock shouldn't get to 100% until WELL into it's lifetime in my opinion and expectation.

 

[Sharp & Fiery]

Not doing anything crazy like hyper wrist elbow ninja flicks... Just the thumb. I am not noticing drift YET, but I remain suspect of this lockup. I don't think it's a safety issue at all, but I do think this knife will be prone to getting to 100% lock engagement prematurely... Potentially hyper fast. This is based on the locks willingness to move in either direction (less or more engagement), with just a very gently push of the thumb. Frankly, I stopped testing how far the lock would engage because it seemed far to easy to push towards 100%. I've owned many TI framelocks, and understand they're willingness to further engage when bearing down a bit on the lock during cutting, but this amount of movement with very little force is unsettling. Again, not from a safety issue, but from a hardiness perspective. A framelock shouldn't get to 100% until WELL into it's lifetime in my opinion and expectation.

Pivot tension can also affect lockup. Obviously, as you probably know, the pivot should be snugged up. Just something else to look into.

If the pivot is loose, it will allow the lockup to be later.

Also, the lockface on the tang of the blade could also be cut at the wrong angle, causing ease of pushing the lockbar to 100%

 

[Initialconditions]

Pivot tension can also affect lockup. Obviously, as you probably know, the pivot should be snugged up. Just something else to look into.

If the pivot is loose, it will allow the lockup to be later.

Also, the lockface on the tang of the blade could also be cut at the wrong angle, causing ease of pushing the lockbar to 100%

Yes, my suspicion has been, and remains, that the lock geometry is incorrect. Good note on the pivot tension, always worth check that. I did take down, clean, and reassemble the knife, hoping to tune out the issue, but no change.

 

[steelhead seeker]

As long as both ways of opening lock it securely its fine. I've seen this on a bunch of knives but it's usually opposite, flick gets more engagement of the lock than slowly opening it. The only time I think its an issue is like with my southern grind spider monkey. If I open it super slow it only gets like 5% engagement of the lock and I can force it shut by just pushing on the back of the blade with my thumb. If I forcefully push it open with my thumb it gets enough engagement to not be an issue so that's just what I do. If I had bought it I probably would have sent it back but it was a gift from my wife so I'll keep it forever. Your getting 50% lock up at a minimum, it's fine.

Edit: if your worried about to much lock up btw, don't Chris Reeve knives lock up like ridiculously close to 100%? And I'm pretty sure he knows what he's doing. Knife people get to picky with the small stuff. The knife will not be ruined in your life time because of the lockup. And let's be honest, if your on this website you probably won't even own that knife in a couple years because you will have sold it to further fuel your addiction to other knives.