- Joined
- Sep 16, 2002
- Messages
- 1,577
Drying time for Tru-Oil depends on your locale. In my high desert, it takes about 4 hours. Higher humidity makes for longer drying time. To keep the hardeners from forming at the top of the bottle (and leaving fewer hardeners in the liquid remaining), simply drop in kids' marbles to raise the level until the air pocket is gone. Voila! Now to fill the grain in walnut quickly, after the initial coat of 1/2 Tru-Oil and 1/2 paint thinner to go as deeply into the wood as possible, apply a thick coat of Tru-Oil and when it gets TACKY...SMEAR it over the wood which will fill most of the grain. A second thick coating similarly applied should fill all of the grain. You can do the same with Pro-Custom Oil. Different oils will give different colors which you may prefer from time to time. Tru-Oil darkens a bit like linseed oil but is not photosensitive like linseed oil which darkens over time. Tru-Oil is 5 times more moisture resistant than linseed oil. Pro-Custom Oil tends to keep the natural color of the wood. I have an article on gunstock finishing if anyone is interested.
I'd be interested in the article, Peter.
If I'm looking for a satin finish (not glossy), is there any advantage to using Tru-Oil over Danish Oil? I've been using Tru-Oil and rubbing the gloss back to satin with sandpaper or steel wool, but if there's no advantage I'd like to save a step (ie, time) in the finishing process.
Here's an example of one I did:
