BJ proto V. CG BJ

J

jtsharp

Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Messages
323
Hello everyone,

I dont post much but read almost all the posts in the Busse forums and have been a Busse fan for some time now. I have even made the trip to Knob Creek and attended the secrete meeting!
I have a BJ on the way that is a proto version (at least I think, it has the fuller ground into the blade) and I am curious as to what details or specs are different on the ones currently in production. I have searched the web and have not found anything.

If this has already been discussed then can some one please give me the link to the thread in which it was discussed.

Thanks,

JT
 
Don't have a link to the specs thread, but the Proto BJ's were ground very thick at the edge.

The overall thickness it the same (if I remember correctly), but it is going to be suitable for very heavy use and abuse based on teh meat above the edge!
 
do you think there is any extra value to the knife because it is a proto? Or maybe there were too many made?
 
jtsharp said:
do you think there is any extra value to the knife because it is a proto? Or maybe there were too many made?
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Well, did you pay extra for it? ;)

I think it will hold it's value as well as most Busse do these days. The bubble in prices is over, and resale appreciation is not as great as it was some years ago. Enjoy your new knife. :thumbup:
 
jtsharp said:
do you think there is any extra value to the knife because it is a proto? Or maybe there were too many made?
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I don't plan on using my Proto, but as far as more valuable, my LE was exactly $35 more and my CG exactly $130 cheaper than the Proto. The Proto is going in the safe with the LE, because while it's a beautiful satin finished blade, its edge is too thick for a user IMO. My CG should be done soon. It needs to be because I'm dying for a BOSS Jack user. :)
 
Mine is Satin, No Fuller, Red and Black G-10 from the Ganzaa. It does say Proto on it. :)

ETA the original Protos with the fuller, double cut with black canvas and your choice of the 3 different choils just didn't do it for me.
 
Thanks for all the comments. I plan to use the BJ proto, after I strip it. I am a sucker for those infi dimples. Do you think the edge is too thick for actual use? I usually thin the edges on all my Busse knives anyhow.

JT
 
It is not too thin for "actual Use" but it is not a 10 degree per side razor either.

When you thin out the edge it will make it a better slicer. For max abuse, the stock edge is a beast.

One issue is the bevel on the edge, if you thin it out, will come up higher than you are used to seeing on knife.

Unless you have a belt sander, or do convex by hand and have some time to take more of the steel off higher up on the primary grind.

I don't really think the "proto" designation will make the value jump. At least not any time in the foreseeable future.
 
I don't abuse my knives too much. I realy like the fuller in the proto. That's something only a few busse knives have. I almost bought one at knob creek last fall. I liked it then too but got two SODs. The resale isn't terribly important to me but I didn't wanna strip and convex a knife that may soon be some kind of gold mine. I got it in a trade but have seen them sell for a little more than the production knife.

So is the edge and lack of fuller the biggest change.
 
There is a different pattern of machining on the scales. It covers the whole scale on the production run not just the middle third like the proto.
 
It should be here tomorrow. I am
Very excited about it. Mine has red and black g10 and the full size choil. It's gonna ride in a spec ops sheath until I can get some kydex made. It seems to be very similar to the old satin jack, which I have admired since my first busse exposure.

Thanks for all the info folks. There are not many YouTube vids out there yet.
 
jtsharp said:
Thanks for all the comments. I plan to use the BJ proto, after I strip it. I am a sucker for those infi dimples. Do you think the edge is too thick for actual use? I usually thin the edges on all my Busse knives anyhow.

JT
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:confused: The BJ Proto that I had sported the DCBB finish. Nothing to strip, and no dimples. Is your Proto coated?
 
resinguy said:
:confused: The BJ Proto that I had sported the DCBB finish. Nothing to strip, and no dimples. Is your Proto coated?
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I think he's talking about some that were sold at Knob Creek that were coated. I've seen black crinkle with tequila sunrise scales on the exchange.
 
Yeah it has the black crinkle coat but it does not say proto on it. It does say busse across the ricaso though. I wish I had this knife back in '05 in the sand box. It would have Been easier than lugging the ratweiler around.
 
This is the same edge that I put on all of my busse's, a blend of trying to get better performance and keeping them tough enough to handle what abuse basic chopping and batoning might cause them. It's an 18 degree relief bevel with a 24 degree main bevel (both per side, so 36 included and 48 included). On most busse's you'll end up with a really wide/tall relief bevel because you have to remove so much metal. There are a few models that you can get away with a single bevel like the BAD, CABS, or cultellus. Generally the smallest busse's that would be difficult to pry with/baton with due to their small size are the ones that end up with the thinnest edge out of the factory. The bigger and longer the knife the thicker the stock edge is going to be on the cg version.

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Just got the bj out of the box. What a blade! The edge is very thick and I will thin it out. Even though it has that kind of angle it's still sharp, just not as sharp as I will get it. I will probably strip it too. I just don't realy dig the coatings.

It's a heavier knife than I thought it would be. It's very well balanced and feels very solid in the hand.
 
jtsharp said:
Just got the bj out of the box. What a blade! ....
It's a heavier knife than I thought it would be. It's very well balanced and feels very solid in the hand.
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Congrats!
Got something else in or near the 6" category to compare it to? Just curious.
 
another option is to strip a coated bladed. They are cheaper if bought directly from busse and if you leave the coating on under the handles, you'll have the added protection of rustproofing the area you can't get at with sand paper.

Or you can do a 'users strip' like this one, where you just strip the blade and spine on the blade since those are the area's that will get thrashed by batons and wood/media. If I had some paint stripper/the money to buy some I'd probably strip my TTKZ in the same manner.

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