Blade Angle Preferences

17.5 is a good angle if the steel isn't the best at edge stability but you don't want something too obtuse. 15dps works great on a lot of steels. 20dps would be fine for a beater knife.
 
As low as possible. I have found most steels are stable at around 10-12 degrees per side, only a handful can do below 10 degrees - 6 degrees per side. That is with correct heat treat etc.

I tend to sharpen at 10-12 dps.
 
15dps on the sharpmaker than I usually touch up the knife on my worksharp field sharpener at 25dps as needed. Some knives end up being 20dps and touched up at 25dps as needed. Important thing is they are kept sharp, and they are typically used and abused somewhat frequently, though not as much or as badly as before. I learned in real world use once you hit the point where you can slice up receipt paper which can be easily achieved and maintained with the field sharpener alone there isn't much to gain by going sharper and it's more important with having a way with easily maintaining that level of sharpness.

I used to cut up lots of cardboard, cloth bags holding rocks (so hitting rocks in the process), cutting against metal, etc. Yeah last few jobs made me quit babying my knives and get over sharpening madness of trying to achieve the sharpest knife possible and switch to maintaining an acceptable edge quickly and easily.
 
Torrin said:
I'd heard a lot about the Edgepro especially but hadn't researched it enough. I put that at the top of the list.
This VG-10 is taking forever to reprofile, it's almost done though finally. I will be buying an Edgepro before I do another one lol.
Click to expand...

If you are looking at the EdgePro, I think that you should look at the new Wicked Edge stuff - if nothing else, just in the spirit of being a good consumer. While you can certainly drop some serious coin on the WE system, they do have a new entry level system called the Go - they are taking preorders, and it's amazingly affordable. I started sharpening some 40 years ago, on Arkansas stones, and last year I moved into a SharpMaker, then the WorkSharp Ken Onion with blade grinding attachment, and a couple weeks ago converted to the Wicked Edge.

Each system change has been incredibly worthwhile in terms of features, use, and work product output - while freehand on Arkansas stones was kinda-sorta working, the new steels were increasingly difficult to sharpen, just too hard. The SharpMaker, with the CBN coarse rods, made sharpening at least possible, and I got OK results.

The Wicked Edge is another ballgame entirely. It was easier to learn, by far, than the SharpMaker. It produces edges like I have never seen before: incredibly sharp, incredibly refined, and I have direct control over every part of the process.

The WorkSharp, followed up with stropping, did pretty darned good. But you have to (a) have the balls to essentially hold your good blades freehand against a powered belt, and things (both good and bad) happen quickly (b) learn workarounds for things that can destroy your blade in a couple breaths. I will still use the WorkSharp for some reprofiles, and also for a quick sharpening of a lower-end kitchen or utility knife.

In fact, thinking about this while typing, I'd say that if your only concern is the time it takes to reprofile, seriously consider the WorkSharp.

Good luck with whatever path you choose, and let us know how it turns out.
 
It depends what use for.
I was thinking about: what is better choice? Easier cut or durability? Take off a lot metal and stay honing every time in function of facility or remove less metal off and use a little bit more of pressure on my cuts?

I have a zwillinger chefs knife. It came with 20dps and after two barbecue party it still sharp. I mean every time I hit the knife on wood board on every meat slice it should be duller and duller.
Otherwise, a shallow edge allow to you minimal pressure to make cuts. And with a microbevel it hold its sharpness. However you have to always hone the very edge.
Saying that for hard cut like wood, carpet, my vote is taller edge like 15+<20dps
For soft cut like cardboard, paper, my vote is shallow edge with micro 15- with micro 3~5dps taller.
But I'm absolutely new on blade world. It's by my own experiences on cheap steel.
 
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