Bk2 grind mark removed picture request

L

Lethal289

Joined
Apr 10, 2013
Messages
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I'm really interested in removing the grind marks on the blade of my bk2. I've been searching, but can't really come across many pictures of a bk2 without the sharp transition to the blade. I really want it to look like its on the same plain. I hope I'm explaining this right. Anybody mod their bk2 this way? Want to share some pictures and maybe how you went about doing it? Thanks.
 
Are you talking about the transition between bevels? Almost like having a full flat grind or convex? This is what i did to mine. (though it happened from me removing the coating with a belt sander not chemical stripper)

 
Thanks guys. That's is exactly the look I'm after. Sorry I'm not up on the terminology. I guess I really like a full flat grind. Although, I want to save the logos. Is a belt sander the way to do it? I would think it could hurt the temper.

Lets keep the pics coming.
 
No problem, and welcome! Beckers are great fun to mod! If you go slow and keep dipping it in cool water you are fine. Just keep feeling the blade and don't let it get above warm. If you are patient you will be safe.
 
Yeah, belt sanders are the key...I don't think you're gonna be able to save the logos though. My pics above are kinda old since after I took them I went and reground the blade again so only the "BAR" part of Ka-Bar is still there.
 
grinding that much hardened steel is an enormous amount of work.
oughta keep you out of trouble for awhile. :D
Don't worry about the temper way up there, just be careful near the edge.

-Daizee
 
Well, I may Try a file and some sand paper. I got her stripped today, and filed the spine smooth.
 
You could just knock the shoulder off the grind (the hard line where the grind starts) and it would give the blade a smooth transition like Nsvens89's BK2. You can sand it down enough to where it would flow smoothly and there would be no noticeable transition but you would preserve the logo.
 
Lethal289 said:
CamH, what did you use to force your patina? I'm really liking the look.
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Gun blue which I did in about 3 coats and left on for about 30 mins at a time unlike 30 seconds or whatever the package said. It originally had quite a dark even colour to it originally (like the area closest to the handle) but it got that blotchy look from a little battoning. If you plan to use your knife around food I wouldn't recommend the gun blue though.
 
IMG_3162.jpg


Well i sanded the line off, but i guess i didn't etch the logo deep enough. Im thinking ill take it the rest of the way off. Gonna sleep on it and see. I used a fine file, then some 80 grit sand paper. The paper is where i got a little carried away. After that, i took it all the way to 400 grit. The knife never got more then warm to the touch. i also filed the spine, and got rid of the grind marks. I think i am going to round the spine too. Im thinking if i force a patina, i shouldn't have to take it any further then 400? Anybody know for sure? Does it make sense to go up to 1000 or more?

IMG_3156.jpg
 
I took mine all the way down to 2500, it was shiny and purdy. Then I patina-ed the crap out of it with hot apple cider vinegar. If you are goin to force a patina, then I would just go down to 1000. That way you get all the scuffs out, and your patina is nice and even. Just my opinion.
 
NikkiR said:
I took mine all the way down to 2500, it was shiny and purdy. Then I patina-ed the crap out of it with hot apple cider vinegar. If you are goin to force a patina, then I would just go down to 1000. That way you get all the scuffs out, and your patina is nice and even. Just my opinion.
Click to expand...

I'd agree with that - take it to 800 or 1000 to get it nice and smooth, but don't take it all the way to polished if you're going to force a patina.
Nice work, by the way! I like FFG, too, but don't think I can do that to my 7.
 
Hew want chiny? I gib you chiny:








Please note: these photos are for reference only. I DO NOT POLISH KNIVES FOR CUSTOMERS! Too much time and elbow grease involved to make it worthwhile.
 
Hey k9, great pics. How long did it take to pull that off? What grit did you go up to before polishing? I assume at that point they pretty much just sit in a drawer.
 
Literally hours and hours. It was one of those "let's see if I can do it" moments. Luckily I don't have those too often! :D

Up thru 1000 before switching to a buffing wheel and compound. As most of you know, that factory coating is more than just something to protect the steel from the weather. It also serves to hide a myriad of sins from manufacturing. Like looking in a mirror while you're nekid, sometimes "bare" needs a lot of work to be presentable! :D

Nope. Two out of the above were sold, and I can't speak for the way the new owners use them, but there should be no issues that you wouldn't have with any other shiny carbon steel knife. Just need to keep it lubricated with something like mineral oil or it will rust.
 
I really should have started with a 400 grit to get the tooling marks out. But I started with 1000, this pic is horrible, and it was a lot more shiny than it looks, oh well.
IMG_1533_zps8a3d7682.jpg
 
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