Hypothetically speaking, if a person had been reading a bunch of westerns lately, liked old school stuff, and was getting curious about black powder revolvers, what would be a good, fairly inexpensive way of getting started with a kit? What should such a person look for or stay away from? Do the usual handgun laws apply for such things?
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Black powder revolvers
- Thread starter Foilist
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alot of kits have revolvers with brass frames...they loosen up and rattle look for one with a solid steel construction, also if you never have use black powder arms before prepare for a new addiciton and for something that will require some study..I have been spoiled by the simplicity of conventional arms
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according to the federal goverment the black powder type pistols and rifles are not controlled like self contained bullet firing firearms
IE: no background check or licenseing required.
yeah the brass case ones are fine to try but you will need to get a better one if you are going to stick with it.
IE: no background check or licenseing required.
yeah the brass case ones are fine to try but you will need to get a better one if you are going to stick with it.
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It might be different in other states but in NY you can own a black powder pistol with out a lic. however if you have black powder, caps, and balls in your home than you require a pistol lic.
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Cabela's (well at least the Dundee store, but I would assume the same sale online and at other stores) has a confederate replica on sale right now for somewhere around $180. I'm looking into getting a BP revolver as well, I've always been partial to the LeMat, but the only ones I've seen are quite expensive.
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I used to be really into cap and ball revolvers, and they are fun, if you also enjoy the cleaning that goes with them!
In my experience, solid frame revolvers like the Remington 1858 replicas, are more accurate than the open frame Colt replicas, and have much better sights.
Probably the best black powder revolver is the Ruger Old Army. Not exactly a replica period looking gun though, more of a modern target version of the Remington 1858.
It varies from state to state, so check your own state laws as well. They are not usually under the same purchase restrictions as modern guns, but once loaded are under pretty much the same restrictions as other guns. i.e. If you can't legally cary a modern gun in you state, then you can't carry a black powder one either.
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NY is a weird state. I am not always sure about the so socialist east , but out here in the west, including CA, no requirements are in place for licensing or registration of black powder firearms.
my suggestion to you is to get a single shot black powder firearm- ANY single shot cap, pistol or rifle. I'd recommend a .40 caliber cap and ball rifle, but whatever.
I know people don't like the brass frames, and certainly look for a steel frame, but more than anything just get one. Replace the frame later if you can't find a steel one now- you can get each part of a navy revolver individually at a show or rendevous, anyhow.
Learn to load, shoot, and clean on the single shot first, until you have all the variations and drills (like misfire, repriming, and bullet pulling) down.
, but out here in the west, including CA, no requirements are in place for licensing or registration of black powder firearms.my suggestion to you is to get a single shot black powder firearm- ANY single shot cap, pistol or rifle. I'd recommend a .40 caliber cap and ball rifle, but whatever.
I know people don't like the brass frames, and certainly look for a steel frame, but more than anything just get one. Replace the frame later if you can't find a steel one now- you can get each part of a navy revolver individually at a show or rendevous, anyhow.
Learn to load, shoot, and clean on the single shot first, until you have all the variations and drills (like misfire, repriming, and bullet pulling) down.
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My only current BP revolver is a Stainless Ruger Old Army from about the time they started making it in stainless. It's as accurate as many of my cartridge-firing revolvers have been but expensive and heavy for the "punch." I won't debate "stopping power," "energy levels" or any of that but will just say that, if I had to carry that much steel on a regular basis, it would be a big bore cartridge gun. There is little that can surpass the thrill of lobbing lead spheres through a cloud of stinky, choking smoke though.
What I am getting at is that I percieve the .36 caliber to be the berries for such interests. A cap-n-ball .44 (.45 in the case of the Ruger) is NOT something I would put much faith in for "bear protection," so, ruling out the whole idea of using it for such things, I would personally focus on something that would give me less weight, more shots per pound of lead/powder and something that would put a smaller hole in small game. As for defense against bipedal aggressors, at least one successful early gun-fighter employed the lowly .36 to very good effect - something to read up on.
Paying close attention to bore and groove diameter, but more importantly chamber diameter, one can also mate certain bagged shot sizes to some of the smaller caliber revolvers. Dixie Gun Works used to sell a couple copies of lesser known revolvers which were designed and made quite well in lighter-weight class of revolver. I don't mean the .32 "vest" revolvers either. I am talking about something that is still "big" for what it fires by cartridge gun standards today.
