Blade coatings

jdm61

jdm61

itinerant metal pounder
Joined
Aug 12, 2005
Messages
47,357
Okay, guys, question for you. Which of the Gun Kote type finishes DOESN'T end up looking like spray on pick up truck bed liner like the stuff you see on some of the tactical knives? :D
 
If you are gonna go through the trouble to use Gunkote, why not support a guy who basically started that type of product?

Norrells Moly Resin. Pretty much the same, but the Norrells is more solvent resistant and tougher overall IMhO. Plus he's a cool guy.
 
Does the Moly Coat require baking? That seems to be the big advantage of the Duracoat stuff.
 
Duracoat
DSCN0115.jpg
 
Go with the pro's, forget that stuff you can get in a rattle-can. I have yet to see a spray-it-on, bake-in-your-wife's-oven and hope-for-the-best coating that comes anywhere close to a professionally-applied ceramic powder-coat. Ask for references. The guy who does my coated knives normally works on exhausts and chassis parts that see more beatings in a few laps than most knives see, ever. :)
 
I have used 2400 series satin finish and it is very smooth. 2400 series flat is less smooth. 3400 series ceramic flat finish ended up less smooth. These are both GunKote. Thats all i have experience with. It did take some practice to get it right, especially if you try to do the Kphos pretreatment. This just complicates things. If its something you want to be able to do, then do it yourself. Its totally doable, but unless you have experience in the field, you probably wont get professional results on the first couple tries. I've done around 20 knives and I still have to re-do the finish about half the time. Surface prep according to directions.
 
I noticed on one of the product websites, they said that for surface prep, you should either AO blast with 120 grit or lightly sand with 600 grit. What kind of final finish will each of those methods give you?
 
jdm61 said:
I noticed on one of the product websites, they said that for surface prep, you should either AO blast with 120 grit or lightly sand with 600 grit. What kind of final finish will each of those methods give you?
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I use the moly resin for AR receivers, AO blasting first and it comes out a bit gritty but pretty tough. I really can't say how long it would last on a moderate use knife. I am gonna try it soon.
 
Surprised no one has mentioned Cerakote yet....goes on smooth and if you know what you are doing you can give it a little texture if you want. Out preforms all the other spray on coatings hands down.
 
i just got back a couple of camp knives that i had ceramic powder coating in flat black. came out looking very nice,but i can't speak on how durible it is. i paid $15 per blade. the lady at the ceramic powder co. wanted me make her a
knife just like them.
 
I've had really good luck with Duracoat on firearms, but have never tried it on a knife.
I believe the finish with Duracoat is slightly glossier than some of the similar products. They do sell a flattening agent if less gloss is desired.
I use it because the company is local.
Another Duracoat example, this shotgun was lightly sanded with 400 grit, and sprayed in coyote brown (IIRC) with a preval aerosol sprayer:
IMG_8849-crop.jpg
 
jforbush said:
Surprised no one has mentioned Cerakote yet....goes on smooth and if you know what you are doing you can give it a little texture if you want. Out preforms all the other spray on coatings hands down.
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Yeah, what he said. :)
 
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