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Bird's Eye Maple scales, Stabilized (sorta), for a special someone

Very nice job on those! Are the other set spalted maple? That's my absolute favorite wood for scale material. I attempted to make 1911 grips out of it a few years ago...before I knew about stabilizing. That didn't end well at all!
 
mrn8 said:
Very nice job on those! Are the other set spalted maple? That's my absolute favorite wood for scale material. I attempted to make 1911 grips out of it a few years ago...before I knew about stabilizing. That didn't end well at all!
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No that's Zebrawood, I gotta fix those. Those were for somebody but i worked em' too hard.
 
crimsonfalcon07 said:
Heh, the 5th was my birthday. But I don't know you that well yet, and I make my own scales to boot. Grats, that's a nice piece of maple. Are you going to die it or anything?
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Naw their done, stain wouldn't penetrate correctly now anyway with that wood hardener in there. You gotta get good penetration.
 
Nsvens89 said:
Thas what she said ;)

All kidding aside those are some seriously gorgeous scales man! Superb!
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It's the wood man, it's all in the wood. A brother could execute his craft on a crappy piece of wood and it would look OK. On the other hand a guy who really didn't have all the skills but had a kick ass piece of wood could do pretty darn good. The wood is important.
 
I have a question for you Oregon. I want to make some wood scales for my Becker, not sure which one yet. I know that I would trace the outline of the stock scales onto the wood and cut them out a little larger and get all the mounting holes lined up and such. But when it comes time to shape them down to size I want to get them exactly the same size as the tang, but I don't want to sand on the metal. Mainly b/c I don't really want to strip the coating off yet.
Edit: that posted before I was done rambling. Anyway I don't know if this makes any sense I was just looking for some pointers I guess.
 
texas4x4hoe said:
I have a question for you Oregon. I want to make some wood scales for my Becker, not sure which one yet. I know that I would trace the outline of the stock scales onto the wood and cut them out a little larger and get all the mounting holes lined up and such. But when it comes time to shape them down to size I want to get them exactly the same size as the tang, but I don't want to sand on the metal. Mainly b/c I don't really want to strip the coating off yet.
Edit: that posted before I was done rambling. Anyway I don't know if this makes any sense I was just looking for some pointers I guess.
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Are you meaning you want them to sit flat on the tang? If so then I just start sanding the wood on a perfectly flat surface from 120 grit all the way to 400 grit.
 
Put masking tape over finish on the outside perimeter, when the sand paper starts eating up the tape, stop there. Just make sure you've gotten down to the grit you want.
 
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Cool that was one thought I had. Kinda wanted to hear it from someone that's done it befor though. Thanks for the info!
 
Any other question you may have, feel free to ask. There's a bunch of us who've done these things.
 
Those look OUTSTANDING ! I have been wanting to go to Harbor Freight & pick up a brake bleeder to use for wood stabilization. Someone did a video or posted a video about it. Works well. You can see the bubbles of air coming out of the wood when he puts a vacuum on the jar that they are in w/sealer. Have not got around to it. All my money's been going to SMKW lately !!!
 
whereismyclock said:
I was going to make a sarcastic comment but MAN fal'er. You're a friggin artist.
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It's the wood man, all the rest is just copying the contours and sizing of KaBar grivory. I probably spent 10 hours making that, just sandpaper after I used the press, lots of sanding. That's why I don't sell them, much, folks don't wanna pay $10 dollars an hour for 10 hours of work. So, I give them away.
 
TwinStick said:
Those look OUTSTANDING ! I have been wanting to go to Harbor Freight & pick up a brake bleeder to use for wood stabilization. Someone did a video or posted a video about it. Works well. You can see the bubbles of air coming out of the wood when he puts a vacuum on the jar that they are in w/sealer. Have not got around to it. All my money's been going to SMKW lately !!!
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If you end up doing this, could you put up a how to and gimme a link to it. I have to see it to do it.
 
How did you cut the hex holes? Any time I attempt that i butcher them. Do you have any tricks that you would be willing to share?
 
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