Blade Coloring?

[colu41]

I was finishing up a sheath, so I grabbed the blade and materials and took them out to the garage to drill some holes in the kydex and test fit. Well, yesterday it was pretty cold outside, as is today, so I don't know if that could be a factor or what. After I brought the blade back in to the house I noticed this brownish discoloring on it. Could this be from extremely cold weather? Or maybe is it from the alcohol, nail polish remover, and a mixture of that and the cold that maybe discolored it? It's just extremely annoying finishing the knife and having this pop up. I'm going to try and give the blade another satin finish and see if it takes this out.

 

[12345678910]

I was finishing up a sheath, so I grabbed the blade and materials and took them out to the garage to drill some holes in the kydex and test fit. Well, yesterday it was pretty cold outside, as is today, so I don't know if that could be a factor or what. After I brought the blade back in to the house I noticed this brownish discoloring on it. Could this be from extremely cold weather? Or maybe is it from the alcohol, nail polish remover, and a mixture of that and the cold that maybe discolored it? It's just extremely annoying finishing the knife and having this pop up. I'm going to try and give the blade another satin finish and see if it takes this out.

What kind of steel ?

Going from cold to warm will give you condensation moisture on the blade = possible rust

 

[colu41]

1084.... lol...could very well be possibly light surface rust. I went over it with some Ultra Fine 3M brillo pad and didn't touch it.

I need a kiln so I can start doing Stainless

I have a foot of CPM154 that I cant do anything with....

 

[colu41]

UPDATE:
Took a step down from the Fine white 3m Pads and went to the brown. Took it right off....Thanks 123 for assuring me what it was. I was trying to use chems to get it off

 

[Matt Rochester]

I wipe my carbon blades with oil to keep them from rusting. I use olive oil for my 1095 kitchen knives.

 

[colu41]

I wipe my carbon blades with oil to keep them from rusting. I use olive oil for my 1095 kitchen knives.

I may start doing this while they sit in the sheath....I got plenty of Rem Oil so. I'll just use that.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

Never store knives in their sheaths. It can cause corrosion. Sheaths are for carrying, not storage.

 

[colu41]

Never store knives in their sheaths. It can cause corrosion. Sheaths are for carrying, not storage.

Even in the house? With controlled temp and humidity? I'll take them out immediately but, didn't think this was a problem in home. Thanks!

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Even in the house? With controlled temp and humidity? I'll take them out immediately but, didn't think this was a problem in home. Thanks!

I agree, it's best to store knives outside of the sheath. "Store" is undefined though. I have knives in o1 that stay in their leather sheaths on my dresser for a couple weeks at a time and then stay in the sheath on my belt, getting removed and replaced a couple of times a day.

My wife had the humidifier running 24/7 a while back while we were sick. I about panicked when I remembered the knives, but they were just fine.

Storage outside of any sheath is a good rule of thumb, but I'm less concerned about it with the experience I've had.

I realize you are talking about kydex, but construction is a consideration too. Just to get a bit technical, a well made kydex sheath will, hopefully, not contact the blade. A leather sheath with a proper finish will repel outside influences of water. A properly lined sheath goes one step better because the cement between layers of leather will act as its own barrier. The interior can still pick up moisture, but I'd say it's minimal just sitting without any outside influences. I recommend customers don't keep the knife in the sheath more than a week in any case just to be safe.

 

[Zemapeli]

UPDATE:
Took a step down from the Fine white 3m Pads and went to the brown. Took it right off....Thanks 123 for assuring me what it was. I was trying to use chems to get it off

Interesting. This is kind of off topic, but could you tell me what abrasives you use exactly? I am restoring a Cattaraugus 225Q of mine. I reground the blade to remove heavy pitting after Naval Jelly exfoliated and exposed pits. The new grind now resembles a Mark1. I used a metal finish pad into 800grit wet/dry so far. I am trying for a mirror polish. Would you be so kind to help me out with some advice? :foot: I think I recall 2000 grit being satin/mirror? Would 2000 grit automotive wet/dry work??

 

[colu41]

Interesting. This is kind of off topic, but could you tell me what abrasives you use exactly? I am restoring a Cattaraugus 225Q of mine. I reground the blade to remove heavy pitting after Naval Jelly exfoliated and exposed pits. The new grind now resembles a Mark1. I used a metal finish pad into 800grit wet/dry so far. I am trying for a mirror polish. Would you be so kind to help me out with some advice? :foot: I think I recall 2000 grit being satin/mirror? Would 2000 grit automotive wet/dry work??