Don't forget to check state and local laws! While the federal government does not lump these in with cartridge guns, many states and municipalities do. Also don't forget, there are some extra things to consider regarding safety with this type of arm and Lyman covers most of what you need to know in one of their manuals. Also look for anything written by Sam Fadala.
It's addictive but the educational quest it leads you on is very gratifying and can keep you busy for several years. If you're going to use the Internet to research this subject, don't forget to use it to look up the many, many old texts written on the subject. Most can probably be had pretty cheap through one of the many used-book resources on the Internet. I have found that my County Library even has some good books on the subject.
One thing to keep in mind when experimenting - look for percussion caps that won't split and turn into shrapnel when fired. While this is considered by many a "plus" on a rifle, it has caused me much grief in binding the cylinder. I would prefer to have to wiggle spent caps off the nipples with a pair of needle-nose pliers after firing a cylinder-full than taking the gun apart between shots. Dixie Gunworks used to sell a "house-brand" Italian cap that was perfect but the discontinued them many years ago. Had I seen that one coming, I would have put back about ten thousand for myself.
What I am getting at is that I percieve the .36 caliber to be the berries for such interests. A cap-n-ball .44 (.45 in the case of the Ruger) is NOT something I would put much faith in for "bear protection," so, ruling out the whole idea of using it for such things, I would personally focus on something that would give me less weight, more shots per pound of lead/powder and something that would put a smaller hole in small game. As for defense against bipedal aggressors, at least one successful early gun-fighter employed the lowly .36 to very good effect - something to read up on.
Paying close attention to bore and groove diameter, but more importantly chamber diameter, one can also mate certain bagged shot sizes to some of the smaller caliber revolvers. Dixie Gun Works used to sell a couple copies of lesser known revolvers which were designed and made quite well in lighter-weight class of revolver. I don't mean the .32 "vest" revolvers either. I am talking about something that is still "big" for what it fires by cartridge gun standards today.
Don't forget to check state and local laws! While the federal government does not lump these in with cartridge guns, many states and municipalities do. Also don't forget, there are some extra things to consider regarding safety with this type of arm and Lyman covers most of what you need to know in one of their manuals. Also look for anything written by Sam Fadala.
It's addictive but the educational quest it leads you on is very gratifying and can keep you busy for several years. If you're going to use the Internet to research this subject, don't forget to use it to look up the many, many old texts written on the subject. Most can probably be had pretty cheap through one of the many used-book resources on the Internet. I have found that my County Library even has some good books on the subject.
One thing to keep in mind when experimenting - look for percussion caps that won't split and turn into shrapnel when fired. While this is considered by many a "plus" on a rifle, it has caused me much grief in binding the cylinder. I would prefer to have to wiggle spent caps off the nipples with a pair of needle-nose pliers after firing a cylinder-full than taking the gun apart between shots. Dixie Gunworks used to sell a "house-brand" Italian cap that was perfect but the discontinued them many years ago. Had I seen that one coming, I would have put back about ten thousand for myself.
Thanks for the good info. I would certainly like it to be a shooter for fun, but I'm mostly interested in the history and old school gadget appeal. I'm particularly interested in the Colt Dragoon replicas at the moment. I wonder how hard it would be for a novice to make one from a kit, and how decent it would be when complete?
Like JeffH, I have the stainless Ruger Old Army. Extremely strong and accurate. However, because it is not an authentic reproduction, CA considers it a "modern firearm" and makes you do the same paperwork as for cartridge revolvers. Not sure how CT would treat any BP revolver.
If you really think you're going to get seriously into it, the Ruger is worth the higher price, especially if you can find a good used one. To try BP on the cheap, there are kits available but most of the kits I have seen are for single shot pistols.
Get an experienced BP shooter to give you some pointers. You especially want to know what to do if a charge fails to ignite and you have to "pull the load".
Have fun!
DancesWithKnives
If you really think you're going to get seriously into it, the Ruger is worth the higher price, especially if you can find a good used one. To try BP on the cheap, there are kits available but most of the kits I have seen are for single shot pistols.
Get an experienced BP shooter to give you some pointers. You especially want to know what to do if a charge fails to ignite and you have to "pull the load".
Have fun!
DancesWithKnives
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I know what to do with my hunting muzzleloader, but its a simple matter of unscrewing the breech plug. I never even thought about this problem with a BP revolver. As someone who might pick one up after the holidays, whats the correct steps?
