Black Walnut

[Walt2]

Any one here have any experience with Black Walnut? I put a set of scales on a knife today that is out of this wood and am wondering if anyone has experimented with the best way to seal it. Seems to be pretty hard.

 

[Bruce Bump]

I make gun grips with black walnut and have come to really apprecate its beauty. It does need to be sealed before the putting the finish on. I use WaterLox to seal it and Tru-Oil for the 6-10 coats. Sand between coats with 600-1000 grit. Thin the Tru-Oil by 1/3 with mineral spirits. It takes 5-10 days because of complete drying time between coats.

 

[howiesatwork]

I tale it to 320 grit or higher, put a coat of oil finish on, let it sit a few minutes, then wipe off the excess. This will make the grain appear better.
Let it dry for a few days.
Put a finish on it with a Polyurethane oil based wiping varnish, a spray of acrylic lacquer, or even a superglue finish...
Bruce's finishing ideas are very sound.

 

[Walt2]

Thanks for the replies and info. Bruce, may I ask where you are able to get this wood from. I found these on ebay.

 

[Bruce Bump]

Thanks for the replies and info. Bruce, may I ask where you are able to get this wood from. I found these on ebay.

There is allot of Black walnut locally. I have about 60 pounds of it on hand. You shouldnt even have to buy it if you ask around.

 

[jhiggins]

I am going to try the Tru-Oil thing, Bruce. I have been doing a similar approach with Watco Oil, and I like the results, but I love the finishes you get.

 

[rjudoka]

Walnut finishing technique from my brother in-law, who is a third generation cabinetmaker.
After sanding, rub in a nice coat of tung oil, wait fifteen minutes and wipe off the excess, it will be a little tacky. Wait 24 hr, rub with 00000 grade steel wool and then repeat the tung oil procedure. Continue this many, many times untill the wood stops accepting the oil. Some walnut will take up to twenty coats of tung oil. It is time consuming, but well worth it. I usually just leave mine on the kitchen counter and when I make coffee in the morning, go through the process and leave it for the next day. I am working on one right now, I think I am on the 16th coat, it's easy to lose track after awhile.

rick

 

[Fred.Rowe]

I purchased some B. walnut that had been stabilized and found this changed its finishing qualities greatly. Even though black walnut is listed as a hardwood
it is not particularly hard or dence. Without a sealer and a good finish coat it loses its beauty quickly. The stabilized version is great to work with and needs no sealer and just a coat of wax to bring out its beauty. Fred

 

[Walt2]

I have never heard of any of the Black Walnut growing locally and don't remember seeing any for sale anywhere except ebay.

 

[the possum]

We have several trees' worth of black walnut lumber in the wood shed, some of which has been there for over 35 years. It still moves when freshly cut.

On my last user piece I did not seal it at all. I wanted it to aquire that characteristic patina from the oils in my skin. (even help it along with oils from the side of my nose on a hot day!) I carry it in the rain and water does not seem to affect it much any more. But I'd still like to try some of the suggestions you guys are providing.

 

[peter nap]

I do this on both knife and rifle stocks. Sand it to about 320 and give it a good dose of Teak Oil. The next day use Teak Oil and go to 400 paper to rub the oil in. Every day or two I'll do the same thing using the next finer grade of paper to 1200 or so.

The biggest problem with Black Walnut are the pores. They are hard to seal. All of the above methods will seal the pores faster than mine but I just like the results of my method better.