Blade Blanks for business idea

Joined
Apr 18, 2021
Messages
3
Hello everyone. I have tried searching for a few days and cannot find what I am looking for. I am making oyster shuckers and need some blanks that are about 2.75 inches long and 5/8 inch wide. People really like them and I want to produce them in a more efficient manner. I was hoping to find blanks of similar style to put into them.

Do you all have any input as to where I can buy something similar in bulk? Thanks!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/doEbUpb6xJjJpDw29

doEbUpb6xJjJpDw29
 

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Aug 20, 2004
Messages
32,818
You don't have the membership level to discuss sales and knifemaking business. However, your thread is more about where to buy stuff, so I'll leave it up. In the future, don't discuss selling or running a knife business unless you have a Knifemaker level membership.

You haven't filled out your profile so we don't know if you are in Bombay, Brussels, or Brooklyn. It will be hard to give a source without that knowledge.

I make at least a hindered oyster knives a year. The same basic profile as yours, but with a simple stainless steel bolster. I also make some with a 1.25" (30mm) round guard. I make them with straight blades and also with a bent tip ( very popular).
I use .100"(2.5mm) AEB-L and have the sheet sheared in long .75" (20mm) wide strips. I cut them off, grind a quick tang, shape the tip, and harden a large batch. I add the 45° edge bevel and clean up the surface after hardening. I have used New Jersey Steel Baron for most of the stock strips. If you want the blades cut to shape with the tang and tip, get them waterjet cut from sheet stock. In a large batch (100 or more) it isn't too expensive.

Oyster Knives 001.JPG
 
Joined
Apr 18, 2021
Messages
3
Man, great stuff already! The ones you posted are pretty amazing. I updated the profile and I promise if I go to sell I will upgrade. My honest intention is looking for a source. Thanks for the help!
 

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Aug 20, 2004
Messages
32,818
Make a group from strips of metal first and get the profile down pat before ordering a waterjet run. Posting the blade profile here may be a good idea, as we may see something that you don't.

Just to give some food for thought, unless you think you will be selling hundreds of these, waterjet is going to make then expensive. It would be best to get the steel supplier to cut strips in the width you need and shape then on the grinder.
Here is what I do:
Take the strips or 3/4" wide metal and cut i to 6" long pieces - 10 seconds per blade)
grind the 2" tang on the flat platen with a 50 grit belt. I usually take about 3/16" off each side, which leaves a roughly 3/8" wide tang - about 30 seconds a blade.
On the same belt, shape the tip - 10 to 15 seconds.
Bend the tip 3/4" back from the point on a bent-tip blade.
It takes a total of less than a minute per blade to shape them by hand.

I HT in batches of blades. I use 1950°F for AEB-L. I do about 20-30 blades at a time, or send a batch of 100 to a commercial HTer.
I put 5-10 blades in each foil packet (for AEB-L) and when I take them out I cut the end off the packet and spread them out on my aluminum quench plates, then clamp down. A couple minutes in the plates is long enough. Then, I open the next packet and do it again, etc. I dump the blades in a bucket of water to cool down as I take them off the quench plates. Then the whole batch goes in a dry-ice/alcohol bath for an hour or so. ( I usually just leave them there until the DI is evaporated.)
I temper at 400°F - two cycles, one hour per cycle.
This regime gives a very tough oyster knife blade around Rc59.
 
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