I would carefully remove the cylinder and soak it in water overnight, after removing the percussion cap(s). I'd then attach one of the screws made for pulling loads to the end of a ramrod, screw it into the lead ball/mini ball and gently ease it out. Deactivating the powder with water is a good safety step.
There may be other ways of doing it but this is what I was taught.
DancesWithKnives
There may be other ways of doing it but this is what I was taught.
DancesWithKnives
Hi,
I've been shooting BP since the mid 70's. And pistols are fun for targets and small game. I've only got a Pietta '58 Remington left for revolvers though. Just got tired of cleaning the the things. The Piettas' are noted for their accuracy.
To repair a misfire with the "Proper PC method":
1. Wait for a few minutes!! A hang fire will ruin your day, and maybe life, (PC or not do this no matter what!).
2. Remove all caps from unfired cylinders.
3. Disassemble cylinder from frame. Place cylinder in bucket of water to neutralize powder charge.
4. Use a short rod with a ball-screw to pull ball. Clean, lube, reassemble, load and shoot.
The way I like to do it is to "boost" the charge by removing the nipple from the offending cylinder. And then dribbling a few grains of fresh powder in. I replace the nipple and cap and fire it. This works 90% of the time for me. Otherwise I use a "silent ball discharger" available from places that sell BP stuff.
I will mention one other safety concern with cap & ball revolvers, Chain-fires. This is when flames/sparks from the cylinder you just fired set off one or more of the rest of them. This is not only bad for your pistol, but not good for you either. This was always a danger back in the day. To avoid this happening to you, place a felt over -powder wad over each charge before you seat the ball. Or, as I do, place grease over the top of the ball after loading.
Cap & Ball revolvers are a hoot. And can open up a whole new shooting world for you. Get one!
dalee
I've been shooting BP since the mid 70's. And pistols are fun for targets and small game. I've only got a Pietta '58 Remington left for revolvers though. Just got tired of cleaning the the things. The Piettas' are noted for their accuracy.
To repair a misfire with the "Proper PC method":
1. Wait for a few minutes!! A hang fire will ruin your day, and maybe life, (PC or not do this no matter what!).
2. Remove all caps from unfired cylinders.
3. Disassemble cylinder from frame. Place cylinder in bucket of water to neutralize powder charge.
4. Use a short rod with a ball-screw to pull ball. Clean, lube, reassemble, load and shoot.
The way I like to do it is to "boost" the charge by removing the nipple from the offending cylinder. And then dribbling a few grains of fresh powder in. I replace the nipple and cap and fire it. This works 90% of the time for me. Otherwise I use a "silent ball discharger" available from places that sell BP stuff.
I will mention one other safety concern with cap & ball revolvers, Chain-fires. This is when flames/sparks from the cylinder you just fired set off one or more of the rest of them. This is not only bad for your pistol, but not good for you either. This was always a danger back in the day. To avoid this happening to you, place a felt over -powder wad over each charge before you seat the ball. Or, as I do, place grease over the top of the ball after loading.
Cap & Ball revolvers are a hoot. And can open up a whole new shooting world for you. Get one!
dalee
I have an Uberti 1860 Army .44 cap & ball revolver. In my opinion it's the most beautiful pistol ever made. It points perfectly and is very accurate out to 25 yards or so. The fit and finish on the Uberti is perfect. I'm planning to buy another one to have a matched pair. Midway down the page on the right, the one with the fluted cylinder: http://www.uberti.com/firearms/army_navy_and_pocket_navy.php
I'll bet an hour of soaking would be plenty but my mentor was extremely overcautious.
Chain/string fire: Glad dalee100 mentioned this. I've always bought really top quality lead balls. They are large and consistent enough that the cylinder shaves off a small, unbroken ring of lead when they are seated. When I see a consistent lead ring produced during seating, I figure I have a good seal and don't worry too much about a chain fire incident. I also use the felt wads over the powder pretty regularly but am not as fond of post-loading greasing. It's very traditional and reliable but I just never got into doing it.
DancesWithKnives
Chain/string fire: Glad dalee100 mentioned this. I've always bought really top quality lead balls. They are large and consistent enough that the cylinder shaves off a small, unbroken ring of lead when they are seated. When I see a consistent lead ring produced during seating, I figure I have a good seal and don't worry too much about a chain fire incident. I also use the felt wads over the powder pretty regularly but am not as fond of post-loading greasing. It's very traditional and reliable but I just never got into doing it.
DancesWithKnives