That will work. Just don't skip grits. The blade you see here was hand sanded smooth to 600, then followed by a few 400 grit straight pulls to give it that matte satin look. The biggest thing when hand sanding is completely hiding the scratch marks from each grit. (Ex: sanding with 220, until all you see is a nice flow of lines going in one direction, then to 400 in another direction and go until you erase all the 220 grit lines).

Take your time.

 

[LARRYZ10]

1084.... lol...could very well be possibly light surface rust. I went over it with some Ultra Fine 3M brillo pad and didn't touch it.

I need a kiln so I can start doing Stainless

I have a foot of CPM154 that I cant do anything with....

Colu41, If you have a piece of CPM 154 get with the program and make a blade. Just have it professionally heat treated for not too much money and have a knife that is rust resistant. I do not have a kiln because I live in a residential neighborhood and work out of my garage. My insurance does not charge me extra to have shop equipment and make knives but will not accept kilns or welding equipment under my policy. I grind CPM 154, ATS-34, 440 C, and 154 cm stainless steels for my sporting knives and have always had them heat treated by others...no problem. ( I have sold over 350 knives)

You could do this at least until you have the equipment to heat treat stainless. I understand that it is a little harder to do than carbon steel. Just my opinion. Larry

 

[colu41]

Colu41, If you have a piece of CPM 154 get with the program and make a blade. Just have it professionally heat treated for not too much money and have a knife that is rust resistant. I do not have a kiln because I live in a residential neighborhood and work out of my garage. My insurance does not charge me extra to have shop equipment and make knives but will not accept kilns or welding equipment under my policy. I grind CPM 154, ATS-34, 440 C, and 154 cm stainless steels for my sporting knives and have always had them heat treated by others...no problem. ( I have sold over 350 knives)

You could do this at least until you have the equipment to heat treat stainless. I understand that it is a little harder to do than carbon steel. Just my opinion. Larry

I may do this but, its pretty pricey sending in only 1 or 2 blades for professional HT.....well see.

 

[Grayzer86]

Are you taping the blades off when you mold the Kydex? i have had this exact issue on 1084 and 1095. What i tracked it down to was the tape i was using. The standard green painters tape or pain beige tape is fine. What caused me problems was the higher end tape with the adhesive that gels and blocks paint runs when used for its intended purpose. This different adhesive combined with the heat from the kydex molding was staining my blades and making me have to refinish. once i went back to plain cheap green painters tape, the problem was gone again.

 

[Rhinoknives1]

I wipe my carbon blades with oil to keep them from rusting. I use olive oil for my 1095 kitchen knives.

Rookie,
IF I may suggest! Do NOT use olive oil, it can turn rancid and not only make people crap like a Goose that have eaten food prepared with it once its turns it can rust the knife too! .

Only use mineral oil with any food prep knife. Now, just so you know, in much much larger quantities mineral oil is a laxative but not in these amounts and it won't ever turn rancid like an organic oil can.

 

[David Stifle]

Rookie,
IF I may suggest! Do NOT use olive oil, it can turn rancid and not only make people crap like a Goose that have eaten food prepared with it once its turns it can rust the knife too! .

Only use mineral oil with any food prep knife. Now, just so you know, in much much larger quantities mineral oil is a laxative but not in these amounts and it won't ever turn rancid like an organic oil can.

Darn, Lawrence! I season my cast iron skillets with olive oil. Guess I'd better clean it up. Would vegetable oil be okay for that purpose?

 

[elementfe]

I went to a world class knife store near my home, big seller of custom knives and importer of top drawer Japanese cutlery and asked them.
Walked out with a bitty spray bottle of "Camellia Oil."
A little research showed that it's the oil from the seeds of the tea plant, and is one of the standard cooking oils used in the Orient...sold by the barrel to restaurants.
I doubt it's much different from grapeseed oil, in practical terms.
Olive oil is a fruit oil and does go rancid- that's something that cooks should certainly be aware of, since so much of the olive oil sold in North America is the stuff that's too skunky to be sold where people know the difference.

 

[Rhinoknives1]

Darn, Lawrence! I season my cast iron skillets with olive oil. Guess I'd better clean it up. Would vegetable oil be okay for that purpose?

Yes, Olive oil is fine for that because you are taking it up to far over boiling temp of 212 degrees every time you use it.

Letting the olive oil out in the air at room temp on a knife or cutting board is the culprit. That's when things can go south.

I only use mineral oil for boards and any other wooden spoons etc or knives if you must? I make all of my culinary out of stainless.